Damaged from non use?

[boatbod]

Ho-lee-chit. I've seen some neglect on my time around boat yards, but that one is impressive.

Can you turn the engine over?
Is there water in the oil pan or transmission?

If it's surface rust then it can be repaired. If it's water penetration then forget it.

[fryewe]

After seeing the photo of the engine, I recommend you:

- clean the engine. Take your time and inspect for deep corrosion as you go. Surface corrosion is a nuisance but not fatal to the engine.
- especially check hose clamps to see if they have cut into the hoses, and to make sure they are still intact. They are under tension, and the screws are frequently not SS...prone to rusting badly with a leak such as is evident on this engine...and as a result the bands can snap due to stress corrosion cracking. Replace any badly rusted or damaged clamps.
- pay special attention to the exhaust riser. Check its bottom side.
- pull the alternator and take it to an electrical shop for testing. Clean behind it. Do the same with the starter if it looks as bad as the alternator.
- check the engine wiring to make sure rodents haven't been chewing on it. Check to make sure they haven't built a nest on the engine.
- when the engine is wiped or brushed clean, spray the rusted areas with surface rust with dilute phosphorous acid. It is sold under a variety of names at auto parts stores as "rust remover" or something similar. It will convert the red rust chemically as evidenced by forming a light gray powder that can be brushed away, or to a black adherent surface coating that will resist further corrosion. Put rags under the engine to absorb any drips and remove them and discard them after the engine has dried. Let the rust converter sit overnight, then brush away any loose material. Then spray with a dilute baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. You may need and want to do this more than once, depending on the depth of the corrosion.

Then take the steps I described in my earlier post to see if the engine will run.

[Island Time O25]

When I got my first boat (25 year old 27 footer at $400 purchase price) it had the original Volvo one banger, MD5A engine which sat winterized but unused for about 5-6 years. A friend of a friend who happened to be a diesel mechanic stopped by to check the boat out and the engine fired right up. It looked even worse than the OPs engine but still gave me 4 seasons of faithful service and only conked out due to my inexperience in maintaining it properly. I still have its alternator and starter as spares.

My subsequent experience with old diesels and that of my marine pro friends is that if the engine was running when last used and properly winterized at the last lay up the years on the hard are not as destructive on it as on the rest of the boat systems. even if they look like s&*t. The key to it is "properly winterized". Most such engines which can't be started after a few years on the hard were not OK to begin with when put away or were not winterized properly, if at all.

[seabreez]

Originally Posted by hobopacket

I say see for yourself. I have had sooooo many people and mechanics tell me things I didn't end up needing at all. Suburu dealer told me a new head gasket was needed. Come to find out, my water pump wasn't giving enough pressure. Change all the fluids, clean up the fuel system and give it a whirl.

I would try and fill all oil water levels and run the engines for a few hours. Warm them up good and re evaluate the situation. If seals are the problem... have them replaced... better than the whole transmission. I did my two transmission and replaced the seals in both and they are back in and run great.

[Alberg37yawl]

Yea, my plan is to bring her to life with new batteries, change all fluids and see where I stand. I have a good feeling that it will be fine.

[Dennis.G]

Take a wrench to end of fresh water pump and make sure it will rotate as may be rusted in place and will just slip belt on startup. Install new raw water pump impeller, well lubed. Change all fluids. Then see if it will start.

[Dennis.G]

Might also rotate crankshaft a full rotation with wrench before using starter motor to free up pistons.

[Alberg37yawl]

Just wanted to follow up on this posting in case anyone was curious. I got the full estimate on the engine swap out.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Alberg37yawl

Just wanted to follow up on this posting in case anyone was curious. I got the full estimate on the engine swap out.

Wow! That's a lot! $2310 labor only to replace hoses associated with the engine and strainers? I want that job...

[Captain Puget]

I would budget at least 20% overrun. Especially from a Yanmar dealer.

Again, Yanmar is Not a good retrofit choice (major focus is new boats, and the dealers are not retrofit focused) ... strongly suggest getting Beta / Univeral bids and carefully look at ongoing maintenance costs and warranty coverage clauses (Yanmar requires dealer to do all work, or voids warranty) = $$$$

[Diesel Bill]

Before doing any work on the engine make sure it has oil in the sump at proper level. loosen fan belt and remove it. Hook up a good battery and see if the engine will crank over. Don't try to start it. Just let it turn a couple of revolutions. If it cranks over good. Now you can do all the other stuff that was mentioned earlier.
I have started old marine diesels that have been laying out in the yard for many years, covered only with an old tarp. If the engine was good before more than likely it's still O.K. If it's not seized and cranks over chances are good it will run after doing all the servicing. You can use a small jug of fresh fuel with the lift pump suction dipped in it to bypass old fuel in the tank.

[Pendragon35]

Welcome to the forum. I have no advice about your engine, other than I would have a diesel mechanic look at it. I have an Alberg 35; great boats. There is a (mostly inactive) Alberg forum here, hope you'll join. I'd love to see some pictures.

[Alberg37yawl]

Originally Posted by Captain Puget

I would budget at least 20% overrun. Especially from a Yanmar dealer.

Again, Yanmar is Not a good retrofit choice (major focus is new boats, and the dealers are not retrofit focused) ... strongly suggest getting Beta / Univeral bids and carefully look at ongoing maintenance costs and warranty coverage clauses (Yanmar requires dealer to do all work, or voids warranty) = $$$$

Thanks again, I have no intention on putting in a Yanmar. I will be going with a Beta marine engine. I spoke with one of the guys at Beta and they recommend the Beta 30 for the Alberg 37 stating that with the position of the prop in the water more HP will only try and push the stern out of the water. I was leaning toward the Beta 38 but now I am not so sure, if its worth it or if it will be a waste of money, if the extra HP will be wasted. I will most likely pull the old engine clean it and sell it.

[boatbod]

Originally Posted by Captain Puget

I would budget at least 20% overrun. Especially from a Yanmar dealer.

Again, Yanmar is Not a good retrofit choice (major focus is new boats, and the dealers are not retrofit focused) ... strongly suggest getting Beta / Univeral bids and carefully look at ongoing maintenance costs and warranty coverage clauses (Yanmar requires dealer to do all work, or voids warranty) = $$$$

Nonsense. Some Yanmar dealers specialize in repowers. What exactly makes the engines themselves "not a good retrofit choice"? The only warranty requirement is for a dealer to do the initial startup and 50hr inspection. After that do your own work at will.

[Alberg37yawl]

Just in case anyone was interested I thought I would give a little follow up on the Alberg 37. I had her towed to a DIY marina where I began the process of cleaning and bringing her back to life. I received nothing but good news from the new marina. The mechanic at the new marina almost spazzed when I told him I was thinking of doing an engine swap. He said the engine is in great shape just suffering surface corrosion. He advised me to get to work on it with wire brushes and to douse the engine with WD-40 to stop the corrosion. Oil was clean and fresh, no signs of any rust or corrosion anywhere inside the engine. The mechanic said he was about 99% sure she would fire right up. Going to do a service on the fuel system and crank this bad boy up

P.S Also found a brand new Katadyn Powersurvivor 80 E Watermaker Desalinator that was not listed in the sale information. Thats about $5,000 worth of free water maker. Yea I had a great day.