I lost my prop....

[EWOL Props]

Sure ! without the prop you were very fast in light winds

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Thanks I am considering all my options. The boat is in the middle of a refit, but a prop was not on the list. I think we all have had that happen to us.....

On an off note when I lost the prop it was in the evening when I was anchoring near shore. My anchor would not grab! I raised my sails instantly and narrowly avoided a grounding. Thank god I had wind to work with!!!! On a positive note I bear'ed out into the Gulf of Mexico and continued my cruise. I ended up having one of the best night sails I have ever had

[Happ]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Hello:

I was out this weekend and I lost the prop on my Beneteau 473 I am pretty sure it was the original 3 bladed bronze prop from the factory. I really don't have the budget for a new prop right now, but curious if anyone can make any suggestions or recommendations on getting a new one and what specs I should look for.

Thanks...

First I would contact Beneteau for specs. They may even offer a source. Then with their info you can find out what the price would be. It will most likely be less expensive to higher a diver to put a new prop on. Just a thought.

[tkalfaoglu]

I guess the Man Overboard button on devices would be great for such losses. At least you have some hope of diving later with SCUBA gear / have someone dive to retrieve it..

[MVDarlin]

Many options on ebay under $200

[argonauta1]

Get in the habit of checking anodes more frequently. Now that you have lost what I kept as a spare, consider buying a Max Prop. Best thing we ever invested in for our Beneteau 440

[captain_dave]

I have a used 3-bladed prop off of my Moody 46 for sale. 30mm shaft size.
Please verify shaft size. email: Datoms1114@gmail.com
I would never buy a MaxProp unless I was racing. Too many moving parts that need regular maintenance.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by captain_dave

I would never buy a MaxProp unless I was racing. Too many moving parts that need regular maintenance.

You clearly have never owned a Max Prop. They are well designed and built and require no more maintenance than regular cleaning (as does any prop) and lubrication every few years (typically when the boat is hauled for paint.)

[captain_dave]

I've owned two MaxProps in my 20 years' sailing. Both failed. Both cost around $1500 to recondition. Case closed. If you like reliability, use only a fixed prop.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by captain_dave

I've owned two MaxProps in my 20 years' sailing. Both failed.

I have installed and serviced many, many Max Props over the last two and half decades. I have never seen one "fail" except thru neglect and lack of maintenance. Maybe that was your problem.

[HarrisonM]

I found another prop!!!!!

I looked all over the place and nothing with a 30mm shaft. I did call Beneteau. They were helpful with info, but did not know where I could find it. It took some looking, but Vetus (https://www.vetus.com/) was the only place I could find it. My local Marine store (Sigma Marine) here in Tarpon Springs is a dealer for them and I ordered it - $775. Everything is back ordered right now so it is a 2-3 delivery.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

I found another prop!!!!!

I looked all over the place and nothing with a 30mm shaft. I did call Beneteau. They were helpful with info, but did not know where I could find it. It took some looking, but Vetus (https://www.vetus.com/) was the only place I could find it. My local Marine store (Sigma Marine) here in Tarpon Springs is a dealer for them and I ordered it - $775. Everything is back ordered right now so it is a 2-3 delivery.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Please check the taper fit between the new prop and your existing shaft.

The existing shaft is unlikely to match exactly to the new prop.

Not just push it one and see it doesn't wobble etc but actually check the mating surfaces are in full (or at least say 90%) contact. To does this, you need to use engineering blue (or similar) and AFAIK, it has to be done dry (i.e. not by a diver). Google or YouTube will show you how.

In the likely event of not having full contact, you should lap the prop / shaft interface until you full or very close to full contact. Again this is a straightforward easy DIY job.

The torque transfer between the prop and shaft is taken by the friction between the taper surfaces and not by the key. Reducing the area of the mating surfaces reduces the maximum torque which can be transferred.

The job of the key is to prevent the shaft from turning when tightening the nut.