Hydrolocked? Yanmar 4JH2-TE

[Geoff54]

Originally Posted by IsaakOker

OK, so Im at the boat and going to pull the water pump">raw water pump out in a minute.

I checked and the smell and silky feel I had in mind corresponds to what came out of the elbow(smells like clean engine oil with water).

I stuck my finger In the outlet of raw water of the heat exchanger and it indeed is just water & fresh, not salty.

Also, from the three connections at the back of the exchanger, one goes to the elbow, another goes or comes from the turbo and the other comes from the oil pump which I confused with the muffler as from the elbow the exhaust dissapears aft.

There is though a coolant connection from the thermostat to the bottom of the turbo.

Hope this sounds about right!

Ooops! I forgot that you have a tubo, so things are slightly different and I don't have a diagram available. The line from the turbo is almost certainly a coolant return, in which case it will go into the exchanger body rather than the end cap. I think that, what you are calling the oil pump, is the transmission oil cooler.

The only things that should come out of the mixing elbow are raw water and exhaust gas. If it feels slippery I can think of a few possibilities:

1. Raw water that backed up into the engine washed engine oil into the exhaust.
2. There is a leak in the transmission cooler allowing oil into the raw water.
3. The slipperiness is coolant becasue of a leak in the heat exchanger.
4. The engine was previously burning oil, which left an oily residue in the mixing elbow.

Fingers crossed it's number 1.

[IsaakOker]

Sadly it's not the pump...
The pump is in perfect shape, even the Impeller.
The gear it attaches to looks also to be really shiny and still slightly cored with oil.

Looks like I'm going to leave it for today and if tomorrow morning I can't turn it over I'll lift the rocker arm off to see if I see anything else.

For some reason I'm not allowed to post images as it asks me to log in several times when trying but always denies.

Thank you all for your thoughts & help!

I'll definitely will need some more guidance tomorrow..

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by Geoff54

Ooops! I forgot that you have a tubo, so things are slightly different and I don't have a diagram available. The line from the turbo is almost certainly a coolant return, in which case it will go into the exchanger body rather than the end cap. I think that, what you are calling the oil pump, is the transmission oil cooler.

The only things that should come out of the mixing elbow are raw water and exhaust gas. If it feels slippery I can think of a few possibilities:

1. Raw water that backed up into the engine washed engine oil into the exhaust.
2. There is a leak in the transmission cooler allowing oil into the raw water.
3. The slipperiness is coolant becasue of a leak in the heat exchanger.
4. The engine was previously burning oil, which left an oily residue in the mixing elbow.

Fingers crossed it's number 1.

Well, let's see.. Hopefully it's number 1 but I think I first have to focus on getting this this to turn..

Yes, the transmission oil cooler***

It feels slippery but I just remembered that It's from my funnel I used for filling the injectors with oil earlier on as I put it down on it for a second.

So after confusing you...
Coolant came out of the turbo outlet & water out of the heat exchanger and now inspecting all parts, I can't seem to see any coolant where it shouldn't be or oil in the exhaust except of a few drops of marvel.

The elbow is also very dry right now and has black residue in it.
Sadly can't remember if it was dry when I took it off but The outlet of the heat exchanger is still a bit wet.

[Wotname]

Regarding tapping the piston with a block of wood and hammer, I would caution against this unless you know how hard to tap. As others have posted, you can cause damage by being too enthusiastic.

You might already know this but don't try tapping a piston that is already at (or near) TDC or BDC.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by IsaakOker

Well, let's see.. Hopefully it's number 1 but I think I first have to focus on getting this this to turn..



Yes, the transmission oil cooler***



It feels slippery but I just remembered that It's from my funnel I used for filling the injectors with oil earlier on as I put it down on it for a second.



So after confusing you...

Coolant came out of the turbo outlet & water out of the heat exchanger and now inspecting all parts, I can't seem to see any coolant where it shouldn't be or oil in the exhaust except of a few drops of marvel.



The elbow is also very dry right now and has black residue in it.

