Visit our Popular Forums

senormechanico · 18-10-2010, 09:43

Make sure you're getting decent voltage at the glow plugs.

Steve B.

**Ex-Calif** · 18-10-2010, 09:48

Thanks sm.

In confessional mode the glowplugs on Relax Lah! have never worked. In our climate they were never needed and the engine would start after a couple of turns. I have never taken the time to troubleshoot but maybe it's time. At least find out if voltage is at the plugs or not.

In our cranking exercise on Sunday the cylinder head did get hot so some sort of minor combustion is taking place. Just not enough to sustain...

KillerBoo · 18-10-2010, 11:08

Impressive job. So much things to do and still you keep a happy face

Have to say.. I thought MY engine room looked bad, but compared to your before-pics it´s an orgy in new parts hehe.

As a reflection to your bleeding problem/air problem: My M77 has an old MD6A. Installled when boat was new back in 1972 you would think the engine should be used as an anchor in 2010 but it´s still in a very good shape. of course TLC from the -including myself- 3 owners over the years would keep an engine happy, but still... 38 years is a long time for a marine engine to survive. Anyhow, A while back I had some prob´s with a diesel leak from the "primary pump" (the one feeding the high pressure pump). Well, since you already know VP parts are not all that cheap (as opposed to their car parts) the pump wasn´t an option to buy new. At the equiv of some 200 USD it´s just not something I´d pay for a feeder pump for an engine thats close to 40 yrs old, and probably -no matter how much care given- on it´s last year or 2. I didnt feel it was justifiable to buy it, since who knows what will give up next. Anyway, I went to the local cheapstore for autoparts, and got an electronic low pressure pump instead. Works great and cost me the equiv of 12 USD. And the bonus side of it.. -it took this very long post to get to the point- the system bleeds out itself. Turn the key, open the bleeders, wait a short while close, close them and voila, you´re done.
And the satisfaction of having screwed those blood sucking marine part companies is even greater

All in all, I think you´re doing a great job on the old gal. Please, do not forget to post some after-pics as well

KillerBoo · 18-10-2010, 11:11

Btw, I´ve been sailing a lot in low temperatures (well below freezing point) and just once have I had probs starting the engine. But oc, it was then very cold and the engine hadn´t been started for a week. Solution: A hair drier at the air intake. Started like a dream. Hence, I doubt that you´d have to glow any plugs to get your engine started in your climate.. If that´s the case, then I´d suspect there´s something really wrong with it.

**Ex-Calif** · 18-10-2010, 11:23

Thanks KillerBoo -

On my engine there is a manual lift pump, then up to the filter and then to the injector pump.

The fuel tank is "at" the level of the lift pump so when the fuel level is low it's possible to have the tank level below the lift pump and definitely below the filter. I have always liked the idea of a little electric boost pump from the tank to the lift pump. I may pick one up at the auto parts store on my next US trip.

KillerBoo · 18-10-2010, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ex-Calif

On my engine there is a manual lift pump, then up to the filter and then to the injector pump.

Same goes for mine.

**Ex-Calif** · 23-10-2010, 04:04

I think I am facing into the inevitable. After another day on the boat we still could not get a light off.

I am now getting convinced that compression is down and previous troubleshooting of fuel system and injectors, while needing to be done is not root cause.

Proggresively harder to start over the preceding 6 months. Black smoke and soot. I didn't pick up a compression tester but the book says 490 odd PSI and +23:1 compression.

I put a socket on the crank nut and a speed handle and I can turn the engine over by hand very easily. This is not what is supposed to be happening and I don't feel a solid compression.

Now I have to decide what to do with the Volvo. I had done some research on parts and I think the overhaul kit can be had for around $2,000. Add $1,000 or so for machine shop and incidentals and I am hoping to get done for around $3,000.

Thoughts and comments appreciated.

KillerBoo · 23-10-2010, 06:06

My MD6 has the similar compression spec´s and I can crank it using hand labour with not too much force. When I blew my head gasket I was at first convinced I had no compression when I cranked it by hand however I did get it to start. After changing gasket I handcranked it again, but could feel no difference. I didnt to a comp test before I changed, but had one done a while afterwards and the readings were if not perfect then at least better than only acceptable. I could still crank it by hand fairly easy. My point is, I don´t think you can pinpoint the fault to no compression just by cranking by hand, unless you really have hardly any compression at all. You would need a compression tester to make certain of it.

As for the costs of a complete overhaul.. yikes.. Converted into swe currency I´d say it´s more than is financially acceptable for an engine that old. That being said, a new engine is out of the question too for the same reasons.
If it was my boat, I´d try to revive the existing, starting with a comp.test If the test showed no/bad compression I´d either try to find a used engine or possibly toss it out and replacing with an outboard. Ye I know.. outboards on a sailingboat really suck, but it would be the only reasonable alternative if you take money into consideration. Of course, logics rarely apply when it comes to boat costs

**Ex-Calif** · 23-10-2010, 15:28

Thanks Boo - compression test will be definitely the order of the day before anything else.

KillerBoo · 24-10-2010, 05:07

Did you get that "CT" done?
If you do have a decent compression pressure and the engine still wont wake up then go for the "last option".. being "starting gas" (ether). This should only be done as one of the a last resorts though, since if you spray too much it could very well damage a diesel engine by making the ether ignite at a bad time, like when the pistons are on their way up, thus causing a connecting rod to get crooked. Spray very lightly, very briefly into the air intake, preferably even through a piece of cloth. Dont use this as a way of starting your engine on a regular basis, more like a way to determine what´s wrong with it. Following your work with great interest, both since you are one of few Maxi77-owners outside Scandinavia but also cos I like to take things apart and like you, don´t give up too easily