Diesel Engines with direct raw water cooling

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

.........
Speaking of acid, a post mentioned muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is just another name for hydrochloric acid. But there are big differences in strengths; in Europe it is highly diluted, but in the US it is generally stronger. I used the European version to keep the head plumbing clear of scale, but the US version needs to be diluted for that application. I'm sorry I don't remember the actual strengths but I do remember that they are quite different.

Greg

Interesting - FWIW, all the hydrochloric (muriatic) acid I have seen sold in Australia is 33%. Other concentrations may be available but I haven't looked for such.

[CarinaPDX]

Apparently concentrations can reach at least 37% but in the US 31% seems common. In the UK it is easy to find anything from 6% to 18% but the 30%+ is less common. After using the UK version the fumes coming out of a 31% bottle are a nasty surprise...

Greg

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by Wotname

It's an age related tipo thingie...

You youngsters might say it is a typo for bilge pump .

I was thinking it must be an Auzzie phrase for a small quick pump...!

LittleWing77

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by LittleWing77

I was thinking it must be an Auzzie phrase for a small quick pump...!

LittleWing77

Well it is actually!

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Drain and rinse with fresh water and then replace the anodes (with new ones), remove the bypass plug and refit original hoses.

The catch is that the stock anodes are zinc which is totally useless in the OP's fresh water locale. I've never heard of aluminum or magnesium anodes being available for these engines and these are whats required for fresh water.

[Compass790]

Just get a bit of magnesium rod & a 6mm ss stud & make yr own.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Cast-iron lasts a long time in fresh water even without anodes but I'd certainly fit one.