Visit our Popular Forums

**skipmac** · 19-12-2014, 07:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Did this trouble start at the same time you finished re-doing your fuel system?
Have you ever had it out under power with this new fuel system? It could be fuel starvation, if there is a restriction in the fuel system, it would be difficult to bleed and may well run just fine with low fuel flow, but when under power, fuel demand may exceed fuel flow available and it would act like you describe. Could be as simple as a kinked fuel line. ( I hope)

I did some work on my fuel system and had a very similar problem. Very easy to test.

Get a clean one gallon jug of fresh diesel, disconnect the fuel hose going to the final filter just before the injector pump and run the engine off this. You do need to make 100% certain there are no air leaks at the final filter. If the engine bogs down as before (check the final filter if it does to make sure it is still completely full of fuel, no air in the top) then it is not a problem in the fuel supply system.

svfraidknot · 19-12-2014, 08:57

i would check the shaft also i had a piece of nylon line that was hard up against my cutlass bearing i thought was part of it ..like to have never got it dug out

Cheechako · 19-12-2014, 09:13

it's quite common on boats that have sat for a while for the shaft to be corroded heavily inside the stuffing box. It's due to SS shafts siting in oxygen depleted water in there. I wonder if yours is real badly corroded causing a lot of resistance to turning? I've never heard of it being bad enoough to stall an engine though!.. but could be it. But if it stalls your engine... I definitely would get it out and fix it. You might damage your transmission.

**skipmac** · 19-12-2014, 09:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

it's quite common on boats that have sat for a while for the shaft to be corroded heavily inside the stuffing box. It's due to SS shafts siting in oxygen depleted water in there. I wonder if yours is real badly corroded causing a lot of resistance to turning? I've never heard of it being bad enoough to stall an engine though!.. but could be it. But if it stalls your engine... I definitely would get it out and fix it. You might damage your transmission.

Crevice corrosion is certainly a strong possibility on the shaft if it sat for a long time. But I still come back to the question, wouldn't the stuffing box get pretty darn hot if there was enough friction to stall the engine?

mike d. · 19-12-2014, 10:34

If that pic is of your stuffing box it sure is crappy looking, and doesn't look like it's been touched for a long, long time ! When did you say you did this!. Also the stuffing box tube looks past it's prime! I wonder if has swollen inside, and there is so much growth and crud in the shaft log it is causing the problem!

mike d. · 19-12-2014, 10:40

Also One of the nuts is not making contact with the compression collar. It the collar tilted and jamming the shaft. Metal on metal doesn't need to get warm if there is galling going on. IE s.s. bolt/ screw, with a nyloc nut wound down and the trying to back it off, the s.s. on s.s. will gall and seize up!!! The gland collar looks to be galvy, and galvy will bunch up if there is enough friction on it. And if the collar is cocked it could be jamming the shaft!

Cheechako · 19-12-2014, 10:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marpessa

Now I got it. Confusing website...VIDEO not attachment dummy

That's not a pic of your boat right? Those nuts don't appear to have been off in along time....

Pelagic · 19-12-2014, 14:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike d.

Also One of the nuts is not making contact with the compression collar. It the collar tilted and jamming the shaft. Metal on metal doesn't need to get warm if there is galling going on. IE s.s. bolt/ screw, with a nyloc nut wound down and the trying to back it off, the s.s. on s.s. will gall and seize up!!! The gland collar looks to be galvy, and galvy will bunch up if there is enough friction on it. And if the collar is cocked it could be jamming the shaft!

Good post mike
that is why I recommend that he decouples the shaft first and test both power side and hand turning shaft independently to feel and hear the problem(s).....

chris95040 · 19-12-2014, 15:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

That's not a pic of your boat right? Those nuts don't appear to have been off in along time....

Man you must run a tight ship - that's almost exactly what mine looks like and it was removed, made spotless + shiny, and reinstalled when I replaced the stern tube assembly a little over a year ago. I think most of what you see in that pic is just dry salt. Give 'em a break!

OP- If I were you I'd be really curious to see if the shaft is seized when the failure occurs and you recover by going to neutral. Not sure what kind of access you have though, not a lot of fun lying down on a hot engine to get at all that. Even if you could use a broomstick on one of those coupling bolts though, just to see if you can rotate that shaft a little.

Still not sure what you'd end up doing with that information between now and your haul-out a month from now.

jmschmidt · 20-12-2014, 12:13

Don't know is this is the problem. After a race a spinnaker sheet was dragging in the water. When the skipper started the engine and put it in gear of course the line went about the prop and shaft stopping the engine. Easily cleared by a couple of guys with dive masks. Started engine again and put it in gear, killed the engine again. Went through a lot of trouble shooting including checking for transmission damage. Decupled the shaft and found it jammed by the cutlass bearing. Seems the heat buildup on line for the brief time it was exposed to the turning shaft had melted some of the jacket and small molted blobs of that material entered the cutlass bearing where it immediately cooled with the strength of super-glue jamming the shaft.

Cheechako · 20-12-2014, 12:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris95040

Man you must run a tight ship - that's almost exactly what mine looks like and it was removed, made spotless + shiny, and reinstalled when I replaced the stern tube assembly a little over a year ago. I think most of what you see in that pic is just dry salt. Give 'em a break!

OP- If I were you I'd be really curious to see if the shaft is seized when the failure occurs and you recover by going to neutral. Not sure what kind of access you have though, not a lot of fun lying down on a hot engine to get at all that. Even if you could use a broomstick on one of those coupling bolts though, just to see if you can rotate that shaft a little.

Still not sure what you'd end up doing with that information between now and your haul-out a month from now.

Nah... I thought he said he just changed the packing? That's why I wondered if that was a pic of his or just an example of his type... But I def would have cleaned up those threads and had both nuts tight! If that's a "tight ship"... sobeit!

UNCIVILIZED · 20-12-2014, 14:32

Just bite the bullet, pick up a Dremel, & cut the bolts. It'll help you diagnostically, plus... once you have a Dremel, there are times when you wonder how you got by without one. And it's not as if they're pricey. Just make sure to get a stack of extra cutting wheels, & a full accessory kit when you buy it. There are a LOT of handy attachments in said accessory kit.

Cheechako · 20-12-2014, 15:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Just bite the bullet, pick up a Dremel, & cut the bolts. It'll help you diagnostically, plus... once you have a Dremel, there are times when you wonder how you got by without one. And it's not as if they're pricey. Just make sure to get a stack of extra cutting wheels, & a full accessory kit when you buy it. There are a LOT of handy attachments in said accessory kit.

Yeah... better get a bucket full! they seem to explode everytime I try to use one! Do they sell some kind of fiber impregnated ones?