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Old 18-07-2011, 15:57   #1
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Diesel Filtering Changes

I am redoing the filtering for my Yanmar - I am contemplating installing two 'primary' Racor filters - 30 micron and 2 micron feeding to the Yanmar secondary filter (which I understand is a 2-10-30 micron filter depending on who is telling):

1: Where do you mount these primary filters
2: can you plumb in one vacuum gauge to cover both filters
3: as part of the belt and suspenders crowd - should I look at three 'primary filters 30-10-2
4: how many spare filter cartridges of each type should I carry

Or am I completely NUTS

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Old 18-07-2011, 16:11   #2
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Re: Diesel filtering changes

Follow the Yanmar recommendations for filter type and change frequency. They are the experts with expereince over millions of engines. If you install filters before the Yanmar filter you should place the gauge just after those filters. The engine mounted filter should, in theory, rarely need changing. I avoid changing the second filter because of the always present chance of dirt slipping by during the change. And likewise that second filter will catch whatever might slip by the first during the change (like bits of paint off the cheezy units that were once made by Racor)
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Old 18-07-2011, 16:56   #3
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Re: Diesel filtering changes

If you want to put 2 filters in series before the engine filter I would suggest a 30 micron and 10 micron. The on engine filter may be 2 micron or it may be 10 depending on engine specs. What most people do is put dual, switchable filters before the engine. Then if one is getting plugged they switch to the other. It gives them some time before they need to change the filter.

Personally I like the switchable filter idea best, but I also like the idea of a fuel polishing system completely separate from the engine fuel hose/tubing and filter system.
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Old 18-07-2011, 17:11   #4
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Re: Diesel filtering changes

When I'm away from reliable diesel supplies almost all fuel comes to my boat in my own jugs and then gets poured into the tanks through a filter. I think that is an important way to prevent problems in the first place. I think the ultimate would be two 30 micron primaries with a valve for switching between the two, but I think one is adequate for most sailboats. Another option I have heard of, but have never tried, is to get a bracket that holds two big canister truck filters, like you would find in a big truck. These filters just screw on like oil filters, are relatively cheap, can be quite efficient if you choose the right ones, and should be available anywhere in the world there are diesel engines.
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Old 18-07-2011, 17:22   #5
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Re: Diesel filtering changes

Napa sells filters like Kettlewell describes I have one on my polishing system The only down side is you can not see what junk that is captured
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Old 18-07-2011, 17:46   #6
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Re: Diesel filtering changes

Motion 30 is right that you can't see what is in the filter, but there are some brands available with a drain tap on the bottom--I think Cummins Fleetguard and Baldwin make filters with drain taps--probably others too. On my boat I can't really get a good look at the bottom of the Racor anyway, so I drain off a bit into a glass jar occasionally to see what it looks like.
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Old 21-07-2011, 11:40   #7
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

I made up a 2 stage system with a big Fleetguard 30micron filter before a Racor500 10 micron for my 3YM30. The Fleetguard is huge and has a drain. I got the filter head at a truck part shop and fittings at a Parker Hydraulic shop. I have a vacuum guage on the Racor and added a fuel bulb which I can isolate from the system when I don't use it to bleed the fuel lines. It is foolish overkill but I tend not to worry about clogged filters as much...
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Old 21-07-2011, 12:09   #8
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

You dont need 2 micron, in fact I have been told by diesel mechanics not to use them. 5 is plenty small and realistically 10 is ok. two primary filters is plenty, and realistically, you are more robust with one on the engine and two primary's valved in parallel. That way if you have a fuel problem, you can switch to the other without stopping.
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Old 21-07-2011, 13:31   #9
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

I agree with Cheech... Have 2 Racors in parallel - only use the second if there is a problem underway. Then you can switch to the backup and deal with the other when you can.
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Old 21-07-2011, 13:53   #10
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

Quote:
5 is plenty small and realistically 10 is ok
Not according to articles I have read by Steve D'Antonio who has researched this a lot. Apparently the particles that cause the most damage in the injection system are between 5 and 10 microns. Smaller than 5 pass through the system and larger than 10 tend to get filtered out. Tier 2 engines are probably different and may require 2 micron filters as the primary (on engine) filter. Engine manufacturers refer to the on engine filter as the primary filter, although many mechanics and sailors refer to the first filter in line from the fuel tank as primary.
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Old 21-07-2011, 14:02   #11
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

Don't do what I did! I bought the filter, valves and parts to install a second Racor 500 filter (switchable from one to the other), but didn't measure. When I tried to install this two weeks ago, I wasn't able to find a spot in my engine bay for the second filter and valves... the parts are now for sale in the classified section
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Old 21-07-2011, 16:39   #12
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

Yeah...it's amazing how much room the whole assembly takes up, then again, you dont really have to put them together... but it's "tidier"
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Old 21-07-2011, 16:46   #13
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

At the Mack Boring class I took, Larry suggested a 30 primary 'to catch the 2x4s' and the engine mounted (10) to catch everything else.

2 may filter too much and clog or dramatically slow down flow, causing other issues.

I think keeping it simple is best. My boat has the racor mounted on the bulkhead, feeding the engine mounted filter.

Been working well
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Old 21-07-2011, 16:52   #14
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomracer View Post
At the Mack Boring class I took, Larry suggested a 30 primary 'to catch the 2x4s' and the engine mounted (10) to catch everything else.

2 may filter too much and clog or dramatically slow down flow, causing other issues.

I think keeping it simple is best. My boat has the racor mounted on the bulkhead, feeding the engine mounted filter.

Been working well
Yeah...I'm guilt of overthinking this a couple of times for sure. I'd forget the vacuum gauge on anything less than 75 HP or so. The flow is so slow really. Maybe put it in if you suspect tank degradation or contamination...but in that case... you should really be solving that problem because filters wont save you for long!
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Old 21-07-2011, 17:26   #15
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Re: Diesel Filtering Changes

The best upgrade I've ever made on my boat was installing a Dual Racor system. It's pricey, but the first time you change filters you'll appreciate that every penny was worth it.
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