Identification of Yanmar, Please

[ti325v]

This boat is powered by the same six that I have, and is 18 X 5 meters or so...
My boat falls between the two, 15 X 4 but a REAL monster ! 2 inch thick tropical hardwood hull planking, 2.5 X 6 inch frames on 12 inch centers....

[MitchM]

does this hardy beast of an engine run rough, or run not at all ? if it runs, 'an overhaul' may not be necessary. i'd give it some clean fuel and a nice new primary (racor style water separator filter) and change the secondary on engine filter and oil and oil filter. how many hours do think is on the engine? have some one check the engine mounts, see what color the smoke is out of the exhaust, use a laser thermometer to see what temperature drop you are getting across your heat exchanger.. feel your mixing elbow after the engine has been running, if it's too hot to comfortaly touch it is probably carboned up and needs to be replaced. you can do all that stuff yourself if you are willing to give it a try instead of trusting someone else's judgment...an independent engine survey by a mechanic who won't make several thousand on recommending a complete overhaul might be a wise idea. the mechanic can check all this previous s stuff and also the state of the injectors, valves and turbo (which is what i think the T usually means on yan's model numbers.) what is involved in a 'complete overhaul'? new injectors, valves, ring pistons, ?? and why is that needed ??

[ti325v]

This is what $35,000 buys in Asia.....Complete 15 X 4.2 meters, hot water, toilet, cooking facilities,roof, engine, anchors, lines, all tanks, pumps, stainless steel work, complete dive boat to carry 20 divers and a total of 30 people..

[Laidback]

In the First post - we read "These are used all over south east asia to power 20 meter or so wood hulled fishing boats... "
That was the reason for the deduction of 100 HP +

Be that may :-
I had another look at the Engine plate, and enhanced the photo a tad to see if the stampings were clear.
No doubt that the power rating is given as 35 PS the PS is now obsolete, but was used in the far east. The PS is around 98.5% 0f Metric HP
Therefore 35 PS equates to approx 34.5 HP.
The plate also shows this rating is achieved at 1600 RPM and 522 RPM.
(note the 1600 could also read 16CC ???)
If we assume that the 1600 RPM is the crankshaft RPM - the torque will be 113.2 ft/lbs. While the torque at the prop-shaft turning at 522 RPM will be 347 ft/lbs.
Therefore, with that amount real power in Torque and an appropriate propeller - that is good engine for the job. If the engine has not yet been installed, I suggest connecting up a water supply etc... and giving it a thorough Bench test.

[ti325v]

Hi Mitch...
THANKS !!!!
Still no literature from Yanmar...No answer even !
I am inclined to agree with you, as these things are famous for running for YEARS...
There is nobody to give me a formal survey...the idea is counter to the entire culture here. Hey man it runs, I am giving you a year guarantee, so do not worry about it !
I have pulled the inspection plate on the gear box, beautiful shiny gears...grey scuff marks, but nothing caught my finger nail when dragged across any tooth. The transmission filter was clean and the oil looked as new.
The motor oil, is slightly used, and did not show any nasty sparkles one would associate with engine damage.
The cooling lines showed no deposits or scaling, ( but I am concerned as there is obviously a place for a radiator cap, cap not included....and they plan to cool it with sea water....I have no idea if there is any zinc in this engine....This may demonstrate my level of lack of knowledge about this thing)
The rebuild consists of new pistons ( re boring) crank and rod bearings, fuel system...pretty much the works, "Qualified" mechanic here is $1 an hour or less.
If the thing is still sealed from the factory I would prefer to keep it that way...The repair shop conditions are deplorable, but they keep old hardware running forever....
I have a 30 year old honda motorcycle, 100 cc`s. Runs like new.....They cast new parts to replace stuff that is out of production....it is pretty amazing. My Honda has a home made cylinder and head !
I will follow your advice when it is running, I have I.R. thermometer here, NOBODY else does...what kind of temps should I be looking for ??
THX much
Larry

[ti325v]

I ran the calculations, but had NO idea if it was adequate,,,,,Thanks SO much for your input !!!!
Anything more like suggested prop diameter ? blade pitch ???
Thanks again !!!!
Larry

[Laidback]

Originally Posted by ti325v

I ran the calculations, but had NO idea if it was adequate,,,,,Thanks SO much for your input !!!!
Anything more like suggested prop diameter ? blade pitch ???
Thanks again !!!!
Larry

