Broken exhaust manifold to injection elbow pipe

[sanibel sailor]

Currently returning home after overseas vacation. A trusted friend had the boat out in my absence. The pipe nipple connecting the exhaust manifold to the injection elbow broke. I have not yet seen it personally. Looks like getting the broken part out of the elbow should be fairly easy. Looks like the other end is broken off flush with in the exhaust manifold. Looks considerably more challenging. Are there any special tools designed to get this out? I think it's 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch pipe. I've got good access to it, but would prefer not to remove the manifold from the engine if possible as the gaskets are hard to come by. Engine is a Westerbeke 30, AKA 4-91

[DefinitelyMe]

So the bit that's snapped-off and stuck is a male-male part? Take a hacksaw blade and grab one end of it with a pair of vice-grips. Now stick it into the manifold and carefully cut most of the way through the bit that's stuck. Next, take a cold chisel (or screwdriver) and hammer it carefully into the groove that you've cut to break the remaining bit of metal without cutting into the threads on the manifold itself.

So now you've got a split in the bit that's stuck in the manifold. By prying the metal a little you can easily break any corrosion between the parts and unscrew the bit of nipple by placing a screwdriver into the groove and tapping it. If all else fails and you still can't get it out, make a second cut and then remove the bits of nipple in two pieces. This technique is frequently used for removing cutlass bearings. It's a bit easier with them because the bronze is softer than the steel you're working with but it's still quite manageable, especially if you have a small electric reciprocating saw.

Incidentally, I have the Westerbeke 40; rather than buying the expensive Westerbeke gaskets I just use the high-temperature gasket maker that you can buy in a tube. It's worked a charm on my exhaust manifold for the last year and a half, in heavy use.

[sanibel sailor]

Sounds like a good technique. I am wondering if there is some special tool like an overgrown easy-out or an expanding internal gripper that is made for this specific situation. I imagine plumbers run into this problem with some frequency.

[sailah]

There are. I have a bunch of the really large ones. I used one recently to remove a 2" pipe nipple in my air compressor similar to yours. I torched it pretty hot, shot with Kroil, tapped in the EZ out, used a 36" crescent wrench with about a 3' cheater pipe and I'm 240. Was leaning into it pretty good but it finally let go.

I think depending on how tight it's stuck that may be too much force on the manifold and you break something expensive. I'd pull the manifold and replace the gasket

If you want to try it I can loan you the ez out. Just need an internal measurement.

[boden36]

If you have a welding torch, put a red hot line along it. It will shrink when cooled and be easier to remove.
You can also do the same with an arc welder but beware sparks and fire risk.

Regards,
Richard

[sanibel sailor]

Finished on both sides. Remove the elbow. I had hoped to be able to remove that end with a pipe wrench but it merely broke off flush. Enough of a Lip however to get a punch on and bend it inwards and peel it out that way. On the manifold, more corrosion and that came out thread by thread. I'll have to get a tap and chase the threads to clean them up, but overall successful. I think I'll use 316 stainless steel for the replacement.

[DefinitelyMe]

Be careful about using different metal types, especially in a hot + salty environment as you could set up a perfect situation for galvanic corrosion.

[puffcard]

I built my elbow on my Westerbeke W50, using SS pipe fitting, it was 1-1/4". Used a short nipple to a 45 deg elbow. On the top of the elbow had a machine shop drill and weld a 1/2"NPT, 2" long nipple. Then I wrapped with header wrap. That was done 15 years ago and just inspected it and looked great, no build-up or corrosion. For the manifold gasket, if you need one quick call TransAtlantic Diesel. If you have a week, go to ASAP (UK) and use the BMC 1.5 as a base engine for the W30.

https://www.asap-supplies.com/us/eng...mc-1500-131008

[model 10]

I did the same thing with our Perkins except I used Bronze fittings. Seemed pretty simple and cheap.

[sanibel sailor]

If I need to redo the exhaust elbow, I will go bronze/SS as above.

Galvanic corrosion is not much of an issue as parts are not continuously immersed. And it was dissimilar from factory- iron/steel and aluminum, now SS and aluminum, a move in the right direction.

Another source for this engine is Moss Motors here in the US. Call it a MGA 1500, parts are dirt cheap. I am rebuilding one, looking at about $250 for all parts but pistons. Very few diesel specific parts, pistons and cam, likely head. Manifold gasket is slightly different, may need to get a specific diesel one, but the upper gasket complete set is only $17 vs hundreds just for the head gasket from Westerbeke.