DIY Injection Pump Rebuild

[Charlie]

I was quite surprised how easy it was to do the injectors themselves. The only specialized tool that was needed was the pop tester. Everything else were tools common to a DIY mechanic. Forgot one other tool I used was the bore cleaner for a 12 gauge shotgun to get some particuilarly bad carbon build up out. I'll report back at the 10k mile mark but the re were no leaks so far and the engine runs a lot better.

As far as the injection pump goes I'm afraid to even remove it myself.

[Celestialsailor]

Astrid...That was pretty cool. Although there are 100 steps, it shows that it can still be done... and excuse me...I don't see any "special tools" or any parts made out of unobtainium. Like I said prior, the injectors themselves are straight forward. And like mentioned by others, I would send my pump in if I could. Still if your stuck somewhere remote enough, it is either sail out or repair the pump. Not a scenario that I care to find myself in. I have always attempted to do all my own repairs if I could. It certainly builds knowledge and shows personal limitations. But if you don't try, you don't know.

[S/V_Surya]

Originally Posted by Astrid

This might give an idea of what is involved in the injector pump rebuild, however the author states:

Note: This article does not explain how to replace the shaft bearing or how to set internal pressure. It is only a cleanup and resealing guide.

Bosch diesel injection pump rebuild

Yeah, this is what I am looking for. I need to replace the seals.

[Charlie]

+1 Astrid. Once again proving you are not just a pretty face. I am tempted to try this on my spare engine for the mercedes.

[Tellie]

There's an old saying that applies well to injection pumps."Let those who know what they are doing do it". Save your money elsewhere.

[Seahunter]

On a Perkins, yeah; NO. You'll need to spend at least 2 Gs for the tools (forget about the 20 years of experience). Did I say "NO"? Don't be cheap, spend the $600 and get it done right.

[S/V_Surya]

I looked at the hundred step rebuild link and yes it was very informative ( informative enough to confirm my suspicions). I know I do not have the time or patience to do this myself. I am a component type person, starter, alternator replace not rebuild (myself).

[btrayfors]

On a 4-108, don't even think of rebuilding the injection pump yourself. The equipment necessary for a professional job costs over $20K, and it takes someone with specialized training and experience to do it right.

The injectors...maybe. But not the injection pump. Much more difficult.

Bill

[Celestialsailor]

I'm going to send my pump to Astrid...

[Mark Zarley]

Make sure you time the pump before removing, this will save you a lot of time when you re-install. Install dust caps on all fittings. I clean out the inj lines with spray carburator cleaner before re-installing, it evaporates fast and leaves it very clean but will soften painted surfaces. As you remove the pump the timing mark on the pump will move, this is due to the slant or set in the gear teeth, make a note of how many teeth it moves out of time so you can pre-set it when re-installing. On the dilution of your eng oil, my Lehmans have an excess fuel return line inside the valve cover, if the individual fittings leak you get fuel in oil. Don't know if that woiuld apply to you. The perkins eng were used in a lot of construction equip, and were known for their long life.

[phorvati]

It can be done, its just a matter of what you are willing to go through. I think you can re-build parts of it or at least understand the operational details to fix stuff yourself. Mine is a CAV DPA with mechanical governor.
I thought of it as a "re-build" first time I looked at it, 'cause to me it was a black box. But then i saw what people were paying for a "re-build" and I decided to spend time understanding how stuff works inside and gathering tools required to "re-build" and calibrate the pump when you don't have access to mechanics or pump shop(like in the middle of the ocean)
Here is what I found so far...
I think the governor springs and shafts, metering valve, fuel shut off, and all the stuff on top of the pump can be dismantled and checked while replacing seals, gaskets, springs etc relatively easy w/o disturbing things so long as you put the settings back following the manual.
Transfer pump, its regulation valve, banjos, and advance mechanism can be dismantled and checked while replacing stuff as needed.
Advance tool can be bought for around 200-300$. And it would be for checking advance during calibration if it turns out you need to do anything with it.

Inside the rotor/head assembly, you can inspect the plungers(2 opposing), rollers and roller shoes/cams and replace as necessary. Sometimes plungers get stuck from sitting too long.
Part of the rotor assembly is the drive plate, and top/bottom adjusting plates. These are calibrated for certain amount of fuel delivery, b/c they set the stroke of the plungers. I am not gona mess with it since it would require me to measure cubic centimeter delivery, cc per 200 shots for each of the RPM settings in the calibration procedure. It is still possible to set this up at home, if you wanna do that, and perhaps adjusting this setting would solve your problem of too much fuel.
Spanner tool and ratchet adapter to disassemble the hub I found each for 160$, and i am yet to decide if I wanna take a look at governor weights and the drive hub components.