Larry,
Running Temperature : diesel engines run most efficiently when they are hot,
Water temperature in the engine block should be in the range 185°<> 200° F. (85°C <> 93.3°C)
The Prop's diameter and pitch can only be calculated if all the hull's dimensions and specs are known. In all probability the Vietnamese who have similar hulls will know what prop to use, Good Luck - I am presently located not far to your West.
Richard

[MitchM]

"..The cooling lines showed no deposits or scaling, ( but I am concerned as there is obviously a place for a radiator cap, cap not included."
--most standard radiator caps working at 7 to 10 pounds per square inch will work on the yanmars. there is a pressure tester called a 'stant' available here in the US which is a simple hand pump , one end has a gauge one end has a radiator cap. you put its cap onto the radiator then you can pressurise the system and test for leaky hoses or radiators...since this engine is raw salt water cooled so i would DEFINITELY look for some zincs some where... and carefully watch that your radiator stays sound. there is probably a similar device available for the far east market.

'...and they plan to cool it with sea water....I have no idea if there is any zinc in this engine....' well lots of early yanmars were raw water cooled , they were built tough and last fine. i just came back friday from a visit to mack boring yanmar's e ast coast distributor. they ahve records there of an 18 hp yanmar from the 70's with 28,000 documented hours on it, still going strong with no rebuilds needed yet. using your laser thermometer, measure the temp of the water coming into the heat exchanger off the thermostat area, then compare that temp with the reading as the hot gases are being cooled by that raw water. a good temp drop is 30 degrees from say 190 to 200 inlet to 160 fahrenheit outlet. if you have a really hot exhaust reading, you may have a corroded/carboned up mixing elbow at the back end of the engine, where the hot gas and water go into the exhaust hose. this is one area where having the $1 guys make you a good new mixing elbow would be a good idea (even to carry around as a spare...) when the mixing elbow gets carboned up from the carbon deposits rapidly cooling , it makes it harder for the engine to push the hot exhaust gases out. the engine won't run as efficiently, and yours is already at a pretty low 1600 rpm (compare the new engines running at 3450 wide open throttle and 2800-3000 as continuous operating rate. )


""The rebuild consists of new pistons ( re boring) ?? " Noooooo! Why rebuild (ie make bigger and bore out) your cylinders to accomodate (new) oversize pistons , unless you have absolutely marginal usable compression ??? you and they don't know if you need this . have them rig up a water supply into the raw water pump, and turn on the engine. see if it gets close to 1600 rpm with a tachometer . measure the h 2 o temp at t he thermostat block and at the exhaust elbow....



crank and rod bearings, Holy cow !! i seriously doubt that you need a new crankshaft or pushrods, or bearings.... for same reason as above..

"I will follow your advice when it is running, I have I.R. thermometer here, NOBODY else does...what kind of temps should I be looking for ?? '

look for a 30 degree or so temperature drop measured from the hottest place on your block (around 190-200 degrees F. ) (on newer engines this temp can be obtained at your thermostat housing , then the raw water cooling the block should result in a good temperature drop say 30 degrees by the time the raw water is mixing with hot exhaust gases to cool down in the mixing elbow attached to your exhaust hose.

yanmar 1000 or in your case 'unknown hours' maintenance :
--get a nice clean new fuel tank, or clean the slime from the bottom of the one you'll get with the boat.
-- run your hands over all fuel lines , both the rubber ones into the filter from the tank, and then the metal ones coming into each injector on the engine from the fuel filter (all 6 injectors: each has its own line. feel for diesel drips or wetness; if so this means possible leaking fuel line/hose AND big problems in that if air gets into the fuel line , the engine won't run right or -- worst case, not run at all. Rx is to replace the solid lines and/or hose.
.
--new oil filter, change oil, change fuel filters , get and carry 2 each extras.
--change raw water pump impeller and check for good seal on radiator cap. if you see steam coming out from edges of cap it's either a bad seal or a bad cap. put a colored cloth over top the rad cap, run the engine 10 minutes and if you see wetness on the cloth get the cap replaced.
--check tension of alternator and water pump drive belts. 1/2 inch deflection is maximum allowable. adjust belts to be this tight. get and carry extra alt belt and also extra water pump belt and 2 raw water pump impellers.

there is a website called michigan wheel which has a propeller size calculator on it.--
boatdiesel.com is the site where you can sign up, look on the left side for 'register/become a member stuff. it is the best $25 in the family budget. i think $40 gets you access to copies of service manuals and data on your engine which in your situation would be a tremendous help...

fair winds to you, from the freezing shores of lake erie..

