Injector pump not pumping to 2 injectors

[msponer]

Originally Posted by seabreez

Before you take anything apart. I would add 1 litre of transmission oil in the fuel tank and run this for some time to see if this will lubricate the pump and injector. We had to do this with a number of diesel engines to swell up seals to prevent leakage and other diesel engines to help with the black smoke. This is due to the no lead removal in the fuel. Let me know if you try it and the results. Thanks Roger

How big was the diesel tank that you added a liter of transmission oil to? Our tanks are ~125 gallons each, though I also have a 5 gallon jug I could draw from.

Are there seals in the injector pump? I am completely ignorant about what is inside one. I imagined little springs and metal valves.

Originally Posted by shakey doug

How long had the motor been sitting prior to problem? Did you find any water or range silt at Filter change?

The engine sat unused for 16 months. We only planned to be away for a few months, but life became chaotic. There was silt in the bowl, no water. What is range silt?

Thank you.

[Horus]

Am I right; you dismantled the high pressure pump? You are writing about what's in it. Mounting the pump again by yourself is impossible; the timing of the pump has to be adjusted in a workshop! Another point of interest is the low pressure pump on the engine; is that pump also clean and doing well? Is that checked?

[msponer]

Originally Posted by Horus

Am I right; you dismantled the high pressure pump? You are writing about what's in it. Mounting the pump again by yourself is impossible; the timing of the pump has to be adjusted in a workshop! Another point of interest is the low pressure pump on the engine; is that pump also clean and doing well? Is that checked?

No, we haven't touched the high pressure pump except to clean the little needle valves that screw in beneath the high pressure output lines. That's as far as any mechanic would go with the pump.

I haven't checked the low pressure pump. It bleeds the engine when I flick the little lever on it. Fuel readily siphons from the tank and through the high pressure pump when we cleaned the needle valves.

Do you think the low pressure pump could still be problem?

[Horus]

Originally Posted by msponer

No, we haven't touched the high pressure pump except to clean the little needle valves that screw in beneath the high pressure output lines. That's as far as any mechanic would go with the pump.


I haven't checked the low pressure pump. It bleeds the engine when I flick the little lever on it. Fuel readily siphons from the tank and through the high pressure pump when we cleaned the needle valves.

Do you think the low pressure pump could still be problem?

The output of the h p pump (3x on a 3 cylinder) are sometimes fastened not with six sided mounts but 5 sided these are not to touch and are for adjustment/timing.
When you took out these; I should say demount pump and bring it for revision to a specialised workshop.


Up to the low pressure pump you have there migt be a smal cover with in the middle a smal bolt on it. Under this cover there is a nylon filter. Please look for the specs of your pump on the internet.

[seabreez]

In a previous post I mentioned that you could add transmission fluid in the fuel tank to add lubricity. You can safely add 1 litre per 100 litres or one litre per 25 gallons. Roger...

[shakey doug]

A lot of previous posts are completely on the wrong track. A 4JH2E has a jerk type pump fitted. Post #3 DougR is on the right Track given the sitting around time with sus fuel quality another culprit can be a slipping control sleeve/rack screw allowing the plunger to rotate out of sync both these symptoms are generally due to contaminated fuel. The needle valves you refer to are the delivery valves these some times can seize or break springs. NEVER EVER Poke anything in them or try to repair them they come as a matched unit.
If feeling comfortable to do so remove the front 5 screw plate behind here you will find be able see if the element indexing marks have slipped or visual corrosion signs. Having said all this I recommend, remove pump and take it to a Injection shop as this type of work is far beyond most DYIs on this Forum.

[powsmias]

Originally Posted by capt jgw

I took the pump off my Universal 5411 to the local diesel injection shop. They replaced a couple of springs, cleaned and tuned it and tested the nozzles for $200. Replacement cost would be over $600. Money well spent.

good news to me.. bought a boat with a new vetus (70 hrs) on it but was on the hard for 10 yrs. added new fuel, battery, starter and turned the key but the corrosion on ignition switch changed it up to hotwire near engine. turned over a bunch and was happy that oil got flowing before it actually did fire cause when it fired it did at full throttle, couldn't shut it down so he smothered the intake, removed the cable and tried again, same thing and one more time as well. a motor that hasn't run in 10 yrs or so and then at that speed was cause for concern and figured "well there goes about 9 grand". asked mechanic if i had a governor and he said oh yeah or you wouldn't have a motor now.. sending out injector pump next week.. hangin on tooth and nail