I'll post few documents I found that describe all this later on today(should anyone decide to take this route).
I am in the process of re-building the westerbeke 40 (4.108 block) so my thought is I can either do the calibration of the pump while I do test run of the motor in march, or I setup a DIY bench test for calibrating parts of the injection pump before then.

[bobconnie]

Again!!!! make SURE you use a chisel to mark the current installed position of the pump!!and watch the rotation as its removed !! Ive had folks remove them and have to Pay to have someone reinstall the pump!! the perks are wonderfull long lived engines,but are oldfashioned and a little hard to repair with out proper testing tools !! so save yourself some bucks and get it done right the first time !!

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by phorvati

It can be done, its just a matter of what you are willing to go through. I think you can re-build parts of it or at least understand the operational details to fix stuff yourself. Mine is a CAV DPA with mechanical governor.
I thought of it as a "re-build" first time I looked at it, 'cause to me it was a black box. But then i saw what people were paying for a "re-build" and I decided to spend time understanding how stuff works inside and gathering tools required to "re-build" and calibrate the pump when you don't have access to mechanics or pump shop(like in the middle of the ocean)
Here is what I found so far...
I think the governor springs and shafts, metering valve, fuel shut off, and all the stuff on top of the pump can be dismantled and checked while replacing seals, gaskets, springs etc relatively easy w/o disturbing things so long as you put the settings back following the manual.
Transfer pump, its regulation valve, banjos, and advance mechanism can be dismantled and checked while replacing stuff as needed.
Advance tool can be bought for around 200-300$. And it would be for checking advance during calibration if it turns out you need to do anything with it.

Inside the rotor/head assembly, you can inspect the plungers(2 opposing), rollers and roller shoes/cams and replace as necessary. Sometimes plungers get stuck from sitting too long.
Part of the rotor assembly is the drive plate, and top/bottom adjusting plates. These are calibrated for certain amount of fuel delivery, b/c they set the stroke of the plungers. I am not gona mess with it since it would require me to measure cubic centimeter delivery, cc per 200 shots for each of the RPM settings in the calibration procedure. It is still possible to set this up at home, if you wanna do that, and perhaps adjusting this setting would solve your problem of too much fuel.
Spanner tool and ratchet adapter to disassemble the hub I found each for 160$, and i am yet to decide if I wanna take a look at governor weights and the drive hub components.

I'll post few documents I found that describe all this later on today(should anyone decide to take this route).
I am in the process of re-building the westerbeke 40 (4.108 block) so my thought is I can either do the calibration of the pump while I do test run of the motor in march, or I setup a DIY bench test for calibrating parts of the injection pump before then.

This was exactly my point...if you're in the middle of the ocean and HAD to work on it. You need to be able to work well with your hands...not everyone can but that doesn't mean the folks that can should not try. Another suggestion is to buy a used back-up pump and set of injectors. As a matter of fact, it would probably be as cheap to by a dead engine for parts. I've seen Perkins 4-108 dead with all new parts on them for less than $1000 on ebay. Yes Bobconnie we got it...mark the pump timing and gear tooth location!

[phorvati]

for those daring enough to tinker with it here is what I found so far

By far the best description on how it works.
http://transportation.centennialcoll...istributor.pdf

The best re-build manual with clearest pics and torque recommendations.
http://www.solidebolide.nl/downloads...ction-pump.pdf

Some CAV Lucas manuals with steps of the calibration procedure:
Index of /manuals

Tools, and pricing...
http://marbedbook.com/4/upload/222_en.pdf
Lucas & Hartridge

[S/V_Surya]

Originally Posted by phorvati

for those daring enough to tinker with it here is what I found so far

By far the best description on how it works.
http://transportation.centennialcoll...istributor.pdf

The best re-build manual with clearest pics and torque recommendations.
http://www.solidebolide.nl/downloads...ction-pump.pdf

Some CAV Lucas manuals with steps of the calibration procedure:
Index of /manuals

Tools, and pricing...
http://marbedbook.com/4/upload/222_en.pdf
Lucas & Hartridge

Excellent information at least I will go into this with a decent amount of knowledge. My previous boat which I had for 20 years (Volvo MD6B as I recall- 2 banger) had pump rebuilt once.
Thanks