Best diesel for sailboats?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by mikedefieslife

All of them? Some do seem purpose built. Like the diesel outboards they make for example. They claim the 6ly is purpose built for marine use, I imagine quite a few other models are too.

It’s an industrial engine with a marine designation and unique part numbers. They bolt a bunch of equipment to the base block. They did engineer the marinization package to be purpose built for that engine. But it’s still an in-line 6 with a shallow oil sump.

There are few, if any, purpose built marine engines in the size range we discuss here.

[fish53]

Originally Posted by mikedefieslife

All of them? Some do seem purpose built. Like the diesel outboards they make for example. They claim the 6ly is purpose built for marine use, I imagine quite a few other models are too.

You can still buy a Bukh marine diesel in the sizes discussed here otherwise everything is converted industrial engines. I do have a Lister Blackstone SL2M that comes close but it's still a conversion, fortunately I also have a Sabb model G which is about as marine as an engine can get. In my opinion a marine diesel should be simple, slow turning, heavy built with a huge flywheel and hand crank starting.

[Bill Seal]

The only engine I would advise you to absolutely avoid would be the Volvo MD11/MD17 (or any of their forebears) since they are unique to Volvo, can only be bolted to a Volvo transmission (the crankshaft is offset in the bell housing, and the coupling is part of the crank). the conical clutch lining is molded into the transmission gears and is discontinued and unobtainable. The rear trans seal is a standard CR 4" seal, available at any bearing house for about 10 bucks, or from Volvo for $110.
Another word of warning, crawl down into the engine compartment and make sure you can get to the shaft packing, oil and fuel filterrs and all other important areas.

[oldcal46skipper]

Originally Posted by Compass790

I dont know but I suspect that Jammer has some alliance to Yanmar or is trying to sell his boat with a Yanmar engine.
If he denies Yanmar parts prices are OTT I don;t know where he is coming from.

All I can do is give you some parts prices.
Yanmar YSM8 conrod $630 NZ bear in mind this is a 7hp rated engine for continuous operation. Equates to roughly $400 US.
Should be a $60 US $ item

One flanged crankshaft main bearing was about $380 US in NZ.
I got both main bearings machined for US $100 but real price might be $200.
Looked at Kubota price for a seal, was $3.50. Yanmar was $60.
but I cant provide evidence as it was a long time ago.
Suggest you start a thread for those who have changed from Yanmars or Volvos to Kubota based engines to get more current evidence.
Or look at parts prices.
Hope that helps

I have been repairing boat diesel engines for over 40 years. Due to parts availability in Florida USA for Yanmars & Volvos, I do not work on them. I can rebuild a 40 year old Perkins for less than either of these, plus IMHO they are better engines. I also sell and repair Kubotas and Detroit Diesels.


Good Luck, Tom

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

Based in extremely bad experience servicing Westerbeke gensets. Block corrosion issues.


b.

Are the Westerbeke's raw water cooled? Or perhaps there's a galvanic corrision isue inherent to the generator design? I stripped down my poor old 10yo Mitsubishi S3L2 that had been basting in sea water for years and block and head corrision wasn't an issue. And this was an engine where all internal roller bearings were severely corroded. In fact I'm going to rebuild it as is but with new bearings and seals as a project just to see how it runs once back together (it's really just a parts engine now, but easier to store as one component vs hundreds).

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

https://bukh.dk


The above is the best.


Beta is decent.


Avoid marinized Mistsubishi blocks. Imho.


I think Nanni, Sole, Vetus and Westerbeke may be Mitsubishi blocks.



Cheers,

b.

Originally Posted by blu3534

Why would you say to avoid Mitsubishi blocks?

In my experience Solé [1] diesel motors work very well. Can't comment on other manufacturers.


