Hydrolocked? Yanmar 4JH2-TE

[Shaneesprit]

Actually even with electronics it should be possible, to remove a Turbo you would see alarms - Diesel engines don’t care about Air to Fuel Ratio, like Petrol or Gas Engines, but the loss of HP would be huge, Turbos don’t actually go wrong that often, as long as they get good quality oils, the wrong oil can see a Turbo off in less than a week ( when they started Turbos on Diesel I was an apprentice) the service manager didn’t listen to me as an apprentice when I said the oil was wrong for that car - the following week the car was back with oil dripping out of the exhaust!

[a64pilot]

What would happen if you removed the turbo is that the engine would horribly over fuel. Much black smoke, The fuel injected is based on the turbo packing in more air, remove the air and you have too much fuel.
Besides there would likely be a plumbing nightmare trying to remove the thing. Air, oil and exhaust

[model 10]

I apparently dropped a tiny little piece of exh manifold gasket into the manifold on an airplane once. It seemed to run fine, so off we went. About the time it reached full rpm on take off, something happened and it felt like we had run into loose sand. Turns out there was a piece of gasket about the size of a peppercorn stuck in the turbine and it had stopped turning. So yeah, totally different animal.

[Geoff54]

Dumping the turbo actually crossed my mind if the turbo and pistons were both bad. I actually don't think the plumbing would be too difficult with a few E parts.

From a very quick look, the major differences between the E and TE that would be an issue are pistons, cam shaft, injector pump. injectors and regulator. The crank and flywheel are also different but I expect they are just beefed up so probably not an issue. In short, just not worth the cost and hassle.

The Hunter 40 is smaller and lighter than my Catalina 42 and I haven't found the 50h.p. non-turbo lacking. I'm not sure why the op's boat has the turbo version. Probably marketing.

[Cheechako]

I have removed a turbo on a gas engine with no issues, but yeah hard to say on this. On the one hand you have someone saying "if you dont push it, the Turbo is not even being used" on the other hand you have someone saying "it wont run properly". Hmmmm

[Shaneesprit]

Turbo on a diesel is not marketing it is purely power and efficiency don’t remove it as it’s not worth it, for the loss of power.
Diesels like to be used, on load the heat closes up all the tolerance in the engine, without the heat you won’t do it any good and you will regret the loss

[Geoff54]

Originally Posted by Shaneesprit

Turbo on a diesel is not marketing it is purely power and efficiency don’t remove it as it’s not worth it, for the loss of power.
Diesels like to be used, on load the heat closes up all the tolerance in the engine, without the heat you won’t do it any good and you will regret the loss

Go back and read what I actually wrote. i.e. that putting a turbo engine in a boat that doesn't need it is probably just marketing.

This thread has degenerated into ridiculousness.

We achieved the objective of getting the Issaks's engine apart. Yeah!!

Enjoy arguing among yourselves - I'm out. I'll be home tomorrow and I'm going sailing. Ahhhhhhhhhh.

[IsaakOker]

Hii Everyone!

Sorry for not updating these days but I had to get other things fixed first..

I'm currently a working with pipes, cables, wood & engine so I don't have the entire day for the engine itself.

I cleaned the heat exchanger, inspected it & found it to be great.
The turbo spins freely so I'll definitely leave it until the engine runs and then I'll try to clean it with a product to see if the carbon buildup will dissappear.

I ended up tlaing the intake manifold off just for the sake of it, cleaned all the gaskets off surfaces, scrubbed & tapped it for a later of primer +paint tomorrow.

Once it's painted I'm actually going to leave it for quite some time as I have to fly back to Europe to sort stuff out & once I get back I'll get the cylinders honed, I'll install all new rings & will then go ahead and reassemble the entire engine with new starter, belt, hoses,impellers, gaskets, etc.

As for the head, no, I didn't take the valves, springs, etc out but I cleaned up the carbon and they look good visually.

What exact test/checks would you do before reinstalling the head?

Also, would you wrap the engine in a bin bag and oil it to leave it standing here for some time or would you just WD40 it without closing it in a bag?(amny different opinions out there).

Have a great evening all!

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by IsaakOker

Hii Everyone!

