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Old 06-01-2011, 15:27   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Therapy View Post
I'll keep smoking..............

Oh yea.

I have a Westerbeke 30 B three and if I don't open the throttle a little it starts just fine but shakes like all hell for a couple of seconds which makes me think I will wear out mounts and alignment pretty quick.

So I start it and then drop the throttle immediately and it sounds happy.

I am happy.

Do you guys think I will stay that way?
"Run the engine at enough REVS for it to run smoothly until it sees a little temperature. (you will know as it will tell you it is happy) Use enough throttle for it to start easily in the environment your in."

As you replied to my comments you must have missed this line
Otherwise I missed the point
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Old 06-01-2011, 15:57   #62
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Originally Posted by meyermm View Post
"Run the engine at enough REVS for it to run smoothly until it sees a little temperature. (you will know as it will tell you it is happy) Use enough throttle for it to start easily in the environment your in."

As you replied to my comments you must have missed this line
Otherwise I missed the point

I was sorta replying to all of them I thought.

But I guess I will remain happy.
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Old 06-01-2011, 17:23   #63
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Originally Posted by Mark Zarley View Post
In the genset motor dept. I sure wish mine had a manuel throttle so on start-up it would run in the 800 rpm range instead of a constant 1800. Let it warm up as usual and before switching it "on" set the manuel throttle wide open at it's governed speed. Because of the "manuel" effort I would visit my genset on a better schedule and I am sure I would be rewarded with longer engine life

You need to make sure the genset isn't starting under load. At 1800RPM that's almost a full spin. The AC house breaker and the inverter should be shut off. The genset should start up then set into idle mode with no load. Start with everything in the off position then start the genny; if you have a normal idle then something is connected directly to it creating a load. In most cases it's the water heater or instrumentation.
Good Luck
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Old 06-01-2011, 17:46   #64
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The best way to start a cold diesel ( cold weather wise ) without using starting fluid , is to turn engine over a few times @ 1/2 throttle , then let the engine stand for 30 t0 45 seconds , then lower throttle to low to just a bump above and start . If the engine tries but doesn't stay running repeat procedure . A diesel runs by super-heating the fuel vapor and when the engine and fuel are cold it takes longer to vaporize the fuel . It is never good to run a cold engine at a high rpm ( gas or diesel ) unless your a diesel mechanic like me and then it is good for people in my line of work .
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Old 06-01-2011, 19:05   #65
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Wow 65 posts on how to start a diesel and lots so different.
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Old 06-01-2011, 19:15   #66
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Hey you can do what they do in Alaska and add a little gasoline to the fuel mix. What the hey, just pour a cup or two down the chute and throw a lit cigarette down there; and it'll save some wear and tear on the starter.
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Old 06-01-2011, 19:36   #67
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Hey Simon,

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonV View Post
Wow 65 posts on how to start a diesel and lots so different.
It does seem a bit excessive but ...

I read the user manual for the 4-108M and was amazed to see the instruction about starting on WOT. Never mind throttling back down right after ignition, I couldn't bring myself to start the engine at full screaming speed even if I were able to yank the throttle back right away, so I've been starting at just over idle, adjusting the RPMs to get just over shaking speed until warmed up. But I kept wondering if I was doing damage by not following the manual.

I also used to use the cold start pre-heat as if it were a choke; turn it on whenever starting cold. Then someone pointed out that it probably wasn't needed so I tried without and found out they were right. I had no idea that using the cold start assist meant not just heating the air intake but also dripping fuel onto (?) a heated plug with no flame arrester.

I'm glad the topic came up and got the treatment, I sure learned a little but important stuff.



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Old 06-01-2011, 19:44   #68
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Show me where it says full throttle start or WOT.
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Old 06-01-2011, 20:07   #69
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Actually I thought the Thread Question was funny....
Do you turn the key at......
500 RPM
600RPM
800RPM
Hilarious...... but I had to contribute.... seemed fun to keep it going......ROFL
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Old 06-01-2011, 22:53   #70
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Originally Posted by Seahunter View Post
Show me where it says full throttle start or WOT.
Do you have access to the workshop manual for the 4.108M, 4.107M, 4.99M engines ? Those are the marine Perkins engines and they are covered in that one manual (at least).

That is where you will find, for cold or warm engine "with the throttle in the fully open position turn the starter switch ..." in section C.2

Let me know if you need more help finding the information and I'll send you a copy of the manual.

Thanks,



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Old 07-01-2011, 05:03   #71
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Quote:
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Wow 65 posts on how to start a diesel and lots so different.
You can trust the information in my post #37--I think, maybe, perhaps, not sure now.
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Old 07-01-2011, 05:56   #72
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OK, now that we are all in agreement on how to start a diesel, how soon do you put it in gear and run it up to cruising rpm??
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:12   #73
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OK, now that we are all in agreement on how to start a diesel, how soon do you put it in gear and run it up to cruising rpm??
As soon as possible if I'm dragging.... 5-10sec's after she fires....
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:43   #74
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I've located the discrepancies in question. There are 5 revisions of the 4-108 manuals not including 3 revisions of the "M" manuals. All older manuals with the "HS" and "O" (operate) indicators on the start switch as well as the intermediate models with "H" and "HS", require the accelerator to be advanced momentarily to the full open at start. Both and all versions of these manuals were superseded by the final version which only has "START" and "Off".
On models that still have or the added feature of Heat Start or Heat (either manifold heater or glow plugs) there IS a requirement to prime the intake manifold with fuel prior to actually starting the engine. It must be noted that this was not a normal feature on North American engines. However over the years with the thousands of engines built and used all over the world, the 4108 took on a life of its own and was adapted for use in different climates as well as different modes. It appears the 4108, the 4-108 or the 4-108M are as individual as the there are boats and owners.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:51   #75
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As soon as possible if I'm dragging.... 5-10sec's after she fires....
It was only one second from start to firewall when the pirates were closing in on me in the Gulf of Aden, but I was wondering about the more leisurely starting situations--how long do people think the engine should warm up before you put significant load on it. I usually wait till the engine water has hit about 150 degrees, or about 5-7 minutes.
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