Fancy(ish) fuel delivery and polishing system... and remote pressure gauges

[SV Allie Rose]

I'd like to run the system in such a way that I can utilize all three of the vacuum gauges. I was planing on tapping directly into the threads that the T-handle on top of the 500 Racor with a swivel fitting, 3/4 to 1/4 NPT, and thereafter 1/4 NPT to 1/4 Barb elbow (with a shut off valve to prevent fuel spill when changing the filter), to a 1/4" ID hose that goes to the the vacuum gauge.

Any thoughts on such a system?

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by SV Allie Rose

I'll take a video and upload to youtube of how it's all plumbed tomorrow afternoon.

I would install the P510MAM following the manufacturer's recommendation. I see this unit has a 26PSI line pressure. You really want to keep this separate from the engine fuel plumbing. Just run it to the tank alone as far as the return line goes. At 72 gph I would not tee it into the existing fuel lines. You need to install a new pick up and return to the fuel tank. At 26psi and 72gph I see why they spec 3/8 lines.

[NorthCoastJoe]

Why not set up a day tank? Filter fuel from the main tank to the day tank, Racor 500, 30 micron. Any small electric pump that can overcome the head and filter resistance will do. Overflow from the day tank goes back to the main tank. A second racor 500 filter 10 micron between the day tank and engine.

Next issue keeping moisture out of your fuel redo you vent so that it has a tank Desiccant Breather:

https://www.grainger.com/product/2NM...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Really the vent needs to be pinhole sized when motoring and sitting at rest, a 1/16 inch hole would do. The 5/8 tube is for air venting out when fueling. I keep my 5/8 vent closed except when fueling.

But first get inside the tank and clean it by hand. This set up is simple and if you foul the main filter your still running on the day tank.

[SV Allie Rose]

I've decided that the route I wish to go is to install a day tank. I'd love any feedback on this new plan.

Before opening up the tank to clean it, I'd like to remove the entirety of the fuel that it in the tank currently (almost full), to prevent debris from falling into the tank when opening up the access hatch.

I plan on installing the P510MAM with 3/8" A1 hose attached to a long pipe (presumedly copper? brass? or stainless?) that could be put directly into the 1" access port. The output from the P510MAM I will FIRST plumb to nothing - in order to move the fuel directly into a 55 gallon drum. The output hose would act kind of like a garden hose, I suppose.

Once I've pulled 55 gallons out of the tank, I will thereafter plumb it directly into the new day tank.

For the day tank output, I will splice into the fuel line that is presently attached to the intake for the main tank with a three way valve. This will allow the day tank to act as the primary feed for the current system, OR, for the current system to draw directly from the main tank, should the need ever arise.

Questions:

Thoughts on installing a tank like this?: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...5-h-23019.html

I'd like to install it in the cockpit locker. Any issues I should be aware of? Any specific parts I need for this installation?

I need an inline splice for the 3/8" line with a 1/4" middle "port" to go to the vacuum gauge. Any recommendations? Put another way, what's the best way to install a vacum gauge with the P510MAM?

The current fuel pump that is attached to the engine is very rusty. If I wanted to keep a spare on the boat, or even replace it, where is the best source for a new pump for the 4JH5E I have?

I hope to have this installed and finished on Friday. I'll post photos once done.

Any recommendations on a good 55 Gallon drum is appreciated too.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by SV Allie Rose

I've decided that the route I wish to go is to install a day tank. I'd love any feedback on this new plan.

Before opening up the tank to clean it, I'd like to remove the entirety of the fuel that it in the tank currently (almost full), to prevent debris from falling into the tank when opening up the access hatch.

I plan on installing the P510MAM with 3/8" A1 hose attached to a long pipe (presumedly copper? brass? or stainless?) that could be put directly into the 1" access port. The output from the P510MAM I will FIRST plumb to nothing - in order to move the fuel directly into a 55 gallon drum. The output hose would act kind of like a garden hose, I suppose.

Once I've pulled 55 gallons out of the tank, I will thereafter plumb it directly into the new day tank.

For the day tank output, I will splice into the fuel line that is presently attached to the intake for the main tank with a three way valve. This will allow the day tank to act as the primary feed for the current system, OR, for the current system to draw directly from the main tank, should the need ever arise.

