Engine circuit breaker tripping

[Tikka]

It quite obvious, that over current tripping circuit breaker. It is quite elaborate to troubleshoot fault, but there is one quick solution .
Something is faulty and needs replacing , perhaps fixing.
No way around it.
Try my solution, instal 50 Amps breaker and watch the smoke.
Replace/ fix problem. That's how we professional cutting repair time.

[Sardean]

Originally Posted by Tikka

It quite obvious, that over current tripping circuit breaker. It is quite elaborate to troubleshoot fault, but there is one quick solution .
Something is faulty and needs replacing , perhaps fixing.
No way around it.
Try my solution, instal 50 Amps breaker and watch the smoke.
Replace/ fix problem. That's how we professional cutting repair time.

CAUTION the circuit trips after a period of time elapses this is an overload situation, bypassing the circuitbreaker for a long time period may cause damage to the wiring loom , or fire.



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[Scrimshaw4]

Westerbeke diesels run with an electric fuel pump. I have had similar problems with my W 82B4. The breaker will trip due to a bad ground. The wire loom has a plug that connects the engine to the control panel. It's usually close to the engine. The plug connections can corrode causing resistance, This increases the amp draw thru the breaker and it trips. I removed the plug and butt spliced all the loom wires. Solved the problem. Also check the fuel pump wiring integrity and the fuel pump itself for a short.

[Mickeyrouse]

And the winner is:
None of the above.
After considerable trial and error, pursuing all suggested reasonable possibilities ( not including the intentional engine room fire), and considerable jiggling of the wiring, the alarm buzzer came on- indicating the starter was ready to do its thing, and the willing- but- unled engine would follow.
Found a couple places where the wire loom had shifted, thus providing opportunity to chafe against the engine block and/or manifold. Which it did, which grounded, which....- well, you get the picture.
Re-loomed the questionable spots, replaced a small connector to the solenoid which had broken in all the on-and-off, and ran the engine without hiccup for 65 minutes.
Lesson: always look for the simplest thing first. Would have been found if I had checked for continuity from each of the eight terminals in the 8 pin harness connector to the engine circuits. Five minutes max.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Mickeyrouse

And the winner is:
None of the above.
After considerable trial and error, pursuing all suggested reasonable possibilities ( not including the intentional engine room fire), and considerable jiggling of the wiring, the alarm buzzer came on- indicating the starter was ready to do its thing, and the willing- but- unled engine would follow.
Found a couple places where the wire loom had shifted, thus providing opportunity to chafe against the engine block and/or manifold. Which it did, which grounded, which....- well, you get the picture.
Re-loomed the questionable spots, replaced a small connector to the solenoid which had broken in all the on-and-off, and ran the engine without hiccup for 65 minutes.
Lesson: always look for the simplest thing first. Would have been found if I had checked for continuity from each of the eight terminals in the 8 pin harness connector to the engine circuits. Five minutes max.

AWESOME!!!

Congrats on what could have been as easy as it was... Or a tad tougher...

Yea.... so the continuity test mighta been the smartest first route... But you were still going to get grounds there...

[Mickeyrouse]

And the ground(s) would have been what I wanted to know about.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Mickeyrouse

And the ground(s) would have been what I wanted to know about.

Well kinda.... Didn't look at the diagram, but we're talking leads from the harness going to solenoids and motors... All giving ground readings with continuity... start recording/comparing resistance readings and you got sumthin'!

She's purrin'... Time for a beer and a "life is good" moment....

(while you have the chance!)

Thx for the Thx!

[Sardean]

Great news thanks for letting us all know how you fixed it

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[Mickeyrouse]

So....back to varnish

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Mickeyrouse

So....back to varnish

***sigh***

Well... at least you can visually see measurable progress with this fun task...

[deblen]

Congrats!!
Many electrical problems turn out to be "mechanically" caused-chafe,corrosion,etc.

Sorry you had to return to the varnishing..... / Len

[Mickeyrouse]

A LOT easier to get to than the engine...besides, only your pride stops you there.

[Dbuettell]

I have a westerbeke 63C circa 2000.. if your engine is the same vintage, chances are you have the same electrical system I have. The CB in my system is 20 amps rated at 77 degrees F not C I would venture to say the breaker has had it I had mine fail to restart after a 2 hour run. problem was the CB temp rating should have been 77 degrees C not F. Westerebeke supply was klixon. Westerbeke would not even discuss the issue.

I would start there. Blue sea makes a replacement breaker that is an exact fit about 60 $ rate 77 C.

If that is not it try an ammeter either in series or with an amp probe to check the coil on your fuel solenoid. that will at least eliminate that issue.

Westerbeke did say they have never had one fail.

Hope this helps

[RhodySailer]

Return of the circuit breaker.
I have a 1967 Bristol 32 with a Westerbeke 30C three (new around 2006). The engine has started and run well, with Admirals Panel gauges showing temperature, oil pressure and voltage values in normal range for multiple short uses (< 1 hour to get off mooring, or upwind). We recently used the engine for 2+ hours in hot weather up wind, and after about 1.5 hours I noticed the oil pressure gauge was at 0, but temperature was normal and engine was still running fine. We stopped the engine to sail, and there was no 'beep beep beep' with the key on. At anchor 30 mins later, turning the key on would not send the 'beep beep beep' signal, and the glow plug heat and start button did nothing. The 20 Amp circuit breaker was tripped, so I reset it. Turning the key on immediately tripped the circuit breaker. I tried this 3-4 times over 10-15 minutes and on the 4th try, everything started up normally. The next morning, start up was normal and we ran the engine for 2+ hours in hot weather up wind, towards home port with all running fine. We shut the engine off to sail to the mooring, and the same story: no 'beep' signal, and engine would not start. I reset the circuit breaker, and the start sequence tripped it each time.
Question: does this sound sound like a faulty circuit breaker? Maybe it fails at high temp? I cant see why keeping the engine hot for 2 hours would trigger a short somewhere else in the circuit.
Reading Mickyrouse's trials and tribulations in posts in 2015, I would like to avoid those. Any thoughts? My first step will be to replace the breaker.

[Dbuettell]

This sound like a an incorrectly applied breaker. Not from the size itself, i.e. 20 amps. That what mine is, as well but Westerbeke used a breaker set for 70 degrees F NOT 70 degree C which is what mine was.

You can buy these on the internet made by klaxon I believe, the correct rating is 20 amp 70 degrees C it is a bolt in part. . When you remove the
original CB and check the part number spec. you will see that its temp
rating is 70 degrees F. THAT is the problem . This did solve my issues.

Dave