Hydrolocked? Yanmar 4JH2-TE

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Good progress!

FWIW, the few Yanmar engines that I've seen inside have all been red/orange - I assumed it is paint or some cast iron sealing stuff and consider it is good sign.

AHH! hahah I wondered why it was so uniform.. Awesome paint job 😂

[IsaakOker]

And just one more reply to this post instead of answering the last 6-7 messages individually..

I'm actually enjoying learning about engines as it is definitely my weak spot at repairing sailboats..

And yes, my service manual is quite black on every single page except the "test running part" 😉

I thought engines were a lot more complex but with the correct mind set they seem VERY straightforward or at least this one which apart from the turbo is all the "same" as the E version. Not that far yet to worry about turbo..

I will most likely have to ask a mechanic to do some work but the sleeves are dry so if I can manage to extract them somehow, most of the work should be doable with very little tools I believe.

Let's see what I see tomorrow and If I get the pistons out so that the crankshaft can turn.. That's my next step I believe unless someone has something to add!

Good night & yes, your opinions are very helpful. I obviously make my mind up based on a mix of opinions & manuals, etc so getting along quite well! 🍻

[a64pilot]

I think you will find that what is rusted together is the rings and the cylinder wall to each other.

You have a book of course but the rod caps are matched to that rod and they are also orientation, meaning they have to go back on the same rod and the same direction, often you have to mark the rod and it’s caps, if you have them numbering stamps are good for this, but even vibrating engraver works, just use something that cannot be removed even with solvents.

Same thing for the crankshaft caps, the bolts don’t have to go back into the same holes just though.

[BruceS]

I'd be taking one cap off at a time & drive the piston out from the crankshaft side unless you just wish to move (or try!) moving one at a time. Less likely to damage the piston that way. At this stage I'd treat the engine as having been rebuilt not that long ago. (until you find out otherwise)
Be good to lay the motor on it's side so crap doesn't fall down on the crank journal. Easier to bump back & forth too.
Once you remove all pistons hopefully the crank will spin like a top.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I think you will find that what is rusted together is the rings and the cylinder wall to each other.

You have a book of course but the rod caps are matched to that rod and they are also orientation, meaning they have to go back on the same rod and the same direction, often you have to mark the rod and it’s caps, if you have them numbering stamps are good for this, but even vibrating engraver works, just use something that cannot be removed even with solvents.

Same thing for the crankshaft caps, the bolts don’t have to go back into the same holes just though.

Thanks for the tip!
They are stamped but I'm anyways laying everything out in a certain order to remember exactly what goes where just in case!

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by BruceS

I'd be taking one cap off at a time & drive the piston out from the crankshaft side unless you just wish to move (or try!) moving one at a time. Less likely to damage the piston that way. At this stage I'd treat the engine as having been rebuilt not that long ago. (until you find out otherwise)
Be good to lay the motor on it's side so crap doesn't fall down on the crank journal. Easier to bump back & forth too.
Once you remove all pistons hopefully the crank will spin like a top.

I might lay it on it's side tomorrow but it seems very sturdy as it is, true dirt can get in..

So you would drive them out 1 by 1 towards the crackshaft or away from it?

Also, why would you treat the engine as having been rebuilt not too long ago? Haha don't get it

[BruceS]

Away from the crank. Unlikely to come out towards it unless you remove the crank first.
If it was recently rebuilt or even got only a few hours on it then most, if not all, parts can be reused in your rebuild unless you mangle them/it getting it apart. (except gaskets of course)

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by IsaakOker

..........

I will most likely have to ask a mechanic to do some work but the sleeves are dry so if I can manage to extract them somehow, most of the work should be doable with very little tools I believe.
........

I'm curious.

I would have thought removing dry liners would beyond the ken of DIY, i.e. a specialist workshop job while wet liners can be done "at home".
?????

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by BruceS

Away from the crank. Unlikely to come out towards it unless you remove the crank first.
If it was recently rebuilt or even got only a few hours on it then most, if not all, parts can be reused in your rebuild unless you mangle them/it getting it apart. (except gaskets of course)

OK, that's what I thought.. Haha

It has 1100hrs on it. Hasn't been rebuilt I believe & is from 1993.

