1973 Perkins 4.107

[zeehag]

i would remove the IF NEEDED from all of your listings. that engine has sat 3 yrs--it NEEDS new rubbers and fluids. starter can be rewound/rebuilt.
your engine will outlast your kids diapers. and mebbe to college, if you use it correctly. send em to diesel school so they can make a 108 for ye to replace it.
as for power- the 107 will give the power that boat needs to get its self out of trouble, if you use it correctly. if anything, engines installed into sailing boats are not powerful enough to push a boat hull thru a good bashing.
the machine gives you the ballast needed in that part of boat, as well. many things to consider-- if it ran well 3 yrs ago-- rubber, fluids, rebuild starter and see what it does.
donot forget the fuel delivery system rubber and gaskets as well.

personally, i would go for an overhaul of engine as i did with a prior purchase. peace of mind is a real thing and is priceless.

[pdxsailordiver]

My sailboat sat on a driveway for 25 yrs. Before I bought it. I installed a battery to see if the motor would turn over. Not only did it turn over it started. 1975 westerbeke 40 with 50 hours. Moved to my driveway for 4 years.
Changed filters , hoses and fluids. Boat has beenough in water for 12 years. During that time I have had injectors rebuilt, new fuel pump and injector pump rebuilt. Now has 800 hours on it. Runs like a top, every summer up and down the Washington coast. Last summer moved it to Olympia.
Fix the starter and use it don't do a bunch of work that may not be needed. Your boat is on a lake.
Enjoy.




Sent from my SM-T530NU using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by danard

Have a friend who has a 4-107 that he is putting back together. It is fresh water cooled and has a vertical heat exchanger, guessing early 70's.


Does anyone have, or know where to get, an outline or pictures of the hose placement? The manual does not show the cooling system broke down this way.


Thank you for any help.

Just plumb it up so it runs counterflow. That means the hot water from the engine goes in one end and the cold seawater goes in the other.

[danard]

Thank you

[westwinds]

If the engine has a heat exchanger be sure to check the coolant level. If direct raw water cooled, make sure you see water going into the water lift muffler at the elbow off the exhaust manifold. With both types of cooling do not crank engine very long unless the belt is off the raw water pump to prevent muffler from filling with water and causing hydraulic lock which can destroy the engine. Also, if you put a bunch of oil in the cylinders, do not get so much that again you have a hydraulic lock. A diesel combustion chamber is small. If the injectors are out with oil placed in the cylinders, I would spin the engine with the starter to blow out excess oil. It will spray out pretty good so maybe you want to put a towel over the injector holes. You could also have the injectors tested for good spray pattern.

About the starter, you could take it off and have it tested. It might just be a battery problem, or a battery cable connector that is corroded. Use a volt meter set on near a one volt range to check across connectors while cranking the engine. You want near zero volts. I have an idea the starter is good because a boat engine does not start and stop like a delivery truck, not enough starter use to wear out.

I would check belts for cracks underneath and hoses for being too hard or cracks. You will need a new battery because the old one will be sulfated just sitting for three years. It will be discharged and not able to be recharged. When you buy a new battery, take a sensitive volt or multimeter along. You want the voltage to be near 12.8 volts sitting on the shelf. 12.4 is half discharged and will most likely be sulfated, unable to take a compete charge. Put the new battery on a charger to make sure it is all the way charged up. Change engine oil, and if there is a heat exchanger, maybe the coolant. Make sure you measure the coolant when you put it in as the thermostat may have complete enough seal to have air in the cooling system.

You could have the engine oil checked for engine wear. Have a leak down compression check done, or do it yourself to make sure the rings and valves are in good condition.

Check diesel tanks for water. Sometimes when you buy diesel, you are also getting water mixed with it which can cause biological growth in the diesel and if there is enough water, cause rusting of cylinder walls freezing the engine from turning.

[danard]

Thanks. Think the forum is having some problems. I am seeking a diagram or a pic of the water hoses, fresh and raw, for a 410. There is another fellow with other problems.

May also be something I'm doing wrong.

[GordMay]

➥ http://alberg37.org/Project%20DB/Per...4-108parts.pdf

➥ http://alberg37.org/Project%20DB/Van...20Plumbing.pdf

➥ http://alberg37.org/Project%20DB/Van...r_Bulletin.pdf

➥ http://alberg37.org/Project%20DB/PER...INS_MANUAL.pdf

[danard]

Thanks so much Gordmay for all your time and effort. this will help a lot.

Sincerely,
Gordon

[JSSailem]

These may help.

Link to the Workshop Manual.
http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/Pe...p%20Manual.pdf

Note the 4.108 and 4.107 are essentially the same engine.

Here is a listing of parts from a 1975 document.
http://alberg37.org/Project%20DB/Per...4-108parts.pdf

[JSSailem]

Sammy
Had a cousin with a 4.107 on a tractor that he parked one winter. 3 years later after clearing the blackberry bushes that had taken it over, attached a new battery, gave it a drink of fresh diesel, turned the key. Fired right up. Drove it to his pickup and pulled it out of the ditch.

The 4.107 has a reputation like a timex. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking.

[danard]

Thanks for your help

[Dirk Williams]

I literally just finished my 4-107m we thought it was a 108, hell it might be. Anyways, I was really really concerned, asked for help here on this site. Many who have posted above, were fantastic help.

I've got two one hour runs and two half hours runs on her, on a test bench. She purrs like a kitten.

I had my starter rebuilt, cost, like 50.00 bucks. I had my fuel pump rebuilt, I had purchased injectors, but the pump man said the injectors were already like new.

Once you get into the 4-107 or 108 their not bad to,work on. I did the work myself, and was freaked out about it, never worked on a diesel motor before. No that I took it apart, and hand cleaned every part, every nut every bolt, I have a pretty good understanding of what does what, and when.

My rationale was out at sea, ain't nobody their to do the job for,you, so, better to learn on a work bench then 1000 miles, or 20 miles off the coast.

The motors simple. I would caution you on so,e of the Perkins motor manuals, they suck. I ended up spending hours perusing the net, and downloading multiple manuals onto my notebook. Into the iBook section.

I'll be installing the motor in the next couple weeks. Easy Pesy.

Also I purchased most of my parts from TADiesel, I also like the prices from a gentleman in England, I just didn't have time to wait, as I didn't know how long things take to ship from England.

I,got,ripped off big time by the diesel,Doctor, the company name escapes me. They got me for aroumd a grand, still got all the WRONG parts they sent in a box. I'll,find so,Rome who has a 4-108 amd hook me up with this stuff, pay it forward.

Good luck, don't over think it, I tend to,do that, and it's a buzz kill on the experience. The learning oppertunity of doing it yourself is a win win .

Hope this helps you.

Merry Christmas to all.

Dirk