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Free as a Bird · 22-06-2013, 17:07

Any thoughts or maintenance hints on my old but trusty motor would be appreciated. Peter. Australia.

boden36 · 22-06-2013, 19:59

From personal experience of the 17C (and assuming the 17D to be similar), treat the gearbox gently ( the cones wear and slip)and keep a good eye on the shaft seals of the water pump">raw water pump (If they leak, it pumps water into the engine sump).
I have also heard , but not experienced, that condensation in the rocker covers can cause valve spring rusting and subsequent breakage.
Also the ring seals in the engine cooling pipework can be fiddly.

Regards,
Richard

Free as a Bird · 22-06-2013, 22:37

Thanks Richard. MD17D is evidently very similar to your previous C version, from what I can see.
I had the metal support for the coolant reservoir break. Welded up, good as new!
Runs well.
Puff of blue smoke after power is applied after idling, but doesn't seem to use much oil under normal running.
I run it around 2,000 to 2,400 rpm depending on my noise tolerance on the day.
My long standing Volvo Penta mechanic is retiring so it is time for me to take a far more proactive interest in my engine!
Peter.

Kokanee · 30-11-2013, 05:48

Hey Peter,
I've got an old MD17D as well. Still getting to know it, but its treated me well so far. The starter motor has been my only failure so far. $3000 for a new one from Bosch, but I got it fully rewound and rebuilt locally for a good price.

I noticed you asking on another thread about it being a Puegot engine. Sorry but the the MD17 series are the last of the 100% Volvo Volvo's. I know your frustration about parts. If mine wasn't running so well I'd swap her out. I don't push mine too hard, usually keep her below 2000 rpm and so far so good.

I see you are from Adelaide. There was a used MD17 + gearbox up for sale
from the Volvo Penta dealer in Kilkenny a while back, if you need major components. I was considering buying it just for the spares.

Do you have any photo's of you boat posted on the forum? She sounds like a beauty. I'm moored down on the Pat. PM me if you want to come by for a beer anytime.

Steve

El Pinguino · 30-11-2013, 11:26

A brilliant motor, mine is a very late production one - 1986 - which at a guess has done over 10k hours.....The hourmeter stopped about 12 years ago at 5k...

It sounds as if you have a FW cooled one with the Volvo header tank at the back of the engine. Mine has a 3rd party one ( Bowman) on the bulkhead adjacent to the engine. This was fitted at birth so I don't know if there is shortcoming in the Volvo system or not but FW systems seem to have been an issue with a few Volvo designs over the years.

You probably have a Volvo FW circ pump on it ( see my photo... the pump has a 'Yanmar Grey' pulley on it.)

They have a rubber/ceramic seal set up. Sooner or later the rubber seal will fail and that will lead to tears.

Let me tell you a little story... mine failed ( both seal and bearings) a long way from town when motoring in a glassy calm. New one aquired from the Volvo agent in Pto Montt... failed right out of the box.. replaced uner warranty.. next one gave a few hours and then failed... Volvo Chile refused to replace as not fitted by their man.... taken by a friend to Finland and changed under warranty... failed at under 50 hours.. new one posted from the UK... failed... 'nother one supplied by JJ Marinecraft in Melb ... failed within hours. My man at JJMarinecraft had the wit.. rather than sending it back to Brisbane... to have it rebuilt by a local pump shop at no cost to me...

That was 8 years and many many hours ago...still OK but I do carry a spare one. I would suggest a bit of preventative maintenance on your part.
Ditto the lift pump... rubber diaphragm failed on mine.

The starter motor? left handed... so not easy to find... buy a spare one...my spare one came off an MD17D that was being scrapped.

Depending on how long you are planning to keep the engine it may pay to buy a head gasket kit and put it aside.

Thats about it really.... and if not done already I would suggest changing all the hoses... it was a hose failure issue ( hardening and leaking at a termination) on mine that lead to me needing the head gasket kit....
Cheers
Frank

Viking Sailor · 30-11-2013, 19:04

Hi All,

I have a MD-17C/D that needs some work. One problem that I have is the front of the engine is not very visible. At some point I may need to use get a socket on the nut that holds the flywheel on. Can I impose on someone to let me know the size socket needed for the flywheel nut?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

El Pinguino · 02-12-2013, 16:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viking Sailor

At some point I may need to use get a socket on the nut that holds the flywheel on. Can I impose on someone to let me know the size socket needed for the flywheel nut?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

I'm away from my boat just now so can't help. However I think your engine will be out of the boat before you start thinking about pulling the flywheel.

