Bad Mechanic - Volvo MD2010

[Ex-Calif]

Well I am putting the parts list together and here is what I am looking at so far.

Exhaust Mixer - $450
Engine Mounts - $250
Fuel Injectors - $290 (exchange)
Saildrive Sealing Rings - $350
Total - $1340

There are a few other pieces I am going to get including thermostat, rubber hose, maybe some more bits for the battery cables, some paint and supplies. Plus tax and shipping. I reckon I am looking at $1,600 at least in parts.

I'll get the parts on order tonight and hopefully they get here by the weekend or early next week.

Boat ownership is a blast (most f the time)

[Ex-Calif]

Still waiting for parts but went to the boat yesterday to wash her, pump the bilge and take some photos to document the "before"

Saildrive - The top down view shows my concern with the saildrive seal. The backing ring is very corroded and was a bit scary looking. I scraped it a bit and while it is definitely gone there is some meat under the corrosion. The boot is still flexible. The close up shot of the port side is pretty scary.

Aft Mount - The aft mount is in much better shape than the engine mounts. Probably because it's been less wet back there.

Port Engine Mount - The engine to Isolator bolt looks good but the iso to bed bolts are pretty corroded. I will reuse the iso bolt but change the bed bolts. The rubber is flexible but I can't tell how delaminated it is and whether it is allowing excess shaking.

Starboard Engine Mount - Overhead shot showing similar distress to the port side. Same plan here.

Battery Bay - The overview shot shows the thick black battery cables. All well past their use by date. A little wiring cleanup to be done. The floor is plywood and still pretty solid. On the port side you can see the space where the missing water lift was.

The plan is to get the parts and install the fuel and exhaust system first. The boatyard is 10 miles or so away and I will then sail/motor to the boatyard to lift the engine, saildrive, batteries and clean up the flooring, bilge and paint.

Clean up the wiring and then reinstall the saildrive, engine and batteries and exhaust - I am debatiing to wait till haulout in November to do the work while the antifoul is being done. The saildrive boot concerns me but not as bad as when I first looked.

[b-rad]

I just had my injectors reset at a diesel shop as opposed to replaceing, cost me 40$ each. I also ended up replaceing my mixer a few months ago, found this website after, Dont know if I would have done it this way but a good wat to save a few hundred.
Volvo MD7A Exhaust Riser Replacement

[Ex-Calif]

It finally clicked in my head.

I have been wondering about the severe corrosion on the saildrive boot ring.

Staring at the photos it finally clicked that the brown tube running down the aft port side of the engine is the heat exchanger pop-off drain.

The engine has been puking boiling fresh water from the engine onto the saildrive boot. "Slight" water loss is also on the gig list - New cap and seal.

That's a brilliant place to route that tube - NOT...

I think I will buy a 1/2 liter puke tank and route the tube to the tank then to the bilge. That way I can see if the cap is blowing by.

[Bilgediver]

Originally Posted by Ex-Calif

The Plan[/B]
- Drain the fuel tank, pull it and clean it
- Exchange injectors (~$280 new and ~$160 exchange each - ouch)
- Replace all rubber fuel lines on the fuel system - eliminate air leak potential
- Replace all crush washers in the fuel delivery system high pressure side
- Pull exhaust mixer and inspect/clean/repair or replace (~$400 - ouch)
- Pull the inlet housing and inspect /clean/repair as necessary
- Adjust valves
- Remove heat exchanger and clean the core
- Replace thermostat and heat exchanger pressure cap
- Change oil and filters
- Change fuel filter
- Change raw impeller
- Clean up raw inlet system for blockages and barnacles.

Parts need to be ordered and they will likely be at least 2 weeks getting here. In the meantime I have a few jobs to do but unfortunately no sailing.

I will post any updates as I work the list.

Any other ideas are welcome.

Dan.. Something I have seen where these engines have been used to replace an older Volvo is this...

The old Volvo engine was higher than the 2010 and some installers do not take this into account when fitting the wee 2010 . Because of the position of the exhaust water trap this means that now with the new engine the exhaust hose from the mixer to the water trap travels uphill! It may only be a short hose however every time the engine is stopped the small amount of water in this hose runs back to the engine. Over a period of time this causes corrosion of the exhaust valve ans seat and failure usually happens after 2/3 years.

A few such installations in the UK have had this type of failure so worth checking that this is not happening with you.

The injectors are standard parts as used on japanese industrial engines.
You do not need complete injectors, just get a diesel shop to sort them out.
You should at worst need nozzles which will be less than 100 sing dollars.

There will be diesel shops around Jurong and Loyang servicing the oil industry.
Check your Yellow pages as I have lost touch since operating rigs out there some years ago.

[Bilgediver]

Originally Posted by Ex-Calif

I am pulling the mixer tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find...

Further to my earlier posting I see Google brings up many diesel injector service places. You might find the tractor boys recognise your bits as they are probably based on a Kubota or similar tractor engine.

