Leaving a Little Penetrating Oil in an Engine

[a64pilot]

Why not bail on this before you bust something?
Remove the existing idiot light sensor, install a T in the hole and run both the idiot light and the oil pressure sensor off the T.

But if your determined, Hellosailors method of heating and cooling and the PB blaster has the best chance of success.

[Lojanica]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Why not bail on this before you bust something?
Remove the existing idiot light sensor, install a T in the hole and run both the idiot light and the oil pressure sensor off the T.

But if your determined, Hellosailors method of heating and cooling and the PB blaster has the best chance of success.

That alarm you hear is the emergency dive siren. Dive, dive, dive. Stop now. You're gonna break it.

Torch, cold, torch cold, Pblaster. All that is when you MUST remove a part. You have options now. One is to stop. Just sayin'......

[GregSteimel]

It just happens to have been PBlaster I put on it last Sunday. I'll drive back up to Mackinaw tomorrow and put the wrench to it and see.


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[bornyesterday]

Originally Posted by GregSteimel

The Allen wrench is holding firm. In fact I'm pulling so hard I'm afraid it'll break.

A short, sharp "jerk" with an extended, good quality wrench will often work when a steady pull fails.
Drill the right size hole in a short piece of bar/tool handle to make an extension if you have to.
Makes a big difference.

Easyouts are usually worse than useless but will work fine here if you can drill first without losing any swarf.

Good luck

edit: +1 on a64pilot's tee suggestion

[hellosailor]

"T" fittings on engine oil ports are a notoriously bad idea. Apparently the top of the "T" acts like a very nice torque amplifier and the weight of the two sensors/switches vibrating on the T causes a number of the fittings to fail. Not a good thing on an oil pressure line.

Maybe it is an urban myth but every engine pro that I've heard it from, has said the same thing. Don't use a T on oil lines.

[a64pilot]

Use a T with line connected to the T if your worried about the weight of the sensors, mount the sensors in a DG clamp on the engine enclosure. Or get a T made from steel, they exist.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Maybe it is an urban myth but every engine pro that I've heard it from, has said the same thing. Don't use a T on oil lines.

Baloney. Look up, that airliner up there has lots and lots of them.

[a64pilot]

He has a point, hang enough weight on a T and vibrate it, I guarantee it will fatigue and fail.
Really cool video on youtube of a Reno air racer who's prop just exploded, (wooden MT prop), what happened was an oil line elbow failed, oil pressure was lost, prop went to flat pitch and engine went to God knows what RPM, engine sized and prop exploded, pilot landed airplane safely. What happened was an aluminum elbow was used where a steel one should have been. I assume it was in the never ending chase to shave weight.

[a64pilot]

Here, I found it, make sure the sound is on and listen to the engine noise
http://youtu.be/DhyEnqudx8M

[model 10]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

He has a point, hang enough weight on a T and vibrate it, I guarantee it will fatigue and fail.
Really cool video on youtube of a Reno air racer who's prop just exploded, (wooden MT prop), what happened was an oil line elbow failed, oil pressure was lost, prop went to flat pitch and engine went to God knows what RPM, engine sized and prop exploded, pilot landed airplane safely. What happened was an aluminum elbow was used where a steel one should have been. I assume it was in the never ending chase to shave weight.

You can't use that example of improper parts and practices to prove an argument. Especially with a homebuilt!

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Yes, because when you break off an easy out in something, no drill bit on earth can drill it out.

Hi Roc bit, Solid carbide bit, Carbide tipped bit...
They are not exactly common hardware store items, nor easy to use properly, but they do exist in many places on this earth, including my shop.

[pbiJim]

My favorite all-around penetrating oil is Kroil. PB Blaster is one of the more aggressive ones & a good choice when you want rust to get dissolved. The acetone & ATF mix is a good choice for getting lube to seep down into a tight place, but it does not dissolve rust. You can choose your favorite poison based on the condition of the parts that you observe.

After the penetrant has sat for at least half an hour & better off, overnight, I would use one of those impact drivers that you hit with a hammer. They are about the best tool that I have used for loosening up the type of part that you described.

If that failed, my next try would be with one of the tapered hexagon easy-out tools that are specifically made for Allen heads. I wold turn it with the same hammer operated impact driver.

If that fails, I would not reach for a chisel. A rounded out Allen head will be a good center guide for a drill bit to get a pilot hole down the center of the plug. After that, you can follow with a tap. The old male threads will normally fall out as the tap enters, if you do it this way.

If you are worried about getting metal chips in the engine when drilling or tapping, then attach an air hose to a breather port & the chips will blow out of the engine rather than fall into it.

Been there, done that, got the greasy t-shirt.

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Remove the existing idiot light sensor, install a T in the hole and run both the idiot light and the oil pressure sensor off the T.

If the idiot light sensor is not frozen in place, this is probably your safest option.

You may wish to run a piece of 1/8" diameter tube off of the port, to a T that you mount nearby, & then run tubes from the T to the other two devices, which you would rigid mount nearby, if you are worried about vibrations.

[hugues1811]

Originally Posted by GregSteimel

I'm adding a oil pressure sensor to my Yanmar using an unused and plugged port next to the dummy light sensor. I've got a 5mm Allen wrench that fits the plug just fine but it won't budge.

If I remove the other sensor I can inject a little penetrating oil and let it sit a week to do its magic. But what if I don't get it all out?

It's oil, after all.


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don't bother, remove the free sensor and install a T, one sensor on each side

[Lojanica]

My mishap was removing the old unit with a proper wrench. The fitting broke just like we're talking about. No T just at the base of the sending unit. The EZ out salvaged the block. But the only wat to gain access for the drill and easy out was to pick the motor----no room. My point is if something is too difficult sometimes the better solution is to stop and reconsider. The flex line to a steel fitting to a remote unit secured off the block sounds like your best bet. A64 one smart cookie. Often times the plugs are loctite placed and they must be heated but they usually use the temperature tolerant loctite so to heat the block enough to remove is only sensible during a rebuild. The allen wrench plugs are because the engine block is made for more than one application and on other apps the tapped port is used and something else may very well be plugged. They are not always meant to take out later.