cooling system advice

[cnkale80]

I've got my eyes set on the 2008 Sundancer 290 with twin 5.0's. This boat seems to check all boxes i.e. affordability for me, twin berth, and towable. also to mention, she's a beauty. I do have one concern though and thats the cooling system. I really don't like raw water cooling but I think I could deal with it because I don't plan on spending much time in salt/brackish water. I'd safely say I will be spending about 80% of the time in fresh water with a couple trips in saltwater on a yearly basis.

Is it worth investing in a CCW conversion kit or just simply limit time in salt and flush at the end of a trip?

thanks folks...

[tkeithlu]

Good morning, CNKale.

This boat is on the fringe of boats people on this forum generally deal with. But, let's try. Although outboard engines, including mine, routinely use purely raw salt water cooling rather than a heat exchanger, and usually die for other reasons, it is basically leaving salt water in contact with steel parts. I'm in salt water all the time, and would not for a moment consider such a system. I saw what it could do to an engine back in the 1980s. But, you're talking about occasional salt water contact and the ability to flush soon thereafter. Under those conditions, my bet is that salt corrosion will not be a problem.

[Nicholson58]

I must disagree. Salt exposure is cumulative. Protect the engine or be prepared to toss it (and be inconvenienced or worse)

[grantmc]

The obvious answer is yes but there are some provisos.
1. What sort of engine, petrol or diesel, make, model?
2. How is it currently protected by anodes? Perhaps add more?
3. Is it a fill conversion kit or just the block?
4. What's the cost of the kit including install?

And at the end of the day we're just some peps on the internet. What about getting advice from the techs at a dealership?

[Bill O]

You are looking at a boat w/~15yo motors. Guess my question would be how where they used up until this time?

Even if they were run in a fresh water lake up until now, would think the cast iron exhaust mixing elbows or other steel components would be starting to corrode since there typically is no addition of corrosion inhibitors to the cooling system.

Don't know the cost of the conversion kit, but is it worth it for these motors?

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Don't know the cost of the conversion kit, but is it worth it for these motors?

No probably not. The weak link isn't the engine but the risers and exhausts. At 15 years, they have probably been replaced at least once. We had a V8 275hp Volvo variant in a Sealine 240, but the fuel costs in the UK were ruinous so sold it and bought a yacht.

Just accept they need replacing perhaps every 10 years and keep an eye on them. You don't have to buy genuine risers, there are cheaper OEM makes in the US. If its on a trailer certainly flush them through as often as possible. Volvo used to do a salt away kit which helped dissolve the salt inside the engine.

Note, our 28hp 2003 Volvo Penta is saltwater cooled and its 1989 vintage.

Pete

[cnkale80]

thank yall, input is greatly appreciated. I guess it will have to depend on the details of the boat I would be looking at such as fresh/salt water use, eng hours, and any maintenance performed. will be in touch, thanks again.

[Pete7]

No problem

If the boat has the later MPI engines that is an improvement with easier starting and lower fuel consumption figures and cleaner burn.

The choke on my V8 was a pipe that just poured fuel into the 4 barrel carb like a sink tap

Pete