Diesel Engine - Sea Foam and Marvel Mystery oil

[Captain Graham]

This year I purchased a 1980 Watkins 27 with a Westerbeke 20B TWO 18HP Engine.

The PO did change the oil ever year just before winter storage but he did not run the engine for more then 15 mins to get in and out of his slip.
He owned her for 9 years.

I will be moving her 100 miles to my marina in a few weeks and looking to run the diesel engine for about 5 hours straight to burn off some of the carbon buildup and loosen some of the sludge in the oil.

I was thinking I would
1. Change the oil / oil filter and also put the recommended about to MMO into the oil.
2. Start the engine and let it warm up.
3. Shut down the engine and remove the external fuel filter.
4. Check the filter to see the fuel has any fuel bug issues.
5. Fill the fuel filter about 1/3 with Sea Foam.
6. Start the engine again and run for 1-2 mins to get the sea foam into the injectors and cylinders
7. Put the recommended amount of Sea Foam into the fuel tank.
8. The next day start the engine and do the 100 mile trip with 5 hours of running the engine at 2,500 RPMs (cruising speed)
9. Once I arrive change the oil and see if any sludge is removed.

What do you think of my plan?

PS Before the trip I will
1. Back flush the Raw water system
2. Flush and replace the coolant.
3. Opening up the end cap on the heat exchange and look for any broken off impeller blades.
4. Check all the raw water hoses for broken impeller blades.
5. Replace the impeller.
6. Install new Zinc
7. New Transmission fluid.
8. Install new external and engine mounted fuel filters
9. Replace the thermostat.

[skipperpete]

That sounds like a very thorough pre departure service and the only thing I’m not clear about is the seafoam. I’ve never used it or heard reviews of it either positive or negative. I would take a 20litre of clean diesel, spare filters and enough fuel hose to connect the extra fuel supply.... and plan for 20 hrs of engine use just in case of a prolonged calm.
Clean the propeller and give er a sea trial with a fair bit of power to shake out the bugs before you set out for the delivery.... and enjoy the trip. !

[Compass790]

Agree with skipperpete, especially the part about seatrial at least part of it at WOT. Keep an eye on all the gauges ( assuming it has oil pressure & temp) whilst at WOT. That should make any issues apparent.
I dont know about the additives either.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Captain Graham

This year I purchased a 1980 Watkins 27 with a Westerbeke 20B TWO 18HP Engine.

The PO did change the oil ever year just before winter storage but he did not run the engine for more then 15 mins to get in and out of his slip.
He owned her for 9 years.

I will be moving her 100 miles to my marina in a few weeks and looking to run the diesel engine for about 5 hours straight to burn off some of the carbon buildup and loosen some of the sludge in the oil.

I was thinking I would
1. Change the oil / oil filter and also put the recommended about to MMO into the oil.
2. Start the engine and let it warm up.
3. Shut down the engine and remove the external fuel filter.
4. Check the filter to see the fuel has any fuel bug issues.
5. Fill the fuel filter about 1/3 with Sea Foam.
6. Start the engine again and run for 1-2 mins to get the sea foam into the injectors and cylinders
7. Put the recommended amount of Sea Foam into the fuel tank.
8. The next day start the engine and do the 100 mile trip with 5 hours of running the engine at 2,500 RPMs (cruising speed)
9. Once I arrive change the oil and see if any sludge is removed.

What do you think of my plan?

PS Before the trip I will
1. Back flush the Raw water system
2. Flush and replace the coolant.
3. Opening up the end cap on the heat exchange and look for any broken off impeller blades.
4. Check all the raw water hoses for broken impeller blades.
5. Replace the impeller.
6. Install new Zinc
7. New Transmission fluid.
8. Install new external and engine mounted fuel filters
9. Replace the thermostat.

LOL I'm in the same boat - literally... Bought an '81 but with a Yanmar 20 GM about 2 weeks ago. My 'snafu' - boat is on an unregistered trailer, can't legally move her 'til I get that cleared up. But now to your situation:

First - I'd switch items 1 and 2. Run the engine til up to operating temp then change the oil and filter. If the engine's been sitting a lot of 'stuff' probably settled out, you actually want that in suspension when you change the oil.

Sorry but, what is MMO?

Second - item 4. Unless the filter is new, I'd just change it.

Third - Item 5. Nope.

Fourth - Item 6. Absolutely not!

Sea-Foam is great stuff; it is not fuel. While I don't know it's volatility compared to diesel. if it's higher (and I'm pretty sure it is) you may damage (as in blow) the engine. While a half strainer may not seem like much, the amount the injectors put into the combustion chamber is minuscule, and the engine could run for minutes on what's in the bowl.

By all means, put Sea-Foam in the fuel, and even a little in the crank case oil. Then change the oil and filter again when you reach your destination.

On the 'P.S.' list.

Carry spares. Last thing you want is to be 50 miles into the trip and have an impeller take a **** or break a belt, clog a filter etc.

You don't say anything about fuel. If it's old I'd add a biocide and a conditioner (I like Power Service) in addition to the SEA-Foam. If it's really old I'd replace it with fresh. Also if you can run a premium grade of diesel, that's even better!

