Advice on Lugger / John Deere Engine Problem

[Yachts66]

Engine is running fine, then just stops. Check fuel, no problem. Check filters, no problem. Prime engine with hand pump, engine fires immediately, runs for just a few seconds and stops. I suspect the problem is the fuel solenoid. You know, the gizzmo that shuts off the fuel when you turn off the key so the engine stops; that gizzmo. Local mechanic claims this is a very expensive fix because you have to "re-set" the timing when you replace this solenoid. I'm not so sure, but then again, I'm not a certified mechanic, just the back yard variety. Can any of you arm chair types offer words of wisdom here? This is a 4cyl 80's model Lugger marine diesel, which is a modified John Deere engine. Nothing fancy, mechanical injection, etc.

Much thanks,

Thomas

[SaltyMonkey]

Stupid questions:

- Any chance you can reroute around solenoid and see what that FX might be? seems a bit strange e.g. timing reset on new solenoid?

- Fuel you say is fine e.g. clean and no buggies in there? Did you try a fresh fuel source?

SOLENOID - here is something around the lines of bypassing I found online:

Hello Phil:

The Problem May be a Sticking Valve. The Fuel Shut Off Valve is Designed to Shut Off the Flow of Gas to the Primary Jet when the Engine is Not Running and Help Prevent the Carburetor and Crankcase from Flooding with Gas when the Engine is Not in Use. I Just had a Craftsman with the Same Problem and the Exhaust Valve was Sticking Due to Carbon Around the Valve Stem. I have Not Seen or Heard of the Fuel Solenoid Causing this Type of Problem, but Anything is Possible. Here is How to Check the Solenoid and Eliminate it as the Cause. Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 3/4" Long. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid. ***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES*** Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Carburetor fuel solenoid, solenoid, exhaust valve

[SaltyMonkey]

I think he was referring to people who are online in their chairs reading this rather than the variety who dont have boats and are slowly going MAD saving their money for another one!

[Chief Engineer]

Can you send a picture?

[Yachts66]

Thank you. The problem is, this is a diesel engine, there is no "carburetor" and if I bipass the solenoid getting the engine to stop would be problematic. Great idea for a gas engine though.

Regards,

Thomas

[SaltyMonkey]

Yacht66 - I was aware, but I thought you might just be able to cut the fuel off in some other way inline to stop it when you were done testing.

[Yachts66]

In this case it would be difficult in the short term. Sad to say, but true.

Thomas

[Mark Zarley]

Timing will not change because of a fuel solenoid. Solenlid is an electrical (12v or whatever) valve. Don't see Manual pumping getting fuel "by" this faulty closed valve. But I do see Your manuel valve supplying fuel to the engine(if it is a piston pump) if your mech. pump(diaphram) has failed.

[shakey doug]

Try running power direct to soleniod via light weight jumper this will help eliminate any pre circuit bugs.Disconnect existing wiring first, timing alteration? new one on me.

[marc2012]

You should hear it click when excited with key or jumper wire.marc

[iwsteel]

I had the intermittent run problem on a 4 cyl rotary injection pump motor.
when the motor got hot it would quit. ended up being the fuel stop sel.
i called several service shops and the part ranged from $60-80 usd.

i found the Flag Diesel site and they were unbelievably cheap. Plus great service. Ended up getting two stop sel's for $20 usd(great to have a spare)

during diagnostic process one mechanic suggested that i take out the spring between the plunger and sel to see if the inj pump was ok. well i did that and it started. but no way to kill the engine. lol Ended up unscrewing sel and that killed it, but was a little messy cause fuel squirted everywhere. you can also stop them by plugging the return line.

[S&S]

Originally Posted by Yachts66

. Local mechanic claims this is a very expensive fix because you have to "re-set" the timing when you replace this solenoid.
Much thanks,

Thomas

Local mechanic is trying to take you to the cleaners.

[Stillraining]

Originally Posted by S&S

Local mechanic is trying to take you to the cleaners.

Thanks for posting that SS

[SaltyMonkey]

Along those lines a quick question.

Does it shut down at the same consistent rate each time?

ex:

Turn on engine
2 minutes pass
Engine shuts down

wait interval - right away vs longer period

Turn on engine again
2 minutes pass (consistent)
Engine shuts down again

[Yachts66]

"Run" is a generous term here little monkey. She fires briefly (as in less than a second) then stops. I think when we hand pump a little fuel is getting into one or more of the cylinders which is what's firing. Once that fuel is burned there is not more following. Now mechanic thinks the injector pump may be bad. Feeling at this point I need a new mechanic! LOL <sigh>

Thomas