[Ex-Calif]

Bilgediver,

Many thanks for the experienced and informative post. I have asked around the boat yard about injectors locally and have gotten quizzical stares back. Most of the nine maxis here have had the diesel removed and I think mine is one of the last 4 with the original powerplant.

If I had a cross reference to the Volvo part number I might try dialing around but my experience is that Singapore is a bit like a treasure hunt. It's here somewhere but you can spend days finding it.

The 2010 is an original installation on this boat. I haven't measured (but will) but eyeballing things the geometry looks OK. The mixer sits in a cradle on the plywood floor well below the exhaust manifold.

The trap from the mixer to the transom is above the waterline for sure and looks to be below the level of the exhaust manifold as well. I will check it though.

Parts are on order and I am in awaiting parts mode at present.

[Bilgediver]

Originally Posted by Ex-Calif

Bilgediver,

I might try dialing around but my experience is that Singapore is a bit like a treasure hunt. It's here somewhere but you can spend days finding it.

I am sure this engine is based on a japanese base engine used by Perkins ans Volvo. The injection equipment could well be standard Bosch fuel components.

Find a shop who knows about Kubota etc and you might be celebrating at Clark Quay tomorrow night

Check your fuel pump and injectors for markings or take them here


Bosch Diesel Center

Dieseltech Pte Ltd
13, Kian Teck Crescent
628878 Singapore
Singapore / Singapore

[Ex-Calif]

At long last the parts showed up. I think it's fair to say that marine parts express has provided stellar service so far. One box was missing and I finally called UPS and they were holding it. For a week. Apparently I owed Singapore sales tax - I expected that but on a previous shipment FedEx paid it and gave me an invoice. UPS paid it and held my box. The dumb part is they didn't call me to tell me anything. I had to track it down - sigh...

But they are here! Yay!

Here is a few shots of what about US$1,800 buys you from Volvo. The right side and center front are the saildrive seal and backing ring as well as a gasket kit. The gasket kit is needed because the saildrive lower leg needs to come off to fit the seal. The bonus piece I didn't expect was the outer seal that fairs the salidrive leg and the hull. I made one last haul out but this one will be way cooler.

Center backstage are two injectors worth about US$280 each and a collection of copper and aluminum gaskets for every banjo fitting in the fuel system. The little stuff can be pricey too!

On the left side is, of course, the wet muffler. A nice piece of Swedish engineering consisting of two pretty simple stainless end caps and a piece of rubber hose between worth only US$480 or so. Add shipping takes and a few bits and bobs and I've killed almost 20 boat bucks.

Somewhere in the mess is also about US$500 worth of engine mounts.

But at last the work can start.

[Ex-Calif]

So with the starting problems I decided to baseline and replace everything in the supply of fuel from cleaning the tank to installing new injectors.

The tank came out full and we drained it into a bucket. The photo doesn't do justice to how much crud is in that discarded fuel. We flushed the tank and cleaned and cleaned it and black sludge kept coming out. I doubt the tank has been out or cleaned since new in 1981.

There was a rattling in there and without an inspection cover we couldn't open it. Perseverance finally paid off and pieces of the chain that holds the fuel cap, or used to hold the fuel cap, finally came out.

Ashok - on the left in photo inventoried all the parts and cleaned the alternator up, which came out for the battery cable job. Rob is on the right. Rob is a good mechanic and he helped me with the fuel system.

Rob installed a new NPT nipple for the supply as the old fitting was a kludge with a rubber hose on a flare fitting nipple. It didn't leak but it wasn't right. We got the tank remounted and we ran brand new flex line for the supply and injector rail return as well as cleaning up the tank vent system. The supply line was only a year or so old but I am a baseline it kind of guy so all new hose goes in and the used one will be kept for spare.

Best idea was to clean this cruddy tank.

Tomorrow we install a new fuel filter and reassemble all the injector hardware.

[Ex-Calif]

Mark was put in charge of electrical work. The idea is to replace all the battery harnesses with new.

The battery ground and the battery positive both ran on the sub-floor of the after bilge with a piece of black rubber "anti-chafe" over the battery wire. You can kinda make them out in the photo.

I knew they were in bad shape because they were like wet noodles when I moved them around. I really didn't know how bad until I pulled them out.

That's a 19mm open wrench for perspective. Yikes! That is the cable that runs from the 3-way switch to the starter secondary. I can't believe any electrons got through that piece of crap. I can probably take a battery out and still have the same cranking performance!

The new routing will have the cables go over the top of the transmission and the anti-chafe we bought is clear so we can see what is inside there in the future.

Singapore is bloody hot mid-day and I knew we might need some more bits and bobs so I planned a break from 12:00-4:00 for lunch and a trip to the chandlers. We needed some more battery cable - I goofed and didn't get enough. We also are going a different way with the harness to make the install cleaner but that requires more lugs. A little fuel hose and Mark had to have a crimper and some flux while Rob and I needed a barbed fitting for the vent line. Poof! Another $150 or so in "stuff" and about $60 to feed the workers - I am a kind slave driver...

