Drip Drip Drip! Leaky Banjo Bolt

[jimliznorris]

Hi, surprised someone replied so soon. I was just looking at these:

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as I read where bikers used this type on brake leaks. How did you repair the bad seats or did you just buy a new head or pump? I do not want to remove the CAV pump if possible and will try renewing everthing else first. We are now stopped for the winter here (Fiumicino, Roma in Italy) and not sailing around so easier at the dock. This is us: Trans Atlantic Crossing by Sailboat

[FlyingCloud1937]

Proper way to anneal small parts is to heat em to red hot not white hot.

Then drop em in a tub of 90 weight gear oil.

You can use you water, but it must be boiling.

Cold water is quenching...which hardens the surface, and the colder the water, as well as the larger the volume of water, the harder and deeper the surface hardening.

Lloyd

[FlyingCloud1937]

And if you really need to harden the surface with out distorting the underlying metal, quench it in salt water.

Lloyd

Originally Posted by FlyingCloud1937

Proper way to anneal small parts is to heat em to red hot not white hot.

Then drop em in a tub of 90 weight gear oil.

You can use you water, but it must be boiling.

Cold water is quenching...which hardens the surface, and the colder the water, as well as the larger the volume of water, the harder and deeper the surface hardening.

Lloyd

[charliehows]

I've been annealing copper washers by heating them - usually on a stove element - and just leaving them to cool down ... for at least 40 years, i have rarely had any instances where this did not produce the required seal. Done it on nortons, triumphs, matchlesses, harleys, every type of car, old commer trucks, and now on boat diesels. It's not a particularly good engineering solution to getting a seal in a fuel system IMO but it's one we have to live with on older engines so it is a required skill.