Sadly can't remember if it was dry when I took it off but The outlet of the heat exchanger is still a bit wet.

You seem to be doing very well with the troubleshooting and when you eventually get the cylinder head off, ONLY ROTATE THE ENGINE BY HAND. And carefully at that. Most 4JH series.... not all... have push fit liners and they tend to pop out as the piston heads up toward TDC. If your engine has been flooded the hand fit liners will make it very easy to get the pistons out[emoji1374]

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Regarding tapping the piston with a block of wood and hammer, I would caution against this unless you know how hard to tap. As others have posted, you can cause damage by being too enthusiastic.

You might already know this but don't try tapping a piston that is already at (or near) TDC or BDC.

Sure.. Before tapping or applying any force I'll think about it quite a few times haha

I'm going to clean the engine up a bit from the exterior to avoid dirt as much as possible and then I'll take the rocker arm out and let's see what Goes next..

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

You seem to be doing very well with the troubleshooting and when you eventually get the cylinder head off, ONLY ROTATE THE ENGINE BY HAND. And carefully at that. Most 4JH series.... not all... have push fit liners and they tend to pop out as the piston heads up toward TDC. If your engine has been flooded the hand fit liners will make it very easy to get the pistons out[emoji1374]

I'll be taking the rocker arm off in the next few hours so I'll try to post some pictures and see what I find.

I'm not going to pretend to know what the hand fit liners look like because I first have to see exactly what the engine looks like inside..
From service manual and drawings to reality there's quite a step normally haha

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by IsaakOker

I'll be taking the rocker arm off in the next few hours so I'll try to post some pictures and see what I find.



I'm not going to pretend to know what the hand fit liners look like because I first have to see exactly what the engine looks like inside..

From service manual and drawings to reality there's quite a step normally haha

I really hope that the engine wasn't flooded and that the failure to rotate is caused by something non malignant. Do you get any trace of movement when trying to rotate the engine with any of the suggested methods? Even a tiny bit of crankshaft rotation? If you didn't see any water in the exhaust elbow or turbo it makes me wonder if corrosion seizure is the problem
If your engine does have the slipfit dry sleeves, they just look like a thin walled pipe with a lip on one end .... a very fragile pipe and they come out very easily, avoiding the use of heavy duty pullers.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

I really hope that the engine wasn't flooded and that the failure to rotate is caused by something non malignant. Do you get any trace of movement when trying to rotate the engine with any of the suggested methods? Even a tiny bit of crankshaft rotation? If you didn't see any water in the exhaust elbow or turbo it makes me wonder if corrosion seizure is the problem
If your engine does have the slipfit dry sleeves, they just look like a thin walled pipe with a lip on one end .... a very fragile pipe and they come out very easily, avoiding the use of heavy duty pullers.

Well I also hope so.. You all seem very relaxed about it haha I don't know if I'm just more worried than I should but I've always been on sailing boats in marine environments as I do electric/fiberglass work for a living and all engines that were hydrolocked were pretty much gone.
This one is on a lake, so my hopes are that fresh water isn't as corrosive..

I normally a believe that anything can be fixed and it can even be better done than original but engines are my weak point when it comes to boat work.. So hopefully I can save it.

Who knows, maybe it's just the gearbox or some simple not to expensive part but No, when I try to move to crankshaft with the belt off and a wrench and 6ft tube on it, it DOESN'T move at all.. Not even 1mm.

So for me either rings, sleeves or something is very much seized.im also a bit worried that when trying to crank with the starter I might have bent rods or something because it wasn't moving at all and initially I though it was battery voltage/starter issue so I kept trying for a few seconds.

We'll see.. Later on I'll take it all apart but the rocker arm looks clean.. Not to much oil, not black oil and no sign of bad news yet

[IsaakOker]

Hii again, so I've taken the rocker arm off and the push rods.

If the wany thing to look for at this stage or should I take the head off?

To take the head off I have to release all the bolts but, do I have to drain the oil or something else prior?