Also, I would not run up to cruising speed RPM's right away. I would run at least an hour a lesser speed and monitor the engine, then run up to cruising speed. I would also vary the speed enroute and not just make the trip at 2500. Think of it like breaking in a new engine. Towards the end of the trip I' go ahead and open her up and run max throttle for brief periods. By that time the Sea-Foam will have had time to work it's magic and you will be able to blow out the carbon.

[skipperpete]

I assumed MMO to be the lube oil additive “molybdenum disulphide”. If thats what Captain Graham meant, it’s one of the only things I’d trust in the lube oil.... maybe the only thing.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

I assumed MMO to be the lube oil additive “molybdenum disulphide”. If thats what Captain Graham meant, it’s one of the only things I’d trust in the lube oil.... maybe the only thing.

Na cobber, think he's talking about marvel mystery oil, never seen it downunder but I'm guessing.
Dont think he'd be expecting moly to do any cleaning, if he is it will be only wallet cleaning sadly.
EDIT, I'm not guessing apparently, just noticed it's in the thread title

[skipperpete]

ahhhhh! Thanks for that compass790. I’ll do a bit of research on the MMO.

[NYSail]

Thank your list is a good one. Agree that you should let engine run prior to changing oil to stir things up. My last boat (yanmar 3HM35f) was not well taken care of…… I did most of you list, however initially I did a double oil change. Ran her till hot, changed oil, then took her for a quick ride, then changed oil and filter again. Lots of stuff came out of the second change!
Greg

[NYSail]

Bye the sea foam is great stuff. I also added it to that engine and it made her idle smoothly and significantly better performance.

Greg

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Na cobber, think he's talking about marvel mystery oil... just noticed it's in the thread title

Duh, me too

Guess I should learn to read the whole title of a posting

But thanks!

[svfinlandia]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Na cobber, think he's talking about marvel mystery oil, never seen it downunder but I'm guessing.
Dont think he'd be expecting moly to do any cleaning, if he is it will be only wallet cleaning sadly.
EDIT, I'm not guessing apparently, just noticed it's in the thread title

Yep, says Marvel Mystery Oil in the total of the thread.

Al, S/V Finlandia

[garyfdl]

I have always held that additives are engine 'snake-oil' and did little or nothing for the user, while generating big profits for the manufacturer. But I admit, I like Sea-Foam and have had good results from it. In our cars, I add it to the engine oil about 500 miles prior to an oil change. I also throw a few ounces in the fuel tank every couple of fill ups or before a long trip. And I now buy it by the gallon (lasts about 6 mos).

Our 'Swedish tractor' ('06 Volvo XC70) was giving me an intermittent check engine warning / P0027 code (I think) which was an exhaust timing valve malfunction. I dumped some Sea-Foam into the engine and the warning cleared. The Volvo also has a element type oil filter, canister is reusable. There is more 'debris'/gunk in the canister when I use Sea-Foam than when I didn't. So it definitely is doing something...

I have no experience with MMO (now that I know what it is ) although it has been around for as long as I can remember.

[Jetx]

If you can access the inside of the fuel tank to inspect/clean it, it would be good to do that before leaving. If you can’t see inside, but can find a way to get a suction hose down to the bottom of the tank (say through the fuel gauge sender hole) you can suck out the old fuel while swishing the hose around to get an indication of possible bug or other solids contamination.

Also, you can do part of your sea trial while in the slip. You don’t want to run at WOT while tied to the dock (as engine would likely be overloaded), but you can run in-gear for a few hours at various RPMs and monitor temperature, cooling water flow, smoke or steam in exhaust etc. At least at the dock, if it shows signs of overheating, makes worrisome noises, or you blow a hose, you can shut down or cool down and won’t need a tow . Then change and inspect oil as you planned.

You may also need to flush the fresh water circuit more than once of you see any signs of rust or foreign material after running for a while.

Finally, check the exhaust elbow for carbon buildup or rust/salt blockage.

EDIT: And as stated above, DO NOT put Sea Foam in the filter bowl! It’s mostly Naptha or white gas, so you’d be putting a much more volatile fuel directly into a compression-ignition engine. Good chance something will go bang in a very expensive manner. It’s fine to use Sea Foam mixed in the fuel tank at the recommended doses, but don’t run straight sea foam in a diesel.

[Scrimshaw4]

I would recommend completely cleaning out the heat exchanger with Muriatic Acid. Out side the boat if possible due to the fumes. BTW I've used a non fuming muriatic acid, Acid Magic, and it works great. Little more expensive but totally worth it. Available at local hardware stores.
Rest of the list looks pretty good. If you'll be out of the water before you go then I'd also recommend Speed Prop and another coat or two of bottom paint. JMHO

[Ken Z]

Sounds like a good plan. It would be great to pump the bottom of the fuel tank, see whats in there. Take extra fuel filters, 4+, and a five gallon of diesel and a long enough fuel line, just in case. Wrenches for your stuffing box. I would be easy on the engine most of the trip because of carbon build up inside the engine. Some engine tolerances could be compromised and stress the engine, get there then worry about blowing it out.