You may find this handy if you haven't already seen it. http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Vo...1C_D_17C_D.pdf

If you are planning to pull your engine to bits it may pay to try and get a few spare oil pipes as shown at 99.

Cheers, Frank

Geoff54 · 02-12-2013, 17:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viking Sailor

Hi All,

I have a MD-17C/D that needs some work. One problem that I have is the front of the engine is not very visible. At some point I may need to use get a socket on the nut that holds the flywheel on. Can I impose on someone to let me know the size socket needed for the flywheel nut?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

Strange that you should ask that, because I measured mine last time I was there. I couldn't figure out of it was 55 or 56mm. I have a 55mm socket so I'll take that with me and try it next I go to the boat. If you haven't already got a definite answer before then, I'll post the results here. Might be a couple of weeks.

Viking Sailor · 03-12-2013, 00:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Pinguino

I'm away from my boat just now so can't help. However I think your engine will be out of the boat before you start thinking about pulling the flywheel.

You may find this handy if you haven't already seen it. http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Vo...1C_D_17C_D.pdf

If you are planning to pull your engine to bits it may pay to try and get a few spare oil pipes as shown at 99.

Cheers, Frank

Hi Frank,

Thank you for responding. I am not planning on pulling the engine just yet. My problem is that I have a hard time getting to the flywheel to turn the crankshaft while doing valve adjustments. I can reach down and feel the flywheel nut and it looks like I could get a socket wench on it to help position the crankshaft to TDC for each cylinder.

Best regards,

Paul

Viking Sailor · 03-12-2013, 01:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff54

Strange that you should ask that, because I measured mine last time I was there. I couldn't figure out of it was 55 or 56mm. I have a 55mm socket so I'll take that with me and try it next I go to the boat. If you haven't already got a definite answer before then, I'll post the results here. Might be a couple of weeks.

Hi,

I can feel the nut but there is no way I could measure it. I hope that it is 55mm for your sake. However, based upon the fact that in the shop manual all torque spec's are referenced to even sized nuts, my guess would be that it is 56mm. If I find out what size nut it is before you or Frank do I will be sure to post it here.

Best regards,

Paul

Geoff54 · 21-03-2014, 12:22

I completely forgot about this - Sorry!

Just for the record, it's 55mm

keta · 11-08-2014, 12:26

Volvo MD17C or MD11C - Oil Change
The owner's manual that came with my md17c includes the md11c. The transmission and engine use the same specification oil. 20W motor oil for a diesel(CD) above 50 degrees F. 10W for colder than that. The town I live in is marine/industrial/DIY oriented and even so, no store is selling either of those anymore. For some reason, Volvo did not want 30W in the engine or trans. To match that as well as possible, i have 5W-20 in the trans. I would use 10W-20 if it was commonly available. It is not diesel type oil but the trans is not subject to the harsh chemicals in the engine that makes the special motor oil necessary. When i worked on hydraulics in a shipyard the conventional wisdom was that 10W engine oil is a better lubricant than 10W hydraulic fluid or ATF. The closest oil for the engine i can find is 10W-30.

unbusted67 · 28-05-2019, 18:06

I just found out today that my MD17C has bricked (ie it turned itself into a brick of rust) while being stored. Somehow water got into the inside of the engine and caused the fuel pump to seize up. The boat then sat stored for a couple of years with that oil and water slurry and it must have gotten to the bearings. I bought the boat without the engine working thinking I'd just have to change the fuel pump but now have a seized engine. I can't get it to advance with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut nor with the battery cranking the engine. Such a drag. Anyone re power from an MD17? Any easy drop in replacement?

El Pinguino · 29-05-2019, 02:35

I still have an MD17D.... however my research suggests that Beta would be the way to go.
Seems they can supply mounts that will adapt the Beta to your engine beds...