Crankshaft pulley pulling shaft out....what to do?

[chowdan]

Well I was trying to move my crankshaft pulley. Got the clawfoot puller mounted, tightened it up, and got a few turns in and felt a 'pop' of some kind and thought great, pulley is off soon.

Next thing I see the shaft seal is sliding out.

What should I do now? It is the weekend, I am going to try to get a mechanic out this coming week, but likely will be the following week.

From diagrams, the pulley is separate from the seal and shouldn't extend into this housing. I don't want to back it all the way out to find out I did it wrong :/

[Bellinghamster]

In the photo it doesn't look like the seal is coming out. (The ID of the seal rides on he protrusion of they pulley). All looks normal to me - I'd continue removing the pulley. The seal can be tapped back into place once the pulley is off.

[Jammer]

Looks normal. You're replacing the seal anyway (right? why wouldn't you?) so it's all good. Might be a two-piece seal or something like that, they tend to come out when you pull the hub.

[chowdan]

Interesting, here's why I was confused. It doesn't look like there is any sort of section aft of the wheel

[Jammer]

Not a very good drawing. There has to be a seal but it is probably on the drawing of the block. Might be a bearing too



Look at the "optional parts" inset. Though barely visible, there's a collar on the rear of the pulley that looks like that you have. The non-optional version may have one too, just smaller or less visible because of the angle.

[Reefmagnet]

Looks like it uses the pulley and not the crankshaft for the sealing surface (as evident that the crankshaft has no sealing face). Pretty smart because it reduces the wear on the seal due to the bigger circumference and if too big a groove forms, you just repair/replace the pulley.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Looks like it uses the pulley and not the crankshaft for the sealing surface (as evident that the crankshaft has no sealing face). Pretty smart because it reduces the wear on the seal due to the bigger circumference and if too big a groove forms, you just repair/replace the pulley.

Yes, this is correct. The seal sits in the PTO case and seals against the OD of the pulley body.

It is coming apart just as Yanmar designed it to do - keeping going.

[chowdan]

Ahh good spot!

Originally Posted by Jammer

Not a very good drawing. There has to be a seal but it is probably on the drawing of the block. Might be a bearing too



Look at the "optional parts" inset. Though barely visible, there's a collar on the rear of the pulley that looks like that you have. The non-optional version may have one too, just smaller or less visible because of the angle.

[chowdan]

Replaced the pulley with the stock rediculously expensive pulley. Its interesting how the diagram posted above has the key slot for the "optional" pulley. I'm not exactly sure what the two differences are - yanmar wasn't really helpful. But the stock pulley did NOT have the slot for a key way. Maybe the optional one was primarily used for PTO?

The old pulley was custom made - and there is a SECONDARY slot for a key as well in the shaft. They obviously had this engine torn apart. I'm not entirely sure why they would have machined a second key slot instead of using the existing one.

Should I be concerned about oil leakage from the key slot?

I've put everything back together to keep any goop or dust or moist air out of the area. Friday I am receiving the new oil seal. Does this seal just press into place, or does one need to remove that entire cover?

While I'm at it, with the pulley in place in the old seal, I am going to be cleaning this side of the engine. Anyone have recommendations on good cleaners for belt/oil/dust buildup?

[acem]

Btw it's a vibration dampened that has a pulley made on it.

Be careful installing the seal and dampener. It's easy to damage oil seals.

Thx-Ace

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by chowdan

The old pulley was custom made - and there is a SECONDARY slot for a key as well in the shaft. They obviously had this engine torn apart. I'm not entirely sure why they would have machined a second key slot instead of using the existing one.

Should I be concerned about oil leakage from the key slot?

Typically a second key at 90 degrees would be added if there was a problem with (or anticipation of a problem with) deformation of the single key due to peak torque.


If you are reinstalling the previous pulley and using both keys, then oil leakage should not be a major concern. You can use Loctite Sleeve Retainer 640 (green) if you want to be sure it does not leak and does not come apart, however, be aware that heat will have to be applied if you decide to remove the pulley at some future point. In many if not most cases this is a good tradeoff.

I've put everything back together to keep any goop or dust or moist air out of the area. Friday I am receiving the new oil seal. Does this seal just press into place, or does one need to remove that entire cover?

The advantage of removing the cover is that doing so makes it easy to remove the old seal, clean the surfaces, and press in the new one. Also you then don't have to worry about getting debris into the crankcase.



It is always more work to do it in place and it is harder to do a good job. The tradeoffs are a judgement call. If you remove the cover you will probably need a new gasket.

While I'm at it, with the pulley in place in the old seal, I am going to be cleaning this side of the engine. Anyone have recommendations on good cleaners for belt/oil/dust buildup?

The gold standard is stripping the block and leaving it in a boiling tank of lye overnight. For various reasons most machine shops now bake the block at around 550 F for a few hours instead; this also works well.


Anything else is a compromise. You can use a power washer. You can use detergents (Gunk Engine Brite etc). You can use solvents. Questions are how clean do you want it, how much of a mess are you willing to make of the surrounding area, how much work do want to do, how much fire risk you'll accept, and how much toxicity to yourself and the environment are you willing to tolerate. Perchlorethylene works great, anything you inhale goes straight to your liver and stays there. Acetone works well especially in mixtures with other solvents, nontoxic, extremely flammable. MEK works great and is toxic and flammable. Or you can use a rag and a scraper and work slowly. You decide.