Sorry for not updating these days but I had to get other things fixed first..

I'm currently a working with pipes, cables, wood & engine so I don't have the entire day for the engine itself.

I cleaned the heat exchanger, inspected it & found it to be great.
The turbo spins freely so I'll definitely leave it until the engine runs and then I'll try to clean it with a product to see if the carbon buildup will dissappear.

I ended up tlaing the intake manifold off just for the sake of it, cleaned all the gaskets off surfaces, scrubbed & tapped it for a later of primer +paint tomorrow.

Once it's painted I'm actually going to leave it for quite some time as I have to fly back to Europe to sort stuff out & once I get back I'll get the cylinders honed, I'll install all new rings & will then go ahead and reassemble the entire engine with new starter, belt, hoses,impellers, gaskets, etc.

As for the head, no, I didn't take the valves, springs, etc out but I cleaned up the carbon and they look good visually.

What exact test/checks would you do before reinstalling the head?

Also, would you wrap the engine in a bin bag and oil it to leave it standing here for some time or would you just WD40 it without closing it in a bag?(amny different opinions out there).

Have a great evening all!

Oh noooo... are you only going to paint one bit of the engine or the whole lot at this stage??? If you only paint one bit, then the rest is going to look sooo bad that you will stress about it until the lot is done

As for storing the engine, the local engine shops here coat it with Lanox (https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/in...CABEgLouvD_BwE) but any similar product would do and then wrap it tightly with cling film wrap.

I've done similar with newly sandblasted steel and 6 to 12 months later it is still perfect.

YMMV.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Oh noooo... are you only going to paint one bit of the engine or the whole lot at this stage??? If you only paint one bit, then the rest is going to look sooo bad that you will stress about it until the lot is done

As for storing the engine, the local engine shops here coat it with Lanox (https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/in...CABEgLouvD_BwE) but any similar product would do and then wrap it tightly with cling film wrap.

I've done similar with newly sandblasted steel and 6 to 12 months later it is still perfect.

YMMV.

Awesome, I'll have a look into that!

Haha no no, I'll paint the aluminum, steel, the parts that are disassembled, everything.

The only thing that will not be painted at the end are all the new bolts which will all be replaced by the way & the hoses. 🤔

[a64pilot]

You place the head on its side and pour alcohol into the ports, in a half hour or so if the alcohol hasn’t started to leak out, the valves should be OK at least for sealing.
Turn head over and do the other valves.

A good oil, engine oil is fine and wrap the head in paper and it will be fine, of course it’s best if possible for it to stay in a climate controlled place if possible.
You want to oil the bores too and cover the engine with a sheet or similar.

In my opinion a cover that blocks dust etc, but will breathe is better than plastic, plastic can trap condensation.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

You place the head on its side and pour alcohol into the ports, in a half hour or so if the alcohol hasn’t started to leak out, the valves should be OK at least for sealing.
Turn head over and do the other valves.

A good oil, engine oil is fine and wrap the head in paper and it will be fine, of course it’s best if possible for it to stay in a climate controlled place if possible.
You want to oil the bores too and cover the engine with a sheet or similar.

In my opinion a cover that blocks dust etc, but will breathe is better than plastic, plastic can trap condensation.

OK, thanks for the response. So I suppose denatured alcohol?

Yep well that's basically who I'm asking hahah. It's a very mixed opinions thing, storing the engine 🙄

[Compass790]

My vote for storing is a cross between Wotname & A64's suggestions. I'd go for the Lanox but wrap in paper or a sheet to avoid condensation with plastic. Unless you are storing outside of course!

[sailah]

I had my cylinder head machined this spring and they neglected to really clean 100% of the cutting fluid from the head. Flash rusted 12 hours later lol in a plastic bag. No biggie came right off. But def put something on machined surfaces. He was apologetic and said they usually do but I was picking up same day so they didn't bother.

They also tested and cut my valves with a vacuum checker. He said it's better than the alcohol method but I think both are acceptable.

[a64pilot]

The alcohol thing is a shade tree mechanic check, new head or new valve job I’d not even want a wet ring, but an engine that has been in service especially one that has sat, I’d accept a little weeping, but wouldn’t want to see drops.
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