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MarkJ · 11-08-2010, 12:56

Just an update on this thread for those that might be finding this on a Google search.

Some technical whiz may be able to confirm this (I can't as my Racor is 3 feet under junk in the aft cabin)

The big black knob on the bottom of the Racor screws UP to let dirty fuel out.

Then to shut it off you screw the knob DOWN.

Its the complete reverse of what seems logical.

Mark

colemj · 11-08-2010, 18:19

Seems like that would be perfectly normal for someone from down under...

Mark

Healer52 · 11-08-2010, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkJ

Just an update on this thread for those that might be finding this on a Google search.

Some technical whiz may be able to confirm this (I can't as my Racor is 3 feet under junk in the aft cabin)

The big black knob on the bottom of the Racor screws UP to let dirty fuel out.

Then to shut it off you screw the knob DOWN.

Its the complete reverse of what seems logical.

Mark

If you ever take the bowl apart you'll see why it's that way. Makes perfect sense to an engineer.

motion30 · 11-08-2010, 23:37

the latest filter elaments fit both old and new filters if using using the old style housing and have been using the black plastic spacer the spacer must be removed for the new element to fit

MarkJ · 12-08-2010, 10:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Healer52

Makes perfect sense to an engineer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by colemj

Seems like that would be perfectly normal for someone from down under...

Mark

No wonder I'm mechanically inept!

Chief Engineer · 12-08-2010, 19:35

most sailors are pretty "ept"

You would be surpised...after a little while you can gain a level of eptness/
A couple of books and chats with good mechanics

Dynamo1181 · 13-08-2010, 05:39

I have diassembled the 500 before to clean the grundge from the bowl but I have found the following procedure to be very effective and easyfor the last 18 yrs....after removing the filter and opening the bottom drain, I use a small cup of diesel and pour this in from the top, while catching the dirty fuel draining from the bottom. I repeat this untill all "grunge" is removed. The splash removed all traces of bugs and water adhered to the interior of the bowl surface. By using 4 ounces at a time none of the splashing fluid reaches the clean filtered intake that would normally be covered by the filter. The 4-108 does have a secondairy filter if by chance a speck were to find its way into the "out" side of the filter.
I like the clean bowl as it allows you to clearly/readily see a sudden accumulation of gunk from a bad load of fuel.
A

Maine Sail · 13-08-2010, 08:59

You prompted me to finally upload the photos I have of rebuilding a Racor Turbnine Filter.

I have NOT yet added the commentary but the photos should be fairly self explanatory for anyone with a decent mechanical aptitude.

Hope this helps..

Rebuilding A Racor 500 Turbine Filter (LINK)

P.S. You can click on the images in the gallery & make them bigger.

four winds · 11-02-2011, 16:08

Maine Sail, what follows is a text I composed intending to post as a new thread. I decided to tag it on here instead. You're tutorials are well illustrated and well written, thanks for the effort. They really help someone like me who does all my own work but is new to diesels and boats.

This post reads like a new thread post so flows a little awkward here. I added slight edits for clarity.

_______________________________________________

The bowl on my Racor 500FG was literally half full of silt so I decided it must be attended to. It wouldn't drain at all, and little could be done from the opening for the drain. It's the older style FG where the bowl is inserted from the top when the unit is mounted. It doesn't have the removable retaining ring like the newer model. The retaining ring is actually the mounting bracket as well. So I decided to remove it for servicing and starting looking for info to fuel an effort to disassemble and rebuild it using kit RK 15211 that I purchased from West Marine for double what it should have cost.

I found this thread on the forum, http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...lem-15223.html, and read it with interest. (edit.... this is the thread you are reading now.)

I also read this tutorial published online by a member (edit....Maine Sail) of the forum. Of particular interest are the images of the check ball seal halfway down page one. Rebuilding A Racor Turbine Filter Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

I question the orientation of the check ball seal. Mine appeared to be upside down based on the image labeled as correct from the tutorial. While reassembling the unit I came to question whether it should be installed as shown in the tutorial.

This image is labeled as the correct installation orientation for the check ball seal. (#10 item 15010)
Check Valve Gasket - CORRECT photo - Compass Marine photos at pbase.com

This is the section drawing included with the kit and shown in the tutorial.
Exploded View photo - Compass Marine photos at pbase.com

Three things cause me to question the accuracy of the image labeled as correct for the seal.

The seal is labeled “top” in that image yet it is oriented in a way that this label is actually on the bottom when the unit is in the upright position. Of course it is the top when the housing is upside down as in the picture.
The section drawing shows the lip of this seal in a way that suggests the label “top” would actually be on the top when installed upright. A careful look at item 10 in the magnified view shows this clearly. (in the circle next to the words All Models in the center of the image) Notice the curve of the "dish" just to the left of the tip of the arrow for item 10.
My old seal was oriented with the label “top” on the top when installed and my filter may well have never been disassembled. It has been working properly I suppose, since this check ball prevents the system from losing prime and mine has not lost prime.

Granted it does appear to “fit perfectly” in the dish as stated in the next frame of the page. However I'm not sure that is a reason to place it that way for two reasons. It contradicts the “top” label (unless held upside down) and and section drawing (clearly). Also since this check ball literally floats up against this seal it would work best with a contact surface that is thin, much like a floating needle and seat in a carburetor. Having a wide contact surface offers more opportunity for contamination to foil the process. This is the unfiltered input to the bowl so grit is there if anywhere.

I believe it's dished in order to thin the contacting edge against the ball. Making it more supple or compliant, to seal on the floating ball that would not press very hard against it. It flexes and seals more easily against this thin supple edge and small force as a result.

Look carefully at the curved line on the section drawing that represents the “dish” and consider my reasoning from the last two paragraphs above and see if you agree.

I present this as an honest critique and not to disparage your efforts on the tutorials, they are excellent.

Thanks, Greg

mike d. · 11-02-2011, 16:53

Mark you need an Allen wrench to take off bowl (no big deal) then you have access to the internals for cleaning i did this took about 5 mins. to take out Allen screws, then 10 to clean all the crud out. if you don't have corrosion on Allens then you should not have a prob. if any are stuck just tap them lightly to loosen and dis-assemble!. this is a really simple filter to service completely!

four winds · 11-02-2011, 16:57

Allow me to point out this is a resurrected thread, maybe not a good idea. I think Mark's been around the world since this was originally posted.

Of course info about servicing a Racor is always good.

captain58sailin · 11-02-2011, 17:43

For timing the the filter replacement, it helps to have a vacuum gauge installed to indicate when you are starting to fill up the filter element with solids.