Exhaust Elbow 2003 series Volvo diesel 3 cyl

[Russian007]

Old elbow rusted up and out. New one arrived from HDI. Question, the new part came with a gasket, is anything beyond that needed? Sanding? Caulk? Bubblegum? And, the new part need a torque wrench to install?

[team karst]

I put these gaskets on dry. I would clean up manifold surface with fiber wheel.

[Bill O]

In addition to the advice above, may clean the bolt threads.

[deblen]

And further to advice above:
The manifold tapped holes are easily stripped. Use a torque wrench & tighten gradually from corner to corner(like a cyl.head).
Always use a new gasket-no goop required.

Suggest using a flat file if rust is "piled up" at the "blanked" holes that look like coolant holes but are not.Then sand flat.
I replaced my factory original 4 steel bolts with SS bolts about 10 yrs ago. Holes were feeling partially stripped after removing the original steel bolts at that time. I got by with that til this yr.
I had to drill & install Helicoils in 2 holes & I am planning to use SS threaded rod studs with nuts on top,instead of bolts.
Cheers/Len

[vic008]

Nobody commenting on the bunged up slotted holes?Do your own research but my understanding is 2 (not the 4) of those slots should be open to allow water to flow from manifold to exhaust elbow. Maybe it's a freshwater/ saltwater thing

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by vic008

Nobody commenting on the bunged up slotted holes?Do your own research but my understanding is 2 (not the 4) of those slots should be open to allow water to flow from manifold to exhaust elbow. Maybe it's a freshwater/ saltwater thing

I'll ask around but there's a raw water inlet on the elbow that sends seawater into the wet exhaust.

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by deblen

And further to advice above:
The manifold tapped holes are easily stripped. Use a torque wrench & tighten gradually from corner to corner(like a cyl.head).
Always use a new gasket-no goop required.

Suggest using a flat file if rust is "piled up" at the "blanked" holes that look like coolant holes but are not.Then sand flat.
I replaced my factory original 4 steel bolts with SS bolts about 10 yrs ago. Holes were feeling partially stripped after removing the original steel bolts at that time. I got by with that til this yr.
I had to drill & install Helicoils in 2 holes & I am planning to use SS threaded rod studs with nuts on top,instead of bolts.
Cheers/Len

The manifold surface *feels* better than it looks. Running your fingers across the surface it feels smooth and flush.

About the bolts, they came out real easy, so much so that I was like "hmmm that's not how it usually goes pulling bolts off engines-- so much so that I indeed thought they'd be set with some defined torque setting. That brings up several issues: 1) I don't have a torque wrench 2) I've never used a torque wrench-- presumably they're straight forward to use? 3) How many pounds of torque would be about right? I don't have a shop manual.

[vic008]

Further, spoke to mate and he said he had no open slots but I do- so guess it's just one of those things. If you don't get answers here try YBW forum, the UK forum.
Beauty of VP, everything is on some forum

[deblen]

Originally Posted by vic008

Further, spoke to mate and he said he had no open slots but I do- so guess it's just one of those things. If you don't get answers here try YBW forum, the UK forum.
Beauty of VP, everything is on some forum

I am not aware of any version of 2000 series that has any of those 4 oblong holes open. If one were open,raw water (sea water) could drop down into the exhaust manifold & run into cylinders via exhaust valves.
See post # 38 in this link. Cheers/Len
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...-197474-3.html


This Cox Eng diagram helps understand the 2000 series cooling system:
http://coxeng.co.uk/wp-content/uploa...hot-water1.pdf


https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ng-141179.html


Some info on the 2 different thermostats used in these engines:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ng-150137.html

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Russian007

The manifold surface *feels* better than it looks. Running your fingers across the surface it feels smooth and flush.

About the bolts, they came out real easy, so much so that I was like "hmmm that's not how it usually goes pulling bolts off engines-- so much so that I indeed thought they'd be set with some defined torque setting. That brings up several issues: 1) I don't have a torque wrench 2) I've never used a torque wrench-- presumably they're straight forward to use? 3) How many pounds of torque would be about right? I don't have a shop manual.

https://www.marinedieselbasics.com/w...hop-Manual.pdf


https://www.ravenyachts.com/PDF/volv...2002_owner.pdf


Exhaust ell bolts are 10mm (Approx 3/8")
Torque in metric https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/m...ue-d_2054.html


Torque in SAE 15ftlbs If you can't get a torque wrench(recommended),this is what I tell my (overly strong bolt breaking sons). Use a 1/4 or 3/8 drive ratchet with socket & tighten using only your wrist strength-and still be gentle.With a spanner wrench,use wrist twist only & hold wrench at the "working" end-do not pull/lever on the end opposite the fastener.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyxsOoBPjOE

[DougR]

The slots which you see in the gasket are important when an exhaust riser is installed, but are not important when the exhaust elbow is bolted directly to the head.

The exhaust riser was a simple “spacer block” inserted between the head and the normal elbow. Because the engine used copper pipes to feed water into the exhaust elbow, the same pipes are used to feed water into the riser so that it is cooled. Then the water flowed up out of the riser, thru the slots in the gasket and into the elbow.

If you don’t use a riser, don’t worry about the slots. Just make sure the gasket seals well against the elbow and the head.

[deblen]

Better Service Manual https://ab-marineservice.com/wp-cont...SHOPMANUAL.pdf

[Russian007]

My 2.75 inch hosepipe is a couple of inches
Short of where it attaches to the elbow. is cutting a short piece of hoseline to extend the wet hose the best solution?

[Russian007]

This show the old and new elbow and that the exhaust house isn't sitting snug and fully attached on the elbow's 2-3/4" steel outlet.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Russian007

My 2.75 inch hosepipe is a couple of inches
Short of where it attaches to the elbow. is cutting a short piece of hoseline to extend the wet hose the best solution?

No not really. Does the hose go from the exhaust elbow to a muffler? If so replace the whole piece, it will only be a few feet and since this is the part that gets hot, fails first. It also means just two connections rather than four if you try to extend it.

Pete