How screwed am I?

[B3R7R4M-H34]

Was replacing the original Perko filter/Separator with a new Racor. Good news is it's installed and looks amazing. Bad news is I heard water trickling while working on the engine and noticed it's coming out of the air intake. I think it's hydro locked. Am I screwed?

[belizesailor]

Not necessarily, if you just got water in the engine a good flush can fix that. No substantial damage likely done unless it was run.

Do NOT try to crank the engine.

[Sailor 99]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Not necessarily, if you just got water in the engine a good flush can fix that. No substantial damage likely done unless it was run.

Do NOT try to crank the engine.

Do not crank the engine. The water will drain past the rings and into the oil. Turn the engine over by hand using what ever you need to. When you can go around 2x for every cylinder you know it is not hydrolocked.



Now change the oil. If you feel you need to run the engine first make sure the combination water and oil is not adding the equivalent of 4 quarts of oil to the engine first. If it is then heat the engine some other way. If you run with over full oil you will blow the seals and that is a big problem.


After oil change run the engine for an hour or so to get it nice and warm so any water left A) evaporates off B) or mixes with the oil.


To that again and then put a 3rd oil change into it and you will be fine.


If you crank the engine you can bend a rod and then that engine will die soon and its not even rebuild-able unless it has piston sleeves.

[a64pilot]

After you get the cylinders clear of water, crank her up and run it for a couple of minutes, oil will probably be milky, change oil and filter, continue to do that with 5 min runs until the oil is no longer milky.

Then figure out how it got hydrolocked, cause nothing you could have done with a strainer should cause that/

Oh, if you don’t have decompression levers, you May have to pull the injectors, after turning over by hand, spin it good with the starter to ensure all the water is out, then install the injectors.
Of course turn off the seacock until you get it actually running, then open it.

[B3R7R4M-H34]

How would you get the water out?
I do have decompression levers, so hopefully pulling the injectors isn't needed.

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by B3R7R4M-H34

How would you get the water out?
I do have decompression levers, so hopefully pulling the injectors isn't needed.

The water comes out while you are turning the engine over by hand, goes past the rings into the oil sump.

You have to keep doing the oil changes till all the water's gone, re-read A64pilot's post, sounds like he's maybe done it.

Ann

[transmitterdan]

If you have chocolate milky oil in the sump you can also use diesel fuel mixed with maybe 1-2 liters of motor oil for the first couple oil changes. The diesel acts as a solvent and cleans the gunk out of the innards of the engine. Then do 2-3 more oil changes with regular oil and it should be good to go.

Talk to a diesel mechanic but don't let it sit very long with salt water in the cylinders. It will rust up pretty fast.

I assume you tried to crank the engine for a while before it started. In future, close the sea cock when cranking until it fires. Don't let it run with the seacock closed. Once it fires you can open the seacock. Our general rule is to not crank the engine for more than 10-15 seconds with the seacock open.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, B3R7R4M-H34.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by B3R7R4M-H34

How would you get the water out?
I do have decompression levers, so hopefully pulling the injectors isn't needed.

With decompression levers this is an easy task.

Pull the drain plug on the muffler or disconnect the exhaust hose, decompress all of the cylinders, then turn the engine over. Be careful to not allow compression on the engine until all of the water is expelled.

[B3R7R4M-H34]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, B3R7R4M-H34.

Thanks!

[MarkSF]

How did the water get in?

[B3R7R4M-H34]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

With decompression levers this is an easy task.

Pull the drain plug on the muffler or disconnect the exhaust hose, decompress all of the cylinders, then turn the engine over. Be careful to not allow compression on the engine until all of the water is expelled.

Thanks everyone! I opened the drain, closed the seacock, drained the water from the exhaust muffler, and turned it a few times by hand. A lot of water came out the exhaust! But, I got her started again! Lesson learned! Glad I didn't have to buy another diesel!

[billgewater]

Reading all the posts it seems that these complicated and expensive procedures should be something of the past. Reciprocating engines just seem archaic.
It would be enough to make you consider electric motors. Just haven't got around to putting the initial energy into the system yet.
There have been many great improvements in the boating world since the WW 2 but no real dramatic improvements in engine based propulsion systems. (Possibly better power to weight with turbo chargers, but that comes at a horrendous cost and higher maintenance.) Vested interest's lethargy?
The sudden development in 4 stroke outboard motors came about (I believe) largely from legislation in California related to pollution. Suddenly everyone could actually make 4 stroke outboard motors. With road vehicles the expectation is that there will be a big shift to electric vehicles for similar reasons, so maybe it will be legislation that will change our dependency on diesel engines. Who knows? Charging outlets at marinas? Fuel cells that produce electric output?
However, my own engine is a Ford 590 E 80 hp series engine made in Dagenham, England in 1962. I follow the old grubby service manual religiously and so far it has not missed a beat. Touch wood.

[B3R7R4M-H34]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

How did the water get in?

Water got in from the seawater cooled exhaust system. I had an issue with contaminated fuel and kept cranking the engine in the hopes it would start. Needless to say that's a bad decision. Going to start closing the exhaust system seacock after the engine is shutdown, and when trying to re-prime the fuel system from maintenance.

[billknny]

Originally Posted by B3R7R4M-H34

Water got in from the seawater cooled exhaust system. I had an issue with contaminated fuel and kept cranking the engine in the hopes it would start. Needless to say that's a bad decision. Going to start closing the exhaust system seacock after the engine is shutdown, and when trying to re-prime the fuel system from maintenance.

WAIT A MINUTE! You say you are going to close the "exhaust system seacock." What people are talking about is the cooling water INTAKE seacock. If that's what you mean, then OK.

It's a bit unusual to have a seacock on the exhaust, but it is sometimes done. Cranking the engine with the exhaust blocked in is a BAD idea...