Questions:

Thoughts on installing a tank like this?: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...5-h-23019.html

I'd like to install it in the cockpit locker. Any issues I should be aware of? Any specific parts I need for this installation?

I need an inline splice for the 3/8" line with a 1/4" middle "port" to go to the vacuum gauge. Any recommendations? Put another way, what's the best way to install a vacum gauge with the P510MAM?

The current fuel pump that is attached to the engine is very rusty. If I wanted to keep a spare on the boat, or even replace it, where is the best source for a new pump for the 4JH5E I have?

I hope to have this installed and finished on Friday. I'll post photos once done.

Any recommendations on a good 55 Gallon drum is appreciated too.

ABYC H33

Tee fitting with appropriate barb fittings.

I would not consider the lift pump "very" rusty. Clean it up and paint it if you want. Or use something like POR15. Yanmar OE or aftermarket. Amazon has tons of them. Or use your local Yanmar dealer.

How much fuel is in your tank now? If under 20 maybe use the new tank. Filter yoru fuel going into it.

[SV Allie Rose]

Currently have a full, 70-80 gallons in the tank.

[Scubaseas]

Why not install your filter system and wait to clean the tank when it's a bit less full?

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by SV Allie Rose

Thoughts on installing a tank like this?: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...5-h-23019.html

Ideally a diesel day tank should:

1. Be fitted above the fuel intake on the main engine.
This means the fuel is supplied under positive pressure so failure of the lift pump will not stop the engine tuning. Troubleshooting the fuel system is also easier, as an "air" leak in the fuel intake line will not occur and bleeding is simplified.

2. Have a large sump.
As the tank is raised, draining the sump is easy. Open a valve and any water or crud in the bottom of the tank will drain out. As you are not concerned about draining the last drop of diesel the pick up for the main engine can be well above the bottom of the tank.

3. Have a big inspection port for cleaning.
This is a tank you want keep spotless clean. It should rarely need cleaning, but due to its small size it should be easy to clean and a large inspection port encourages this practice.

4. Have a manual means of checking the fuel level in the tank.

5. Be able to be easily filled from a jerry can.
Keeping a separate can of diesel is a wise practice. If your main tank becomes contaminated or you inadvertently run out of fuel, having a seperate supply of say 20 litres of diesel can get you out of trouble. Adding only 20 l of diesel to the large main fuel tank is often not enough to raise the fuel level consistently above the pickup. The same quantity added to smaller day tank works much better.


This is an ideal list. There are still advantages of a day tank even if none of these features can be incorporated, but it is worth selecting a tank with as many of these attributes as possible.

Below is a picture of the diesel day tank (under construction) fabricated by KM boatbuilders incorporating all of these features. Notice the large sump and inspection port that enables the whole tank to be cleaned.

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Ideally a diesel day tank should:

1. Be fitted above the fuel intake on the main engine.
This means the fuel is supplied under positive pressure so failure of the lift pump will not stop the engine tuning. Troubleshooting the fuel system is also easier, as an "air" leak in the fuel intake line will not occur and bleeding is simplified.

2. Have a large sump.
As the tank is raised, draining the sump is easy. Open a valve and any water or crud in the bottom of the tank will drain out. As you are not concerned about draining the last drop of diesel the pick up for the main engine can be well above the bottom of the tank.

3. Have a big inspection port for cleaning.
This is a tank you want keep spotless clean. It should rarely need cleaning, but due to its small size it should be easy to clean and a large inspection port encourages this practice.

4. Have a manual means of checking the fuel level in the tank.

5. Be able to be easily filled from a jerry can.
Keeping a separate can of diesel is a wise practice. If your main tank becomes contaminated or you inadvertently run out of fuel, having a seperate supply of say 20 litres of diesel can get you out of trouble. Adding only 20 l of diesel to the large main fuel tank is often not enough to raise the fuel level consistently above the pickup. The same quantity added to smaller day tank works much better.


This is an ideal list. There are still advantages of a day tank even if none of these features can be incorporated, but it is worth selecting a tank with as many of these attributes as possible.

Below is a picture of the diesel day tank (under construction) fabricated by KM boatbuilders incorporating all of these features. Notice the large sump and inspection port that enables the whole tank to be cleaned.

Over all good features except can think of one occasion where I wouldn't want it gravity feed. This would be a hole in the mechanical pump diaphragm (the other failure point of a mechanical pump) allowing the fuel from the day tank to free flow to the engine crankcase (this could cause the engine to run away).