[ti325v]

Hi Richard,
Thanks so much for your help and advice....if you are in the area, you know the attitude " Its good enough"....well maybe for you, but not for me ! So it seems this thing should be running a closed loop with radiator... unless it has a little itty bitty water pump....do you think it is possible it can run with sea water as coolant ?
I have my doubts, of course, they have tried it and it works. I do trust the builder, but we know knowledge is power....and this thing is mine now, as with all of my things I intend to take proper care of it. With nothing from Yanmar, I am depending on the knowledge and generosity of people like yours self..Please understand, I did not want to own a boat....I was forced to build it because the only guy in the country who has dive boats for rent thought he had me by the short hairs and doubled the rent.... this boat will pay for itself in 2.6 years of rental costs..
Thanks
Larry

[MitchM]

"..The cooling lines showed no deposits or scaling, ( but I am concerned as there is obviously a place for a radiator cap, cap not included."
--most standard radiator caps working at 7 to 10 pounds per square inch will work on the yanmars. there is a pressure tester called a 'stant' available here in the US which is a simple hand pump , one end has a gauge one end has a radiator cap. you put its cap onto the radiator then you can pressurise the system and test for leaky hoses or radiators...since this engine is raw salt water cooled so i would DEFINITELY look for some zincs some where... and carefully watch that your radiator stays sound. there is probably a similar device available for the far east market.

'...and they plan to cool it with sea water....I have no idea if there is any zinc in this engine....' well lots of early yanmars were raw water cooled , they were built tough and last fine. i just came back friday from a visit to mack boring yanmar's e ast coast distributor. they ahve records there of an 18 hp yanmar from the 70's with 28,000 documented hours on it, still going strong with no rebuilds needed yet. using your laser thermometer, measure the temp of the water coming into the heat exchanger off the thermostat area, then compare that temp with the reading as the hot gases are being cooled by that raw water. a good temp drop is 30 degrees from say 190 to 200 inlet to 160 fahrenheit outlet. if you have a really hot exhaust reading, you may have a corroded/carboned up mixing elbow at the back end of the engine, where the hot gas and water go into the exhaust hose. this is one area where having the $1 guys make you a good new mixing elbow would be a good idea (even to carry around as a spare...) when the mixing elbow gets carboned up from the carbon deposits rapidly cooling , it makes it harder for the engine to push the hot exhaust gases out. the engine won't run as efficiently, and yours is already at a pretty low 1600 rpm (compare the new engines running at 3450 wide open throttle and 2800-3000 as continuous operating rate. )


""The rebuild consists of new pistons ( re boring) ?? " Noooooo! Why rebuild (ie make bigger and bore out) your cylinders to accomodate (new) oversize pistons , unless you have absolutely marginal usable compression ??? you and they don't know if you need this . have them rig up a water supply into the raw water pump, and turn on the engine. see if it gets close to 1600 rpm with a tachometer . measure the h 2 o temp at t he thermostat block and at the exhaust elbow....



crank and rod bearings, Holy cow !! i seriously doubt that you need a new crankshaft or pushrods, or bearings.... for same reason as above..

"I will follow your advice when it is running, I have I.R. thermometer here, NOBODY else does...what kind of temps should I be looking for ?? '

look for a 30 degree or so temperature drop measured from the hottest place on your block (around 190-200 degrees F. ) (on newer engines this temp can be obtained at your thermostat housing , then the raw water cooling the block should result in a good temperature drop say 30 degrees by the time the raw water is mixing with hot exhaust gases to cool down in the mixing elbow attached to your exhaust hose.

yanmar 1000 or in your case 'unknown hours' maintenance :
--get a nice clean new fuel tank, or clean the slime from the bottom of the one you'll get with the boat.
-- run your hands over all fuel lines , both the rubber ones into the filter from the tank, and then the metal ones coming into each injector on the engine from the fuel filter (all 6 injectors: each has its own line. feel for diesel drips or wetness; if so this means possible leaking fuel line/hose AND big problems in that if air gets into the fuel line , the engine won't run right or -- worst case, not run at all. Rx is to replace the solid lines and/or hose.
.
--new oil filter, change oil, change fuel filters , get and carry 2 each extras.
--change raw water pump impeller and check for good seal on radiator cap. if you see steam coming out from edges of cap it's either a bad seal or a bad cap. put a colored cloth over top the rad cap, run the engine 10 minutes and if you see wetness on the cloth get the cap replaced.
--check tension of alternator and water pump drive belts. 1/2 inch deflection is maximum allowable. adjust belts to be this tight. get and carry extra alt belt and also extra water pump belt and 2 raw water pump impellers.

