Advice Sought. Engine Seized after installing Injection pump

[DougR]

Very interesting thread.....
Here's my two cents worth.....

As you described it, I think the engine seized from lack of lubrication. You said "The engine ran at high revs, and then stalled at idle". Well, that stall was the seizure, and it occurred from poor lubrication. It didn't seize while sitting for a week, and it didn't seize from something getting in the gear mesh.(gear mesh issues happen with a bang)

If it were mine I would unbolt the gearbox and slide the engine a bit forward to eliminate the torsional damper possibility, and then pull the engine out of the boat, or at least into the saloon.

Drop the oil pan and look for a blued conrod cap, or blue or straw color along side of a conrod on the crank. It may be a main bearing, but rod bearings usually go first.
This will also give you a look at the lower cylinder bores to check for scuffing and the underside of the pistons and skirts for discoloration. If all looks good below, then pull the head....
Good luck!

[Jack C]

Originally Posted by Sailshabby

(You realize you’ve got dozens of interested sailors looking over your shoulder, each feeling your pain, but absolutely riveted, right? &#128521

I really appreciate the help and suggestions from the people on this forum. I am learning at each step.

Suggestions and questions are welcome. Tomorrow hopefully removing the rocker. I think I'll start posting pictures.

And its not painful, its getting fascinating. Keeping the mind and body healthy through boat yoga and avoiding getting a Corona variant.

[skipperpete]

I’m puzzled why you only added “ 1 litre of oil to the valve cover” after draining the entire oil pan and refitting the banjo bolt, that amount of oil wouldn’t reach the suction screen on the oil pickup.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by Jack C

....avoiding getting a Corona variant.

Believe I'd be looking for a Corona variant, say a Dos Equis, or a Red Stripe, or, god help us all, my favorite, a Busch...

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Believe I'd be looking for a Corona variant, say a Dos Equis, or a Red Stripe, or, god help us all, my favorite, a Busch...

A Busch?!

Now I know you're a Salty Dawg!

It's 30 degrees in Toronto today (That's 90+ degrees Farenheit), so I'll take a very, very cold Corona - with lime, please!

LW77

[FlyingScot]

How did you know the RPM?
Engine is rated for 3200 continuous and 3600 RPM for short periods.
One of my two, the tach reads 4000 and the other much less than 3600 but they read high and low across the RPM range as verified with a photo tachometer.

[Firefly44]

Jack C - any further insight on this? wondering the latest status....

Dave in Charlotte Harbor

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

I’m puzzled why you only added “ 1 litre of oil to the valve cover” after draining the entire oil pan and refitting the banjo bolt, that amount of oil wouldn’t reach the suction screen on the oil pickup.

I had missed that. I think what you said early on Pete and what Doug said too really makes the most sense now, not a jammed gear.

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by Jack C

Tomorrow, hopefully removing the rocker.
I think I'll start posting pictures.

JACK!

Yer killing us! What is going ON? Where are your pictures?

Originally Posted by Jack C

...and avoid getting a Corona variant.

Yeah, but what kind of beer do you drink...
LittleWing77

[double u]

...patience is a virtue...JACK!!!!!!!!!!
(this is no way to leave decent folks on tenterhooks!!!)

[Jack C]

Thanks for all your help and patience or lack thereof. I am waiting for a new gear puller set from Amazon. Broke the last Chinese junk.

Meantime I finally got my Mayflower 48 to the state where I feel comfortable taking her out of the slip and out of the marina.

The Tel Aviv Marina has an entrance that makes an engine failure into an adventure. If you don't make the turn or don't have forward motion after the turn, the swells or waves hit you sideways pushing you into 4' of water where you join the surfers. see https://www.telaviv-marina.com/
From the breakwater looking west there is a 1,000+ mile fetch making for interesting conditions when the wind has been blowing for a while.

As I inherited 100 gallons of unknown diesel fuel, I designed and built a redundant filter system which also includes a polishing bypass circuit and can feed and return to either of 2 tanks. There is also feed and return to a future day tank.

So I did 40 hours of polishing before a shakedown last Saturday.

I also made marks on the binnacle so that I can see rudder position because there are 4 wheel rotations lock to lock.

Back to the engine problem. It's been 32 deg C with high humidity so sailing with a breeze has been a distraction that overtakes boat yoga, even with AC.

Next is a visit to see if the anti corrosion oil may have freed the pistons.

At the same time, release the rocker to eliminate stuck valves being the issue.

The puller set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is arriving on or before August 24th. 8 more days. It is needed if I decide to check jammed gears.

My feeling is seized pistons. So after removing the rocker, I can remove the head and check the pistons.