[SV Allie Rose]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Over all good features except can think of one occasion where I wouldn't want it gravity feed. This would be a hole in the mechanical pump diaphragm (the other failure point of a mechanical pump) allowing the fuel from the day tank to free flow to the engine crankcase (this could cause the engine to run away).

I suppose the best fix for this could be a shut off valve? Should the engine "run away", you could find the shut off valve ASAP and thereafter deal with the issue?

[Cheechako]

I would pay for the "fuel polishing" once. They spray fuel at some velocity (make sure your source does this) and recirculate loosening up all that crud that clings to the side/bottom/top of the tank and filtering it out.
A low velocity fuel polishing system will not do that. Then install a simple polishing system after if you want.
Buy a plastic drum for excess fuel. The polishing company can likely use that to flow excess fuel in and out of while polishing.

The other thing you can do to avoid the issues you had bringing the boat home is mount two filter units with 3 way valves so they are in parallel. If one cruds up you just turn to the other filter while continuing underway.

My thoughts on a day tank are it is just a band-aid. Just make and keep a clean fuel system and KISS. I've never had trouble doing that even though some boats needed the fuel polished at the start of my ownership.

[Bill O]

The "fuel" to cause the run away is the over filled crankcase of oil and fuel. Best thing to do if this happens is to block the air intake w/a board. Shutting off the day tank (if there is still fuel in it) could help.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by SV Allie Rose

I suppose the best fix for this could be a shut off valve? Should the engine "run away", you could find the shut off valve ASAP and thereafter deal with the issue?

You should have a shut off valve at each tank regardless.

Run away diesel is not from fuel typically. More often from crankcase oil vapors or blowby. The engine starts using it's lube oil as fuel.

The fix for runaway is often a board placed over the air inlet. Do NOT use your hand for this. Limiting the fuel which for your motor would be taking off the crankcase breather hose to the air filter. If that doesn't stop it you need to close off the air supply. A taper wood plug would also work for this unless you have a heater in the inlet.

just FYI the 4JH5(E) needs about 4 psi on the feed to run properly. Gravity feed to the high pressure will usually work as there is a mechanical low pressure pump inside the high pressure pump but not always. It may run but not at full throttle.

[noelex 77]

In terms of plumbing the day tank, two primary filters are better (three if you want to add a permanent fuel polishing system).

One filter (usually 2 micron) feeds fuel to the day tank. This ensures only super clean fuel enters the day tank. There is no danger of starving the engine of fuel from using a fine filter such as this, as the transfer and fuel delivery to the engine are seperate.

The second filter (usually a 10 micron) is between the day tank and the engine. In most circumstances this filter should do nothing, but it acts as final catch all in the unlikely event of contamination in the day tank. This filter also is used to supply fuel directly from the main tank to the engine.

Thus if there is problem with the day tank, fuel pump or 2 micron filter clogging, a seperate filtered fuel supply can be obtained from the main tank. The is like a conventional dual filter set up with the advantage that not only is the filter changed, but the tank as well.

The polishing system if fitted is seperate taking fuel from the main tank filtering it and returning it to the same tank.

[SV Allie Rose]

I've decided to plumb the RacorP510MAM into the fuel tank directly to a 10 gallon day tank. I'm very excited about this.

I'm using a three way valve to allow the current fuel pump to select from pulling fuel directly from the main fuel tank for redundancy.

QUESTIONS:

1) Since the racor filter is both a filter and an integrated pump, where/how would I install a pressure/vaccume gauge? Would I do that on in input side of the filter? The output side just goes to the day tank, so there's no pump that would be creating pressure is my presumption. There's also not an ability to tap into the top of the filter like on other RACOR products, because that's where the pump sits.

2) The tank is 13" deep, and has 2x 3/8" NPT ports on the top, and 1 3/8" NPT port on the bottom. Should I use a pick up tube, or just install an "input" line into one of the top ports, a vent on the other port, and then have fuel feed directly from the bottom of the day tank port to the 500's, and thereafter the the pump and spin on filter?

3) Do I need check valves anywhere within the transfer system?

4) Do I need to drill into the tank and install any kind of ventilation?

Thanks for your feedback. Photos attached of the tank. Note - photos don't include the 3/8" NPT ports that were added on the top. Those I just added recently but don't have photos.