That's Mark with the teriyaki burger. He's the best. He is only visiting from the US for a couple of days, made one sail with me last year and is working like a dog. Another excellent aircraft mechanic although he has bitched a couple of times that the ramp rats usually clean the aircraft engines before he works on them - I told him on boats we have bilge rats and you're it

Rob is enjoying some giant knuckle of mutton, Indian style. Singapore food is great. Unfortunately as good as the mutton was it ended up biting him in the ass later in the day - if you get my drift

I also completely removed the engine boxes. I have new "silver back" insulation that I am going to install to help reduce engine noise. That allowed better access to the starboard side of the engine and a better shot of the saildrive seal. It actually looks worse than it is. The corrosion is mostly surface stuff. But it will be replaced along with the engine mounts.

[Ex-Calif]

So tomorrow we should go pretty quick on putting the fuel system together.

We have three more battery cables to build and then need to install them and reinstall the alternator.

On the exhaust side we need to install the heat exchanger, install the wet muffler and we are done for now.

Next Friday we'll sail about 5 miles to where I can haul out.

After haul out I am taking a week vacation and will pull the engine & sail drive. The bilge will be emptied of everything including the sub-floor and I will clean and paint the bilge. The sub-floor will be inspected and reconditioned and reinstalled and then the saildrive and engine will go back in. While the engine is out I will clean it up and paint it as well.

The newly insulated engine cover will go in and if I have time I will paint the insides of the cockpit lockers.

Whew! I'm beat...

[Blue Stocking]

Whew! I'm beat...

----but the feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment can only be enjoyed by one who has been there, eh?

[Ex-Calif]

Arrived early at the boat. Mark and I finished up making 4 battery cables and put the batteries on charge.

Ashok went upside down in the bilge to install the wet muffler and also reassembled the heat exchanger and serviced the cooling system.

Installed the alternator and reconnected all of the electrical. Then the spark check. OK, no sparks but...

The distribution panel lit up but the engine panel did not. Everything on the house worked. Lights, vhf, instruments etc. etc.

Darn - Electrical troubleshooting is not hard but it is very methodical and time consuming. And we made a critical error right at the start - as one always does. Got the multimeter out.

There was a ground wire broken on the alternator. We didn't have a new lug but we flashed the alternator case to ground and convinced ourselves the alternator was grounding through the case - bad call...

Double and triple checked the battery wiring. All good.

There is a "home made" wire loom with one leg attached to the alternator positive and the other leg attached to the engine ground. We manually traced it as far as possible and then guessed it was the panel power. Later it turned out to have nothing to do with the engine but wiring can lead you on many goose chases.

Early on I said it indicated like a bad engine panel ground but we continued.

The engine panel harness attaches to a box on the port aft of the engine right above the starter. There was a fuse pack on it. Removed and checked the fuses - good.

Decided to remove the engine panel. Confirmed power was getting to the panel and that the master switch was working. Grounding the voltmeter on the engine block - removed that "home made" loom and made no difference. That loom has nothing to do with panel power. The power comes from the starter secondary and into the engine harness.

Finding out what that harness does is a job for another day...

So we check attached the the "failed" ground wire and bing - the panel lights up. Damn, it was a ground problem and the ground lug on the alternator is isolated from the case (of course it is) and there is no way to ground the alternator field and engine panel unless the ground wire is attached.

Rob took the opportunity to remove all the plugs on the back of the panel and clean them, lubricate and reinstall.

Reassemble the alternator for the 4th time or so. Secure the engine panel and all is good. About a 2 hour diversion.

Wanted to take pics but after charging the camera all night the battery was dead - another electrical device trying to make me crazy.

So the last job - Reinstall all the engine fuel system stuff. New gaskets and parts all round. I like new parts.

Install a new fuel filter.

Bleed to the fuel filter, bleed to the injector pump. All seems good.

Crank the engine and get positive pressure from both pump outlets. Install the new injectors. Install the injector lines. Crank the engine and bleed out the injector lines.

The moment of truth!

[Ex-Calif]

Nada, zip, no bang at all...

The symptoms before all the new parts was heavy black sooty smoke.

This time it's a new symptom. The engine feels like it was to go but it just won't catch. There is white smoke coming from the exhaust.

For now I am interpreting that as unburned atomized fuel at this point. A good sign in my book but leads to a question about

- Bleeding. Of course I bled and bled and bled. I seemed to be getting good solid flow but then a few bubbles would come out. There could be air still trapped in the system. Gonna reblead starting from the fuel filter.

- Compression. I hate to think about this one but it's there. The engine made good power when it ran before but if I have good fuel and good fuel delivery the only logical step is compression. Gonna take a compressino tester next time out. The manual say 495 psi under starter cranking. We'll see...

After a 12 hour day day and with the sun setting and the air cooling we decided to finish up with sitting on the boat and drinking beer.

Everything we've done is goodness so while disappointed we didn't get a light off I am cautiously optimistic that it is still a simple bleeding exercise.