A rather strange engine problem

[Shaneesprit]

Originally Posted by JoeRobertJr

I'd start by checking (and cleaning) the starter solenoid connections. If the problem persists, then check for voltage at the starter solenoid control wire when you turn the key.

That’s what I would go for - not strange at all - prefect symptoms of a bad starter solenoid.

[Kettlewell]

First thing to try is cleaning and tightening the battery cable connections to the solenoid and the starter. I went through all sorts of stuff trying to fix a similar problem and it turned out to be corroded and loose connections to the battery.

[NNBill]

I have some experience with the Nanni/Toyota marine engine no crank issue. The three issues that I found where (1) Defective ignition switch, (2) Green crusties in and around the axillary start relay back by the bell housing, and (3) Corroded wires at the crimp terminals on the neutral safety switch on the side of the Borg Warner Velvet drive transmission. This was on two engines in one boat over a 5 year period.

[rpackard]

If you don't even hear the solenoid click when you hit the start it is probably the neutral switch mounted on your transmission. You may not be placing the shift lever never exactly into neutral. Jiggle the shift lever when trying to start.

[Henryh]

I have two Nanni 3.21 engines 2007 vintage. The wiring loom is NOT tinned wire and the connectors in the loom are old type unsealed automotive. Rather ridiculous for a marine engine. I had a similar problem and the cause was the rather thin wire that goes to the solenoid was corroded. I had to run a new wire to the solenoid. Of course it was the engine furtherest from the engine controls.
Could be worth checking.

[jipcho]

I had a similar problem on the Wild Coast of South Africa. I was on my first passage (from Richards Bay bound for Cape Town) since overhauling my Volvo Penta engine. Approaching the entrance to New London in order to escape approaching bad weather, the engine wouldn't turn over. I knocked on the solenoid (a trick I learned from another cruiser, and she eventually started up. I contacted a marine "sparkie" (electrician) in New London who was recommended to me, and told him that I think I need to replace the solenoid on the starter. He replied, not so fast, and proceeded to check and tighten all of the many wires and cables connected to the ignition systems. Afterwards he told me that he found a couple of loose connections in the negative wiring. He explained further that sailors often incorrectly assume that the positive wire and cables are most important in electrical circuitry. He maintained that the negatives are as or even more likely to be the cause of an electrical problem. I have taken his words to heart, and never had that problem again in the years since that time.

[HARVESTMOON]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

In addition to the cables going to the starter and the ground cable needing to be clean at the engine connection, look to see if there are any plastic multi pin connectors from the 'dashboard' to the engine in the wiring loom. I had this problem with a non Nanni engine. It sometimes would not react to the key switch at all. On the back of the engine was a 9 pin connector in the wire loom. Opened it up and it was fairly clean but did have some light corrosion on the pins. Cleaned them up and sealed the connector and it never failed again. This type of connector would likely be near the engine or near the dash module.

I assume when you say "it would not start" it makes no reaction at all? No solenoid clik etc? "But sometimes it’s just dead silence when I turn the key."

Try a squirt of WD 40 into your ignition key socket.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by HARVESTMOON

Try a squirt of WD 40 into your ignition key socket.

NO! Not WD 40! That stuff is sticky gooey gunk in a solvent. When the solvent evaporates the crud remains.

For electrical use contact cleaner and dielectric grease.

BTW WD 40 should not be used as a lubricant for the same reasons. Use oil or grease, not glue. I used to use it on my bike chain after cleaning. I was out once and used Singer oil. It took 20 minutes off my 30 mile ride’s best time.

[rslifkin]

For cleaning / lubing locks or moving electrical components, I'm a big fan of Deoxit D5. It's a good electronics cleaner that leaves a very slight lubricating film behind.