[a64pilot]

You should drain as much coolant as you can, the oil is in the pan, there won’t be much if any oil spillage.
However if your going to pull the head, I think you need to be ready to pull and overhaul the engine, cause I believe that is the next logical step.
You should then drain the oil, so now or later your choice.

Most of us pump or suck the oil out of the dipstick tube your oil is cold so it will take awhile to do that, maybe 30 min or so and of course you need the equipment.
The suck method is I think better.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by IsaakOker

Hii again, so I've taken the rocker arm off and the push rods.



If the wany thing to look for at this stage or should I take the head off?



To take the head off I have to release all the bolts but, do I have to drain the oil or something else prior?

Drain the coolant out through one of the block drains, release the exhaust hose, undo the turbo oil feed and the drain line and seal em to stop dirt getting in.
Is the starter still attached? If it catastrophically failed and locked into the flywheel that could cause the locked engine, I'm still finding it hard to accept that freshwater flooding could seize an engine so solidly so quickly.
The rest is just undoing hoses and a bit of wiring but if the turbo is still attached to the manifold try not to damage those lube oil pipes.
It will take 2 strong guys to lift it off or an overhead lifting device, watch out for your fingers[emoji844]

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

You should drain as much coolant as you can, the oil is in the pan, there won’t be much if any oil spillage.
However if your going to pull the head, I think you need to be ready to pull and overhaul the engine, cause I believe that is the next logical step.
You should then drain the oil, so now or later your choice.

Most of us pump or suck the oil out of the dipstick tube your oil is cold so it will take awhile to do that, maybe 30 min or so and of course you need the equipment.
The suck method is I think better.

Yes, I've already drained the coolant out of the coolant drain at the exhaust Manifold & the raw water drain too.
Is there another drain somewhere?

I'm ready to pull it out.. And emptying the oil would be easier once out as the Disput side isn't very easy to access.
I was though, thinking of pulling the head of while the engine is inside the engine room to see what the state of the pistons is before taking the entire thing out.

[IsaakOker]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Drain the coolant out through one of the block drains, release the exhaust hose, undo the turbo oil feed and the drain line and seal em to stop dirt getting in.
Is the starter still attached? If it catastrophically failed and locked into the flywheel that could cause the locked engine, I'm still finding it hard to accept that freshwater flooding could seize an engine so solidly so quickly.
The rest is just undoing hoses and a bit of wiring but if the turbo is still attached to the manifold try not to damage those lube oil pipes.
It will take 2 strong guys to lift it off or an overhead lifting device, watch out for your fingers[emoji844]

Exhaust hose, wiring harness, starter, alternator, belt, fuel filter above the fuel pump, high pressure fuel hoses, coolant to the turbo are all off already.

Is it better to leave the turbo attached to the exhaust Manifold or rather take it of completely?
Obviously i will have to attach the block back on to lift the engine out into the saloon via hoist.

I've drained the raw water and coolant from the exhaust Manifold drains, is there another drain somewhere I'm missing?

Skipperpete, I'm also struggling to believe that fresh water has cause me not to be able to turn it but if I keep turning the bolt I'll make it round.. I've had a 9ft tube on it.. So I only see one solution and that is to take the head off, look at the valves and the pistons & if it looks bad then I'll take the engine out and turn it around..

[IsaakOker]

I've just tried taking off the cylinder head after taking of the turbo turbine, the heat exchanger pipe connections & 18 bolts.

The only thing I'm missing would be the fresh water pump but it's attached by 4 bolts to the head and 2 to the block, I've released the two to the block because the others are to corroded to be pulled of easily.

Also, im leaving the heat exchanger and intake Manifold on for now as I'll be cleaner outside of the engine room.

Is there any hidden bolt from the oil cooling pump, intake Manifold to Fuel pump or something that I'm missing because I can't seem to release it with a few knocks.

But I believe a mixture of oil and water/coolant came out of the bottom screw of the fresh water pump when I took it off and some of the cylinder head bolts are rusted and dry and others oily..