The previous owner had her 6yrs, 5 of which abandoned. The one before that had her in the keys as a weekend boat so not much use on her but the last 5 years got here to a state most people wouldn't lay hands on her because of the interior state(water ingress through ports & hatches - - >heat--> humidity 😕

[Geoff54]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Being a turbo it’s not exactly a low tech engine either.
I’d recommend removing the engine from the boat and doing the work inside a building somewhere, and honestly you can buy an engine stand pretty cheaply, it will make reassembly a lot easier.

This is a big deal, it’s quite a bit of technical work, and many things will have to be hired out and need to be done, like the fuel injection pump being reworked and the block being bored, cause I don’t think it has wet liners. The head too, this is a Diesel so don’t try lapping the valves yourself, and do not have the head shaved if there is any way out of it.
The crank needs magnafluxing and if your lucky just polishing, but it needs to be mic’d or use plasti gauge at least.
Then you have the turbo and intercoolers etc.

You should strip the block, and have it boiled, this will remove the cam bearings, you pull the freeze plugs too.

Ideal is to find a friend that has overhauled Diesels before or sometimes a Tech School will do the rebuild if you pay for the expenses, their labor is free so the students learn

Whoa, you are getting way ahead of things. I really don't want to get into a stupid internet argument but lets look at these items.

What makes you think that the fuel injection pump needs to be re worked?
Yes, the block might need to be bored but we aren't there yet.
Why shouldn't he lap the valves? There is absolutely nothing magical about diesel valves that means they need some special expert treatment. The seats might need a light cut but lets see what they look like first.
The head almost certainly won't needs facing. Checked, sure , but its a very rigid piece. I severely overheated mine (long story) and it was still dead flat. Cracked a valve guide but the head was fine.
Magnaflux the crank - Really?? And polish it? Apart from the fact that dye crack detection and polishing aren't exactly rocket science, this is a very low stress installation. I'd only do that if I had reason to think that there might be a problem. The bottom end on these engine are super robust. Lets see what the journals look like before we get carried away.
Turbos - why do we think there is turbo problem? And I don't believe it has an intercooler.
Strip the block. Hmmmm. Unlikely that it needs it but we'll have to see. Yes, a complete overhaul might be the ideal way to go but in the real world, it may not be possible or needed.

I have built some very exotic engines and seriously, this is a ******* tractor engine.

I think that the op is doing exactly the right thing - get everything apart and see what we are dealing with. We should be supporting his endeavor and not scaring him with things he probably won't need to deal with. Sure it would be nice if he had some expert help but he's doing ok and several of us are doing the best be can to help.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by Wotname

I'm curious.

I would have thought removing dry liners would beyond the ken of DIY, i.e. a specialist workshop job while wet liners can be done "at home".
?????

That's what I found online in most DIY forums but it has been done & a friend that is a yanmar mechanic said it's doable if I am persistent.. I'll look into that further along..

The first issue I see is that I haven't managed to source any new sleeves.

My mindset as you might have noticed is will+skills+time can get nearly everything done nowadays!
Skills in this case have to obviously be learn but that's fine.. Suppose it's my young age eagerness 😁

[BruceS]

Wait till you get the pistons out before you jump too far ahead of yourself.
A good hone might be all that's needed rather than removing liners.
First things first.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by BruceS

Wait till you get the pistons out before you jump too far ahead of yourself.
A good hone might be all that's needed rather than removing liners.
First things first.

Don't worry.. I'll go step by step. I'm in no rush now that it has no more water in it.. Won't rust too much further

Tomorrow the pistons should come out and then we'll see.

Is it fine to mullet directly onto the rod or is it better to use a block of wood?

[BruceS]

Mullet? A wet fish won't shift much!!! lol
Start with some soft wood... pine .... little tap on one side of the crank & then the other side. 4 or 5 times & if a slight shift, go to top of piston & move back down. Plenty of lubrication is good!!!
Repeat, repeat & then maybe move up to a bit harder wood (if it doesn't move at all) .... try again, repeat etc.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by BruceS

Mullet? A wet fish won't shift much!!! lol
Start with some soft wood... pine .... little tap on one side of the crank & then the other side. 4 or 5 times & if a slight shift, go to top of piston & move back down. Plenty of lubrication is good!!!
Repeat, repeat & then maybe move up to a bit harder wood (if it doesn't move at all) .... try again, repeat etc.

Haha snapper is nicer!
Frickin autocorrect... You know what I mean

I'll give it a try in the morning then! Good night to you all!