[1]: Link: Boat Engines - Solé Diesel

My Hallberg Rassy had been refitted with a Westerbeke 46. The block was a Mitsubishi. I got the boat cheap because the engine would turn 350 degrees, then go..."clunk". Turned out if the engine was carboned up and allowed to sit for a few years, the carbon would swell and stop full rotation. Remember, a diesels combustion chamber is very small in order to achieve 20+ to 1.
By far the worst engine I own Volvo 2003 27hp. Expensive parts, constant breakage and leaked raw water. In my Ingrid 38, I took out the Volvo MD II (24hp...what a joke for a 25,000lb. boat) and replaced it with a Yanmar 4JH 44hp. Great and reliable engine. My Westsail 28 has a brand spanking new Beta 28hp. I have yet to try it but hear great things about it. Easy finding parts and inexpensive.

[fish53]

Originally Posted by Bill Seal

The only engine I would advise you to absolutely avoid would be the Volvo MD11/MD17 (or any of their forebears) since they are unique to Volvo, can only be bolted to a Volvo transmission (the crankshaft is offset in the bell housing, and the coupling is part of the crank). the conical clutch lining is molded into the transmission gears and is discontinued and unobtainable. The rear trans seal is a standard CR 4" seal, available at any bearing house for about 10 bucks, or from Volvo for $110.
Another word of warning, crawl down into the engine compartment and make sure you can get to the shaft packing, oil and fuel filterrs and all other important areas.

The same issue exists with Yanmar as they use Kanzaki marine transmissions which no one else uses and are thus unique to Yanmar.

[NCboatrx]

@ Celestialsailor
That brand new Beta 28 in your Westsail 28 dates back to 2002.
Have fun, Stanley

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by NCboatrx

@ Celestialsailor
That brand new Beta 28 in your Westsail 28 dates back to 2002.
Have fun, Stanley

Yes I know the former owner Installed it 9 years ago and soon after store the boat on his property. There is only a few hundred hours on it. Do I pass now?

[SV__Grace]

Lots of Kubota/Beta fans here and I'm one as well. Our previous boat was repowered with a Beta and I loved it. We bought our current boat at a good price because it needed a new engine and installed a Beta, and love this one as well.

So that's an idea for you- find the boat you want at a good price because it needs a new engine and re-power with a fresh, new engine, preferably a Beta.

[molump]

I have experience with Yanmar most recently. Have also had a Perkins back in the 1980s. Never had a Volvo. Price parts comparisons have been covered in other replies.
My experience is that you ask for the service log and all receipts related to diesel. Check thoroughly for maintenance based on “hours” and not on calendar days. Any diesel, properly maintained and serviced should provide thousands of hours.
I am currently repowering a Pearson 303 with an old Yanmar 2gmf that was properly maintained, serviced and stored.

[Cheechako]

You will probably have to live with whatever is in your favorite boat. but I'd say Yanmar or Volvo are about the same... maybe. Depends on the particular engine. Some Volvo's are real oddball designs. Others are very stout heavy duty engines. Yanmar's are popular, but lightweight engines. Better parts availability with Yanmar.
I'd prefer Kubota over either.
I'd prefer Perkins, Lehman over Kubota, Yanmar or Volvo.

[oldbuzzard]

I puta beta marine kubota in my 1979 islander 32. I couldnt be more pleased and the phone service from the dealer owner himself couldnt be better. And i DO buy from the tractor dealer. All filters and belts especially. I even removed the old engine and installed the new one myself. Very user friendly and turnkey. The new gage panel is plug and play.

[Ken Pole]

FWIW, Volvo has a terrible reputation for high parts pricing.

[Sailor 99]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Those 2 have very high parts prices.
Ok if you buying new & intend to sell it before major repairs are needed.
Rather have a yanmar than a volvo.

I'd suggest a kubota base engine like the Beta otherwise just from scuttlebutt not experience. They have much cheaper parts prices & you can get parts from a tractor dealer.

Well I bought a beta 75 for my boat. Could not get a prop match on it. Simply would not turn the prop to max rpms. Went down 1 prop size and it still would not turn it.


Then one day I found the Kubota rating sicker. 49.8 kw. = 66 hp. So they sold me a 66 hp Kubota as a 75. No surprise that it would not turn the prop.


I contacted Beta and they told me that they would dyno the engine if I took it out of the boat and they guaranteed it was 75 hp.


I will not buy beta again that is for sure.