Injection pump removal

[sinnerman]

As a quick check I would pull the injector lines off at the injectors. Put a plastic cup under each line and then crank the engine. See how much fuel is injected into each cup. Try it at "idle power" and "full throttle".

The fuel level should be approximately the same in each cup.

Corrosion from water can sometimes cause the pistons / check valves to stick in an injector pump.

You can try running "marvel mystery oil" through the pump to see if it will free up the parts.

Another thing to try is " Liquid Moly Diesel Purge". This is NOT put in the fuel tank, but rather run in a closed loop from a container (or the can) to the fuel pump and then back to the container from the injectors' return line which sends fuel back to the fuel tank. It can clean out any gunk in the injection system.

There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this. Here is one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABRkW_2aYnU

Again, it is not to be put in the fuel tank. And keep it away from the engine mounts as it can damage the elastomer...

my two cents

cheers

[cottonsail]

Without manifold removal you need a 14" "wobble" head 1/4" drive extension. So says a retired Snap-on guy. That makes that top back bolt a piece of cake to remove. I did it on my W-40 Westerbeke (a Perkins 4-107). Additionally, I got a rebuilt pump from parts4engines.com in Great Britian. I do not remember exactly how much but I do remember it being surprisingly reasonable even with air freight.

[arcticmonkey]

a pesky pump problem
as easy as it looks (pump removal) I agree with rest... take it off yourself
then to ease your mind find a good shop git er done yer perky will love you for it
I even took pics of my removal easy to do and good reference

[caffel]

Send out the injectors along with the injector pump. Replace or rebuild the fuel pump at the same time.
Have a professional time the pump as he installs it. This is the safest way to avoid second guessing the performance 1000 hours down the road.

[Shaneesprit]

Probably ok on an old diesel, but would need to be running in the place.
I wouldn’t risk it on a common rail engine.

[01kiwijohn]

Hey, before pulling things apart; if it starts and runs for a short while, does it run on all cylinders? If so, not likely an injection pump problem. Somewhere, you've probably got a small air ingestion problem in the suction side of the system. Ask me how I learned this.

[skipperpete]

Suction restriction and leaks are for sure the most common cause of Diesel engine fuel problems but the design of CAV CAV Dpa pumps introduce a very high level of intolerance to air in the system. Traditional inline pumps have a pumping element for each injector and can tolerate a bit of air briefly and continue to splutter away on the other cylinders until the air is purged back to the tank by the self priming valve or restriction orifice....... but the DPA pump has only a pair of tiny pistons operating in opposition as a single pumping element so even one tiny bubble of air stops ALL injection and to make matters worse, those little pistons are free floating in the hydraulic head bores and filled very precisely by the governor and the vane pump pressure via the metering valve. These things are touchy and I’m always in awe of how well they work on so many different types of diesel engines, especially considering how old the design is.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by taz2

Hello, sadly the injection pump on my westerbeke 4 108 diesel engine has to be removed, due to it not functioning as it should. It is not pushing fuel to injectors, 2,3 and 4.

The engine will only start when the lift pump is used then dies. I had a mechanic come out try to get it to run. The engine responded as with all the other previous attempts. Starts, after a few seconds dies.

The mechanic and I concluded fuel starvation as the fuel pump is not working and would need to be removed, rebuilt or replaced.

My question is, has anyone removed their fuel pump and if so what should the I be looking out for? Someone mention something about making sure "timing" is correct and that the engine needs to be in the correct position! How can this be done if the engine cannot run?

Need help please.

I removed my CAV-6 Westerbeke pump. Yours is probably CAV-4. On line manuals are available. It is two stage with a rotary vane boosting the inlet to about 1500 psi. This feeds a single cam operated high pressure plunger pump whose output is directed by a rotary valve to the four output lines to the injectors. Any dirt in the system silts in the first stage vane pump blades and the high pressure pump is starved. Crazy simple but internal clearances are microns and all parts are matched. Hire a good shop to rebuild.

Difficulties were getting the high pressure lines to seal. Everything else was ok with care and photos

[gonesail]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

Another thing to try is " Liquid Moly Diesel Purge". This is NOT put in the fuel tank, but rather run in a closed loop from a container (or the can) to the fuel pump

another method .. possibly easier .. is to put the diesel purge liquid in the primary racor fuel filter

[dghaynie]

I have removed and then reinstalled my injection pump on my Westerbeke 4-108 engine. Not difficult if you have the tools for the job and if you insure the timing marks are aligned. Also the fuel line from the pump to injector #3 must be correctly and totally tightened at the pump end before the pump is installed on the engine since after the pump is installed it is not possible to tighten the nut on the pump end of that fuel line to the #3 injector.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by gonesail

another method .. possibly easier .. is to put the diesel purge liquid in the primary racor fuel filter

That’s one of the suggested methods of administering the product but if you have a hi return flow or a permanent bleed -off to the tank you lose the manufacturers implied advantage of burning up the undiluted product in a single treatment. I think the product has merit in that it probably removes wax deposits on the pump elements and injector nozzles, provides a guaranteed dry ( no emulsified water )flush of the injector pump and ..... maybe ..... cleans the nozzle tips. I already use the Liquimoly molybdenum disulfide lube oil additive and am aware that LiquiMoly is no fly by night snake oil seller so I’m going to explore this diesel purge product with a set of known dirty nozzles and see how it goes. I know the data sheet says “for all Diesel engines” but there’s no way I’d run a common rail engine on this stuff.