Disconnecting and removing old engine

[Justin_]

Hi, I just thought I'd post a quick question on removing an old engine. I'm re-powering my 43 foot boat with a new Nanni in a couple of weeks and to save myself a bit of money I've decided to remove the old one ready for the mechanic to install the new one. I'm removing an old Westerbeke W40 and was just wondering if there were any major things to look out for? The layout of the boat is pretty good for removing the engine, she's a centre cockpit and there is a hatch directly above the engine bay so the crane can hoist it from directly above and straight out(in theory) I will just have to remove the steering wheel and pedestal which I have never done so if you have any tips or things to watch out for in regard to that? My plan is to disconnect/isolate batteries first drain fluids, have tape to label everything maybe to help the mechanic, take pics. If anyone has any advice or things you wish you knew before removing an engine that would be a big help. Cheers.

[Tomodore]

Protect the woodwork on the path with cheap material like doorskin

[Manateeman]

Rebuild the pedestal, replace the control cables, exhaust hose...do as much as you can when you have the space to work. Tanks...water heater...whatever is behind or under or near the engine. Including all the running gear...shaft, shaft log..stuffing box...now is the time.
Happy trails to you.
The manatee crew.

[Justin_]

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely have a thorough look at what’s around the engine bay that will be hard to access once the new one is in. I know disconnecting an engine is straight forward but I know there are going to be gotcha moments that you only learn from doing.

[CarinaPDX]

You can raise the engine out using a 4-part purchase and a winch, or possibly just the winch through turning blocks. Attach them to the boom, and support the boom at the same point with a topping lift or halyard. I would loosen the transmission bolts first, then when the engine is clear of the shaft/flange remove the transmission from the back of the engine - it will make the lifting a bit easier. Definitely take the opportunity to clean under the engine. You will probably have to modify the bedlogs for the new engine, and once that is done paint or gelcoat before dropping the new engine in place. As others have said, get jobs done that are easier with the more open access. Also you will be replacing the instruments and engine wiring harness so remove them. There may need to be other upgrades that will need doing, such as larger exhaust hose, larger fuel lines, a diesel return line to the tank if you don't have one. Also consider whether the electrical system is on the same side of the engine as before, and if not make any changes for easy connection. Same for the fuel system. (My new engine was opposite the old one, which actually allowed me to rearrange and shorten both fuel and electrical connections). Your existing engine control may be good for the new engine, but take the time to clean, inspect, and lube it, then use new morse cables with the new engine. If your existing controls are incompatible or not to your liking then mount a new one before the install. Also I would take the opportunity to replace the cooling water hoses (rubber hoses don't last forever) and confirm that your existing supply is large enough for the new engine. If your engine is plumbed to the hot water heater you may have to remove a couple of plugs on the new engine and install hose barbs, although this can be done during the install. In the process don't forget to buy spare impellers for the new engine's pump. Personally I removed the slotted round head screws that held the pump cover down and replaced with slotted hex head screws - much easier to remove with a socket or nut driver. Finally my new engine has minimum ventilation requirements so I installed an upgraded electrical ventilation system.

Lots to think about - good luck.

Greg

[sailingchiro]

Remove as many parts on the engine prior to taking it out. It will reduce the size substantially. Alternators, exhaust manifold, air filter and ductwork, starter, transmission, etc. It will also limit the weight. Remove the hatch/frame and protect the fiberglass with several layers of duct tape around the hatch opening. Please remove al fluids. When you tilt the engine to get through hatch, you will find out if all fluids are out.

After we stripped down all the parts off our engines, they were light enough to carry them out. We had planned to go thru the hatches.

[Justin_]

Thanks again for the advice, the engine is disconnected, fluids drained now I’m on to taking the steering pedestal and cable out. I’ve used green and red tape to keep track of the two cables orientation. I’m thinking I have to disconnect the cable all the way back at the rudder(centre cockpit so that’s a ways back) and pull it through from there.. that’s a lot of cable. because the bottom of the chain where the cable connects doesn’t come all the way down from inside the pedestal for me to reach even when the wheel is turned all the way either way.

[Hinkmon]

Wondering how you made out with your repower. I am Considering a repower myself. did you check out Beta. Wondering why you did not choose the beta.

[Justin_]

Originally Posted by Hinkmon

Wondering how you made out with your repower. I am Considering a repower myself. did you check out Beta. Wondering why you did not choose the beta.

Hey Hinkmon, we haven't actually finished the repower yet. Not because there were any major surprises or hiccups, we have been waiting on a prop for about a month which just turned up the other day. I will be updating my post once the repower is finished with a thorough walkthrough of the process along with some things I have learned so stay tuned. To answer your question about the brand of engine, I ended up going with a Nanni. My reasoning for this was going into this repower, I wanted to make everything as streamline and cost effective as possible and one of the bigger costs that I wanted to avoid was re-bedding the engine. So I took the measurements of the old westerbeke mounts and searched all the manufacturer's websites for an engine with the same dimensions and it turned out Nanni had a mount conversion kit for I think around $100au. Which worked out perfect, the new engine just sat perfectly on the original engine bed. I ended up going with Marine Diesel Capalaba here in Aus who have been absolutely awesome to deal with. The price of the engine played a small part but really it was negligible. The Nanni cost about $16,000 au and the Yanmar I priced was around $18,000. Also I couldn't find a local Beta dealer in my area so I didn't really pursue that any further. I will include the final cost in detail when its finished as I don't know how much the install cost which I will be interested how much I saved by doing a few things myself. Anyways look back here in a week or so for a full in depth walkthrough of the repower. Cheers, Justin.

[Justin_]

Couple of pics in the meantime.

[goboatingnow]

I’ve owned Nanni engines. Very well put together. Usually Kubota block. Better then Beta.

[EngineerRetired]

Originally Posted by sailingchiro

Remove as many parts on the engine prior to taking it out. It will reduce the size substantially. Alternators, exhaust manifold, air filter and ductwork, starter, transmission, etc. It will also limit the weight. Remove the hatch/frame and protect the fiberglass with several layers of duct tape around the hatch opening. Please remove al fluids. When you tilt the engine to get through hatch, you will find out if all fluids are out.

After we stripped down all the parts off our engines, they were light enough to carry them out. We had planned to go thru the hatches.

Agree 100%. Makes the entire process so much easier and pain free. Even if its being lifted with a crane it will be a LOT easier to manipulate and control.

[maine50]

to "goboating now"- could you elaborate why Nanni in your opinion is better than Beta.-Thanks

[skipperpete]

Thanks for the update Justin, nice looking engine, excellent flex coupling[emoji736]

[malbert73]

Looks nearly identical (except for color ) to our Beta 50. Probably same Kubota block- what HP is yours?