there is a website called michigan wheel which has a propeller size calculator on it.--
boatdiesel.com is the site where you can sign up, look on the left side for 'register/become a member stuff. it is the best $25 in the family budget. i think $40 gets you access to copies of service manuals and data on your engine which in your situation would be a tremendous help...

fair winds to you, from the freezing shores of lake erie..

[ti325v]

Hi Mitch,
Big +1....as above...With nothing from Yanmar, I am depending on the knowledge and generosity of people like yours self.
THANKS !
Larry

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by ti325v

I ran the calculations, but had NO idea if it was adequate,,,,,Thanks SO much for your input !!!!
Anything more like suggested prop diameter ? blade pitch ???
Thanks again !!!!
Larry

It would be nice to know what kind of torque it has. Usually the longer the stroke in relation to the size of the piston will give you more torque. A motor with large pistons rely on RPM's to create hp, in which you would have to gear it down to the get the torque.

That torque is what will determine the prop. You say there are other boats in the area that have the same motor. If they have the same ratio in the trany then you could run the same prop as they do, assuming the boats are close to the same size and design.

Like I said earlier, if you could contact someone in Japan/Yanmar and get the specs it would help. Or maybe even the guys that are selling you the motor. Maybe they have a source of contact, being able to rebuild it and all.

Personally, I would invest in a heat exchanger system. There are a lot of problems involved with running raw water cooling.

[ti325v]

Originally Posted by MitchM

"..The cooling lines showed no deposits or scaling, ( but I am concerned as there is obviously a place for a radiator cap, cap not included."
Okay....me = ignorant....
so there is a separate closed loop cooling system, and heat exchanger ?
--most standard radiator caps working at 7 to 10 pounds per square inch will work on the yanmars. there is a pressure tester called a 'stant' available here in the US which is a simple hand pump , one end has a gauge one end has a radiator cap. you put its cap onto the radiator then you can pressurise the system and test for leaky hoses or radiators...since this engine is raw salt water cooled so i would DEFINITELY look for some zincs some where... and carefully watch that your radiator stays sound. there is probably a similar device available for the far east market.

'...and they plan to cool it with sea water....I have no idea if there is any zinc in this engine....' well lots of early yanmars were raw water cooled , they were built tough and last fine. i just came back friday from a visit to mack boring yanmar's e ast coast distributor. they ahve records there of an 18 hp yanmar from the 70's with 28,000 documented hours on it, still going strong with no rebuilds needed yet. using your laser thermometer, measure the temp of the water coming into the heat exchanger off the thermostat area, then compare that temp with the reading as the hot gases are being cooled by that raw water. a good temp drop is 30 degrees from say 190 to 200 inlet to 160 fahrenheit outlet. if you have a really hot exhaust reading, you may have a corroded/carboned up mixing elbow at the back end of the engine, where the hot gas and water go into the exhaust hose. this is one area where having the $1 guys make you a good new mixing elbow would be a good idea (even to carry around as a spare...)
Will do, what is mixing elbow ? Remember me = ignorant ! Can you tell me how to say it in Vietnamese ???
when the mixing elbow gets carboned up from the carbon deposits rapidly cooling , it makes it harder for the engine to push the hot exhaust gases out. the engine won't run as efficiently, and yours is already at a pretty low 1600 rpm (compare the new engines running at 3450 wide open throttle and 2800-3000 as continuous operating rate. )

Smoke stack will be 3 meters long....maybe make 2 ???? The exhaust will cool a lot I think, even though they wrap the pipes in asbestos !


""The rebuild consists of new pistons ( re boring) ?? " Noooooo! Why rebuild (ie make bigger and bore out) your cylinders to accomodate (new) oversize pistons , unless you have absolutely marginal usable compression I ???
I was just answering another posters question about what a rebuild consists of. I do not want to open it, thanks for the news from Rhode Island...I actually called them yesterday...they know nothing about the engine.
you and they don't know if you need this . have them rig up a water supply into the raw water pump, and turn on the engine. see if it gets close to 1600 rpm with a tachometer . measure the h 2 o temp at t he thermostat block and at the exhaust elbow....



crank and rod bearings, Holy cow !! i seriously doubt that you need a new crankshaft or pushrods, or bearings.... for same reason as above..
I was just answering another posters question about what a rebuild consists of. I do not want to open it !

