Is my pump toast?

[BurningDaylight]

The sea water pump on my yanmar 2qm20 had water pouring out the weep hole. I removed the pump, and the bearings were rusting and the seals were torn in pieces. After quite a while of carefully removing the pieces of the seals, I noticed the inside of the pump housing appears to have rust damage. Below are some pics of the inside. I'm thinking its toast, what are your thoughts? I'm hoping a friend on Facebook has a used pump for sale, he's checking, so fingers crossed. If he can't find it, any chance someone else has one? Can I seal off the hole for the old pump and install some kind of electric pump?

[delmarrey]

Yep! That's too far gone.

This is a good reason for fresh water flushing while in storage. Or just removing the impeller for longterm storage.

[belizesailor]

Yep, way past gone...new pump time.

[BurningDaylight]

Working on finding a used one. I've only had this engine running about 20 mins, so I don't know what else could be wrong with the engine and don't want to sink $500+ into a water pump and find more engine problems. Ah, the joy of a used boat with old engine

[Stu Jackson]

Who is charging you $550 for a pump? Rip off.

Depco Pump Company

And yes, if you need a temporary solution, run an electrical pump for raw water cooling.

[sailorchic34]

Hum. If it were me, I might see if I could find a flat washer or have one machined that had the same inside diameter that fits the seal and JB weld that into the wet side. The bearing side does not have seals so the broken edge is cosmetic there.

That would be a temporary fix but should work for a bit.

Another "cheap blonde fix" would be to buy a 12V electric pump Wayne 12 Volt Transfer Pump — 3/4in. Ports, 340 GPH, 12 Volt Motor, Model# PC1 | 12 Volt Pumps| Northern Tool + Equipment

that pumps oh 4-5 gpm and use that at a temporary pump. You need about 3 gallons a minute for the 2 and 3gm's. Most marine or automotive (jegs) pumps list output at 0 psi head. So getting a electric pump that does 4-5 should work fine for a short time.

[BurningDaylight]

Thanks for info. I am going to call depco tomorrow and see what they have. All the yanmar dealers and ones I found online were $500-$800. I believe the guy that was looking found me a used one cheap. Worst case I guess I could make a cover for the hole in the engine and use an electric pump as suggested. Any thoughts how long the electric pump would be OK to use for? It won't flood the exhaust while idling? Sorry, still new to all this.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by BurningDaylight

Thanks for info. I am going to call depco tomorrow and see what they have. All the yanmar dealers and ones I found online were $500-$800. I believe the guy that was looking found me a used one cheap. Worst case I guess I could make a cover for the hole in the engine and use an electric pump as suggested. Any thoughts how long the electric pump would be OK to use for? It won't flood the exhaust while idling? Sorry, still new to all this.

99% certain this pump is some standard model from Sherwood. Yanmar doesn't make the raw water pump, they buy them and mark them up.

Took me a little research but I was able to find out the Sherwood model to replace the pump on my Westerbeke for less than half the price.

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by skipmac

99% certain this pump is some standard model from Sherwood. Yanmar doesn't make the raw water pump, they buy them and mark them up.

Took me a little research but I was able to find out the Sherwood model to replace the pump on my Westerbeke for less than half the price.

The OP's engine is raw water cooled, so the pump is not the typical side pump like a fresh water cooled unit. There is a tiny hole in the block behind the pump for recirculation. A self tapping screw works to seal that (don't ask me how I know ).

I would make sure there is a good sea strainer on the inlet to the electric pump. Also look at Jegs and summit racing as they have some nicer 12v electric pumps. A good electric pump could last years.

The water pumps on the old QM series are rather dear to yanmar.

If it's sized for 3 GPM it should not overfill the exhaust with the engine running, even at idle. I would add a normally open oil pressure switch (with a tee to the regular oil pressure switch. that turns the pump on when the oil pressure is high enough (engine running). Also wired in series with the key switch.. That way it will not overfill when cranking, which would be a major problem.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

The OP's engine is raw water cooled, so the pump is not the typical side pump like a fresh water cooled unit. There is a tiny hole in the block behind the pump for recirculation. A self tapping screw works to seal that (don't ask me how I know ).

Oh, I stand corrected. The close ups looked just like the guts of the Sherwood raw water pump I pulled off of my W58, even including the corrosion.

[hugosalt]

Stu in # 5 post has it right. Bought replacement for my 3 GM approx $500. Yanmar pump (Japan made) last year for $200.+ from Depco (European made) ...is same pump that
came with European made Yanmar GM motors.

[BurningDaylight]

A self tapping screw, good to know. For some reason I was thinking the hole was larger. But the more I think about it, I believe you are right. So my plan is if the guy doesn't come through, which I believe he will, then I'll order from depco if they have one. If not, then seal the small hole and use a 12v pump. Learning more every day thanks to the people here and other sailors I've met online. Thanks!

[BurningDaylight]

Well Depco is out, very nice people, but unfortunately the pump for the 2qm and 3qm is proprietary to yanmar. But the guy I was talking to has one, he is taking it apart today to make sure its good, and hopefully I'll be all set.