Keyed ignition w delay

[The Garbone]

At this moment I am designing the control panel for my boat which currently has nothing but a 7x11 hole.

I am thinking about putting a delay circuit in which can be turned off from inside the cabin (switch or key near the raw water seacock) This circuit would allow the the motor 2 or 3 minutes of run time before shutting it off. Adjustable timed relays are only $8 on Amazon.

I don't plan on having a key in the cockpit.

Is this a bad idea?

[FSMike]

Let me see if I've got this right -
You plan on expending additional money and additional time on installing something that can break and is not necessary?
Gee, I'll have to think about that.
Me, I just turn off the engine when I want it off.

[Lake-Effect]

Hot tub timer switch. Turn the knob, get up to 15 min of 'on' time.

But I hafta agree that it's possibly adding complexity in place of developing better habits .

[The Garbone]

The thought was to make it were someone without access could move the boat a little but not motor off and overheat the motor. The timer only being In the circuit if the switch is off.

My other thought is no key at all, just a run switch and start button in the cockpit.

[CarlF]

While Yanmar probably has something else in mind than the PO, the new B20 and C20 instrument panels that are shipped with Yanmar 4JH4s (and I think other sailboat size models) don't have keys.

[Horror Hotel]

I'm still unsure what it would do for you and why it's necessary? On a side note I just purchased a new 3ym30 on dec 20th, to install the panel I needed to cut the harness and I was kinda bummed that it was not tinned wire.

[Roy M]

Having had several experiences, on my boat and others, of saltwater in the key switch, I decided to eliminate the usual switch altogether. I use a standard Hella battery switch, with removable plastic key, in my control panel. For security, the start battery switch, inside the cabin, acts as the ultimate control against undesired use by another. I keep a bunch of the plastic keys hidden for when they die of natural causes (sunlight UV, mainly). The switch isn't totally waterproof, so, it's packed with grease.

[twinboat]

If you are suggesting running the engine with the seacock closed, even for a few minutes, you will probabily ruin your raw water impeller, before it overheated.

Sent from my VS840 4G using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[goboatingnow]

I've done a few conversions from key switch to buttons. I use 22mm ip68 industrial push buttons , wired so that two must be pushed together to start the engine. It's does need a set reset relay if you need the equivalent of a " ignition circuit"

Dave

[The Garbone]

Mulling over my options.

Thinking now is a breaker below on the master panel feeding a cockpit mounted panel. Will have a run/ start/ steaming light/ navigation lights and bilge blower switch in cockpit.

Turning on the run switch will activate the blower for a set period of time (have to do math for volume) before energizing the start button and coil.

The 2 start buttons is not a bad idea.

[irwin37]

If its a gas engine I can see having a delay before start to let the blower run, but what happens in an emergence and you forget to flip the switch down below or there is a four min delay (with diesel). After you run aground the little green light comes on to say you can start the engine now............?

John

[FSMike]

Originally Posted by The Garbone

---- Will have a run/ start/ steaming light/ navigation lights and bilge blower switch in cockpit.

Turning on the run switch will activate the blower for a set period of time ----

I would just use my watch but I'm obviously out of date lol.
My breaker panel in the main saloon controls everything except the ignition key. The fewer things I have up in the cockpit near the weather the better I like it. But, your boat, your way. I'll shut up now.

[Roy M]

Garbone, you might consider using a DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) rocker switch for your nav lights. The Blue Sea Contoura model is relatively waterproof, depending on your installation. In the center position, all lights are OFF. IN the position labeled "SAIL", one half of the poles provides power to the masthead tricolor, and the other half provides power to the compass light. In the "POWER" mode, one pole provides for deck-level running lights and the "steaming" light, the remaining pole also powers the compass light. Here's a pic of my panel, which uses a bunch of these switches to control foredeck light, the HID (High Intensity Discharge) spreader lights, one switch for Portside, one Starboard, Stern HID lamp, the forward deck light, and the last powers all the little red LEDs scattered about the boat, labeled "NIGHT LIGHTS".

[The Garbone]

Thanks for all the responses folks. I am starting to get to what I think will be the configuration I want on my control panel switches.

My main thought is to have all the operational stuff like Nav and steaming lights in the cockpit so the watch does not need to leave the helm.

Seasense makes a 5 switch "waterproof" panel that I think I can adapt for my purposes. I can have Run, Nav lights, steaming light, spreader/fordeck light and a start button on the panel as well as a accessory outlet and still leave me space for my Tach, volt meter, fuel and temp guage. I already have a hinged cover for the panel so it will be covered except for when in use.