"I will follow your advice when it is running, I have I.R. thermometer here, NOBODY else does...what kind of temps should I be looking for ?? '

look for a 30 degree or so temperature drop measured from the hottest place on your block (around 190-200 degrees F. ) (on newer engines this temp can be obtained at your thermostat housing , then the raw water cooling the block should result in a good temperature drop say 30 degrees by the time the raw water is mixing with hot exhaust gases to cool down in the mixing elbow attached to your exhaust hose.

yanmar 1000 or in your case 'unknown hours' maintenance :
--get a nice clean new fuel tank, or clean the slime from the bottom of the one you'll get with the boat.
New boat=new fuel tank.
-- run your hands over all fuel lines , both the rubber ones into the filter from the tank, and then the metal ones coming into each injector on the engine from the fuel filter (all 6 injectors: each has its own line. feel for diesel drips or wetness; if so this means possible leaking fuel line/hose AND big problems in that if air gets into the fuel line , the engine won't run right or -- worst case, not run at all. Rx is to replace the solid lines and/or hose.
Will Do !
.
--new oil filter, change oil, change fuel filters , get and carry 2 each extras.
Ok !
--change raw water pump impeller and check for good seal on radiator cap. if you see steam coming out from edges of cap it's either a bad seal or a bad cap. put a colored cloth over top the rad cap, run the engine 10 minutes and if you see wetness on the cloth get the cap replaced.
Gotcha !
--check tension of alternator and water pump drive belts. 1/2 inch deflection is maximum allowable. adjust belts to be this tight. get and carry extra alt belt and also extra water pump belt and 2 raw water pump impellers.
OKAY !

there is a website called michigan wheel which has a propeller size calculator on it.--
boatdiesel.com is the site where you can sign up, look on the left side for 'register/become a member stuff. it is the best $25 in the family budget. i think $40 gets you access to copies of service manuals and data on your engine which in your situation would be a tremendous help...
Tried like heck to get onto boat diesel, I would pay anything, but I think they block I.P. address from Vietnam. No way to create account !!!

fair winds to you, from the freezing shores of lake erie..

THANK YOU !!!!!!!!

[ti325v]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

It would be nice to know what kind of torque it has.
Another poster came up with about 350 ft/lbs.
Usually the longer the stroke in relation to the size of the piston will give you more torque. A motor with large pistons rely on RPM's to create hp, in which you would have to gear it down to the get the torque.
shaft R.P.M. = 522 at 1600 crank R.P.M.

That torque is what will determine the prop. You say there are other boats in the area that have the same motor. If they have the same ratio in the trany then you could run the same prop as they do, assuming the boats are close to the same size and design.

Like I said earlier, if you could contact someone in Japan/Yanmar and get the specs it would help. Or maybe even the guys that are selling you the motor. Maybe they have a source of contact, being able to rebuild it and all.
Nothing forthcoming from Yanmar Japan.
The mentality here prevents this exchange of information....there are NO books about ANYTHING..
they beat it with a hammer till it works, and I have no idea how to say fuel injector, heat exchanger, or any thing like it in Vietnamese...it is likely there are regional words for that sort of thing, so there is no information forth coming locally, hence my desperate web search.
Personally, I would invest in a heat exchanger system. There are a lot of problems involved with running raw water cooling.

I have been given the impression there is currently one in place, can you have a look at the photos and give me your interpretation ?
There is a radiator cap, and a large box which just might house such a system....and a few extra coolant lines that I could not figure out..
Please remember, me = ignorant of diesels. I did not want to own a boat but had no choice... see previous post...
Again my sincerest thanks to you and everybody who has contributed information...

[delmarrey]

Yeah! The forth picture does show a heat exchanger. And your raw water pump is in the second picture, the one w/o hoses attached.

It sure has a funny alternator system. It must be a gear reduction of some sort. And it appears to be a double ended motor, maybe so if you want twin screws one will go in reverse. Or it's for a PTO of some sort. Donno!

Good luck on your venture!
Chow!