Will be my first time removing head. Anyone have suggestions? I have the service manual and a torque wrench so I don't envisage problems.

Will the head gasket be reusable? Do I need high temperature gasketing gunk when I re-install?

[Jack C]

Originally Posted by Jack C

Thanks for all your help and patience or lack thereof. I am waiting for a new gear puller set from Amazon. Broke the last Chinese junk.

Meantime I finally got my Mayflower 48 to the state where I feel comfortable taking her out of the slip and out of the marina.

The Tel Aviv Marina has an entrance that makes an engine failure into an adventure. If you don't make the turn or don't have forward motion after the turn, the swells or waves hit you sideways pushing you into 4' of water where you join the surfers. see https://www.telaviv-marina.com/
From the breakwater looking west there is a 1,000+ mile fetch making for interesting conditions when the wind has been blowing for a while.

As I inherited 100 gallons of unknown diesel fuel, I designed and built a redundant filter system which also includes a polishing bypass circuit and can feed and return to either of 2 tanks. There is also feed and return to a future day tank.

So I did 40 hours of polishing before a shakedown last Saturday.

I also made marks on the binnacle so that I can see rudder position because there are 4 wheel rotations lock to lock.

Back to the engine problem. It's been 32 deg C with high humidity so sailing with a breeze has been a distraction that overtakes boat yoga, even with AC.

Next is a visit to see if the anti corrosion oil may have freed the pistons.

At the same time, release the rocker to eliminate stuck valves being the issue.

The puller set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is arriving on or before August 24th. 8 more days. It is needed if I decide to check jammed gears.

My feeling is seized pistons. So after removing the rocker, I can remove the head and check the pistons.

Will be my first time removing head. Anyone have suggestions? I have the service manual and a torque wrench so I don't envisage problems.

Will the head gasket be reusable? Do I need high temperature gasketing gunk when I re-install?

Pics now attached

[LittleWing77]

Okay, you're off the hook - for now.

Thank you for the update and pictures!
LittleWing77

[Compass790]

I've had good results re-using head gasket coating both sides with Loctite 518 flange sealant or 515 master gasket I cant remember which one is superseded. Not cheap but way cheaper than yanmar/ Bukh/Volvo gaskets

Even works with some of the fibrous material ripped off.
Little wing I've been quiet on this thread as my time resource was fully occupied trying to get djousset thru the bleeding & leak prevention routines.

[jimbunyard]

Was just about to post this little bit of (possible) info I gathered as a spur --- though I asssumed Jack was just busy with other stuff...

Given the circumstances we've been appraised of, there is a good possibility that Pete and Doug are correct. But again, we go back to ascertaining the degree of 'siezedness' with some sort of 'positive rotation device'. It is least likely that the pistons siezed without some sort of overheating excursion...

If one of the rod bearings is siezed, the bit you wind up turning the engine won't likely cause any further damage, of course the end result will be the same; pulling the engine.

Doug's plan of attack probably makes the most sense efficiency-wise; if the engine was running good before, the head and gasket are good; no need to remove them. If the pistons are siezed, one has to pull the engine anyway to get at the conrod bearings.

As for my 'obsession' with getting the engine to turn before removal, there is a chance that it's not really stuck, and I have enough (perhaps misplaced) confidence in my diagnostic abilities to determine if it can be run as-is. And I'm lazy, don't like doing things unless they're necessary.


Oh yeah, the potential good news. Was checking what the prices would be for what would probably be the most expensive individual part if Doug's and Pete's analysis proved correct, the oil pump, and was surprised that the inner and outer rotor combined could be had for less than 100.00 US.

Turns out that the engine in a Cub Cadet mower uses the same oil pump; the number in the 3YM30 parts catalog is the same as for the tractor motor. I suspect that the motor is the same, though you'd have to find someone more knowledgeable than me to verify that. As far as I could tell, the Cub motor is a 3TNV76. Or you might be able to just use the 3YM part numbers.

There are many aftermarket internal engine parts available for the 3TNV76 motors.

Of course, this is only an 'advantage' if there is, as is often the case, a substantial difference in 'marine' and 'ag implement' prices.

And if that price difference matters to you.

Head gasket isn't reusable, you don't typically use sealant on the gasket, but sometimes some is needed around certain bolts and other areas. The manual and/or packaging the gasket comes in should tell you if that is the case.

Otherwise, patience on disassembly, cleanliness on reassembly. If your memory isn't too good take pictures before disassembly. Reused parts need to go back in the same hole they came out of; bags or little boxes come in handy, sometimes I use egg cartons.

Keep us appraised of your progress --- guess I didn't have to say that...