How do I loosen the water strainer?

[nortonscove]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Piece of 1x2 and a hammer. But first find someone with a replacement in stock.

I don’t know if you can buy just the screw in lids.

My boat had several aboard when I bought it. So I'm assuming they are available to purchase separately. I also don't think they need to be tightened a great deal. I'm thinking it is something that is helped by the gasket in regards to keeping it snug and water tight.

[davil]

Originally Posted by HopCar

That’s exactly what I was thinking.

this the one to use

[sstj29]

There is something made specifically for this

https://www.seaviewprogress.com/webs...-filtre-vetus/

I have 2 and they work great

[skipgundlach]

Thumbs up on the plumber's pliers - I have to use that on our Raritan filter, with only a single raised across-the-top plate to grab to. I open it all the way, so the tool is at the outer edges, and gently turn.

I use teflon grease for swimming pool pumps on the massive O-ring; I've learned that IT's the water seal, not having it down hard, so I hand tighten, but gently, on cleaning...

[Talbot]

I had those on my cat. Works of the devil. Had a major difficulty removing them every time.

Replaced them with Forespar Marelon version


Much easier to operate and stronger.


A word of warning. If you have these (and you should) and you have SD20 saildrives - there is a real problem if you dry out. If you use the raw water valve (supposedly designed for the purpose) on the SD20 saildrive, It is fine when new. But the valve is bad because it not only has a very small bore, but it is also a gate valve not a ball valve. It takes the water from inside the leg. So what are the problems:
1. Poor water flow due to size of pipe.

2. Pipe can get blocked by crustaceans leading to engine overheating.

3. Gate valve becomes impossible to shut completely. Thus when you try to shut it when drying out, the water drains out completely. When you try to prepare to restart, it is impossible to add water into the top of the strainer because it drains straight back through the semi-open gate valve. Always assuming you have located your strainer above the water line - always a good idea otherwise you can't open the lid while the boat is in the water!
access.
I added new 3/4" dedicated thruhulls and sealed off the SD20 .


Do they work - yes! I had a reduced waterflow on start up of one of my engines. When I checked the strainer I had a small fish swimming around in it and looking a tad lost (Nemo???)

[Jimmyhenry]

Don’t try and apply force on the cross on the lid. They crack easily. (Personal experience) I had to remove mine when in a very remote location. Success came from making a strap wrench out of some webbing tape screwed onto a piece of metal. Wound up the metal bit till it tensioned on the lid and then gently eased off the lid.
Turn your sea cock off first 😅😅

[gonesail]

use silicon grease on the o-ring next time. and go with a bronze groco strainer if all else fails.

[Dennis.G]

I think careful use of strap wrench, but use of socket type instead of the type with the lever handle.

[Wireless1]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Luke

Thank you guys! I ordered the strap wrench, as recommended above. I'll try to tighten a little first then loosen it. I did it with my hands but again... no luck.

The wrench should be here Thursday and I'll go to the boat on Friday. I'll keep you guys posted

Thank you!!

I have the same strainer. Use TWO rubber strap wrenches. One around the bottom and one around the lid. Then you hold the bottom still while you rotate the top. easy peasy and it won't break that way. When you reassemble it silicone grease the O-ring and don't tighten it like "Arnold" and it will be easy next time. Tighter does not make it better.

Good luck.

[fish53]

Take the hoses off unmount it and give it to someone you don't like, then get a proper Perko bronze strainer.

[KWISPEL]

Make a tool -> place a plastic bag on top, then epoxi on top en place a mettal bar in the epoxi. A day later have you a nice working tool.
Or buy the tool by Vetus.

[parkstone bay]

Originally Posted by fish53

Take the hoses off unmount it and give it to someone you don't like, then get a proper Perko bronze strainer.

I've got a Vetus on my boat, so I'll have it as a spare! (big smiley face)

But what is scarey is the OP apparently hasn't even looked at his filter for a year. Otherwise, every time you check, which of course you do every time you use the engine, don't you?, just unscrew/retighten the lid a quarter turn. Simples.

[Cool Hand Luke]

Thank you for all your help and useful tips and tricks. I ended up buying the Craftsman 2 Piece 16 Inch Rubber Strap Wrench Set, 9-45570, and it worked!!!

Now, I made sure I don't tighten it like "Arnold"

Thanks again, guys!!

[parkstone bay]

When reassembling, smear a little silicon grease on the thread. Every time you visually check the filter, loosen the lid a quarter-turn, and re-tighten (by hand).

[LoudMusic]

Originally Posted by Talbot

I had those on my cat. Works of the devil. Had a major difficulty removing them every time.

Replaced them with Forespar Marelon version


Much easier to operate and stronger.


A word of warning. If you have these (and you should) and you have SD20 saildrives - there is a real problem if you dry out. If you use the raw water valve (supposedly designed for the purpose) on the SD20 saildrive, It is fine when new. But the valve is bad because it not only has a very small bore, but it is also a gate valve not a ball valve. It takes the water from inside the leg. So what are the problems:
1. Poor water flow due to size of pipe.

2. Pipe can get blocked by crustaceans leading to engine overheating.

3. Gate valve becomes impossible to shut completely. Thus when you try to shut it when drying out, the water drains out completely. When you try to prepare to restart, it is impossible to add water into the top of the strainer because it drains straight back through the semi-open gate valve. Always assuming you have located your strainer above the water line - always a good idea otherwise you can't open the lid while the boat is in the water!
access.
I added new 3/4" dedicated thruhulls and sealed off the SD20 .


Do they work - yes! I had a reduced waterflow on start up of one of my engines. When I checked the strainer I had a small fish swimming around in it and looking a tad lost (Nemo???)

I have the model you reference for my air conditioners and they're GREAT. And I have the one this thread is about on my engines and they're AWFUL. I might replace them sometime if I get motivated.

I also have saildrives with water intake running through them. I thought that was required to keep the saildrives cool - is that not the case? I haven't even owned the boat a full year and had two overheats from plugged intake! Moving to ACTUAL dedicated intakes would make me much happier.