Outboard Driveshaft Scratches Cause Leak?

[knotnow]

Jack, you're only going to use the side of the tool WITHOUT the step. I place the deepest seal on the installer and put a light coating of locktite around the outside. Push that one in and repeat for the second seal. Remember back to back, lips facing out. Then lube the lips and you're done. Should't need to heat the base if the are straight. Good luck

[OrangeCrush]

Thanks. I have all the parts in front of me and unfortunately I'm still a bit confused. The installer tool fits the inside diameter of the seal nicely, but the widest part of the tool doesn't fit in the hole where the seals go. I could try to force it but it really doesn't want to get in there. That means I won't be able to push the first seal down deep enough unless I put them both on together. Also the smallest part of the tool doesn't fit as flushly as I was expecting in the smaller hole on the pump base, so I still stand the chance to put them in crooked as I press down. Does this seem right to you? What am I missing?

Thanks again.

[knotnow]

Quick question. Are these OEM (Mercury or Quicksilver) parts or aftermarket? It looks like the bore for the D/shaft is off set from the bore for the seals. If that's the case you would be beating your head against the wall. I trully wish you where closer, hell after what you've been thru we'd just get her done. This is not usually rocket science but if you're dealing with BS parts it's a no win.

[knotnow]

The OEM # for the housing is 46-42040T 5
and for the two seals is 26-41365 1

[OrangeCrush]

Knotnow,

Thanks for the reply again. I got a private message from another person that cleared things up a little. The stepped side is used for the first seal, since the step pushes it in to the right depth. The longer side is used for the second seal since it doesn't need to go in as deep. The person suggested I use a press or at least a C-clamp to hold it, but I'm not sure if this would help since I'll have to push the tool in by hand anyway. I'm anxious about screwing it up again of course, but I'll give it a go this afternoon and let you (all) know how it turns out. Thanks again.

[OrangeCrush]

Hey guys,

Well I guess my confidence was shot because I decided to bite the bullet and have a mechanic do the complete water pump assembly for me. I feel like a bit of a failure, but at least my motor will work well. I really appreciate all the help and one of these years I'll be able to do all this stuff on my own.

One quick question: I bought replacement seals for the propeller shaft when I thought things would go more smoothly, but I gave up switching them when I got bogged down with the water pump job. Should I have the shop do this job as well while they're working on it? Is this considered routine preventative maintenance, and worth the cost of another hour of labor?

Thanks again for everything!

Jack

[knotnow]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

One quick question: I bought replacement seals for the propeller shaft when I thought things would go more smoothly, but I gave up switching them when I got bogged down with the water pump job. Should I have the shop do this job as well while they're working on it? Is this considered routine preventative maintenance, and worth the cost of another hour of labor?

Thanks again for everything!

Jack

Yo Jack, Let them put the propshaft seals in if you want them changed but a good shop will PSI check the gear case included in the water pump base seal job. In order to replace the propshaft seal your going to need to remove the bearing carrier and that requires MORE tools.

[OrangeCrush]

Yeah but won't an outboard mechanic have that tool on hand? Is it worth doing as a precaution on an 8 year old motor or only if it's not holding pressure?

Do you think it will be about one extra hour of labor or more?

[knotnow]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

Yeah but won't an outboard mechanic have that tool on hand? Is it worth doing as a precaution on an 8 year old motor or only if it's not holding pressure?

Do you think it will be about one extra hour of labor or more?

That was my point. A dealer should have the tool and an extra hour should be more than enough if he can do it along with the original task. As far as should it be replaced on an 8 yr old OB. Not normal ops but it wouldn't hurt.

[OrangeCrush]

The saga continues....

I had an outboard shop assemble the lower unit for me. They only charged for one hour of labor, they pressure tested it and said it was in fine shape. They mentioned that it was in forward gear for my reference during assembly. I got the lower unit attached easily and I even painted it. Then I tried to change gears. It was stuck in forward and would not budge to reverse.

I took off the lower unit again and took a look at the shift shaft. It is stuck in place, and won't push down as it should, even with a good deal of pressure. Another mechanic in the yard looked at it and agreed that it could be tight with new seals, but not that tight.

Obviously I'm going to take it back to the shop to have them resolve this, but since they are closed today and tomorrow I am nervously wondering what could be the issue. I am supposed to shove off this Friday and I can't really afford any major delays. Also, I am hoping they fix it for free, since they said it was working fine when they returned it to me. Any insights on what could be the cause of an immovable shift shaft? This could help me talk to the guys and avoid further charges and delays, as well as hopefully settle my anxiety about this.

Any thoughts?? Thanks, yet again.