Oil Change Basic Question

[Idaho]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

........Please enlighten me.

If you are already using full synthetic and changing it every 100 hours, you are doing it better than my suggestion.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

I follow Yanmar's oil change intervals and just drain and refill. I do change the filter every time because it is easy and inexpensive.



I called Fram and asked them for their equivalent to the Yanmar 124085-35170 that my 3HM35F uses. They said a Fram PH5046. I found them at Tractor Supply. Practical Sailor ran an article on oil filters (https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...omparison-test) where they said, "Fram The end caps were made of a weak cardboard-like material. Often the end cap material was crumbing, and in several cases, was tearing loose from the ends of the media. These same failures have been reported in the automotive press. Bottom line: Fram filters are not recommended." Worried, I cut one open with a Dremel grinder. It looked nothing like the filter they described. Looking back at the article I see that they looked at 4 used Fram filters two of which were part number PH3378A, a part number that I could not locate, and the part number of another was unknown.

It's also about how much filter medium there is and what size particle it filters along with bypass and relief pressures and flow capacity. Maybe FRAM has improved over the years but for the price and considering how important the filter is get an OEM, OE or good quality like WIX, MANN & HUMMEL or NAPA Gold (which is made by WIX). But then I'm old, grumpy and set in my ways.

I was wondering about the rationale behind multiple oil changes and leaving behind cheap oil in the engine.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

I follow Yanmar's oil change intervals and just drain and refill. I do change the filter every time because it is easy and inexpensive.



I called Fram and asked them for their equivalent to the Yanmar 124085-35170 that my 3HM35F uses. They said a Fram PH5046. I found them at Tractor Supply. Practical Sailor ran an article on oil filters (https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...omparison-test) where they said, "Fram The end caps were made of a weak cardboard-like material. Often the end cap material was crumbing, and in several cases, was tearing loose from the ends of the media. These same failures have been reported in the automotive press. Bottom line: Fram filters are not recommended." Worried, I cut one open with a Dremel grinder. It looked nothing like the filter they described. Looking back at the article I see that they looked at 4 used Fram filters two of which were part number PH3378A, a part number that I could not locate, and the part number of another was unknown.

So it seems the PH3378A is one of Fram's Extra Guard which actually looks like a decent filter as is there Ultra and Synthetic filters. One new to me fact is Fram is niow making filters for Honda. So they must have improved at least some of their products. I cut open a FL1A which is a Ford filter. Paper ends, very little filter medium and really cheap looking check valve. So I suppose I should re-educate myself on Frams.

If comparing filters you should look at flow rates, particle size, amount of filter medium, quality or relief or bypass valves and check valves if any. The difference in price of good to cheap filters is not that much. Oil between regular and synthetic is pretty small these days also. Better use a quality filter and synthetic oil of the weight and grade that the manufacturer recommends than cut a few corners.

Thanks for your post. It made me look back, re-educate myself and check on the current product line that Fram has. If Honda is using them for their filters they might be doing at least that part of the line right. No idea which filters they actually are though.

[Richardw]

I have two yanmar 3jh3e three cylinder engines in my my lagoon 410. I bought a good quality manual pump from defender marine and it works great. I pump out as much as I can. The pump came with a few different sized adapter tubes. The engines have 4000 hours on them and run perfectly. I will also say that I installed all new fuel lines and racor filters with the visible bowls so I can see if the fuel looks iffy. I also always use diesel clean and every other fill up I put a quart of marvel oil into the fuel.

[Alan Mighty]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

If it's a vacuum style hand pump unit, warm the engine first. I use one often. The tips on getting the tube inside the right amount is the key also. You can hear the gurgle if it is in too far or too short.

I understand that your ambient temperature may be well below what I regard as usual.

I (and all the professional diesel engineers to whom I have turned for work that is beyond my skills) reckon that vacuum extraction of engine oil when the engine is cold (and most of the oil is therefore in the engine sump) is the way to go.