Outboard Storage onboard

[BigAl.NZ]

Hi,
Thinking of getting a second outboard for our tender - 15HP Yamaha to use when the 2HP just doesn't cut it.

I am thinking of leaving the 15HP chained to the safety rails on the transom when not in use.

We do mainly weekend sailing - but the 15HP will get some use over summer for when we put divers in the 3.2m inflatable and also towing the kids.

Q: How do people who keep outboards of this size onboard flush them - if at all? (I could do it when back at the dock)

Q: Even when flushed if its left chained to the transom it will be exposed to the salt air - probably not good for it.

What do other people in similar situations do?

Thanks

[dougweibel]

The easy way to flush is this:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...xoC_B0QAvD_BwE

The outboard's manual usually describes how to wash the exterior with the cover removed. Between a flush and an occasional external wash you will be far ahead of the care most outboards receive. You could also fog the engine if you don't plan to be using it for a while. That is a bit of work but will help protect the manifolds, cylinders, etc. from corrosion.

[tkeithlu]

The other long storage (over two months, perhaps) is draining the fuel. If it has a carborator, this is particularly important, because the fuel loses its volatility and won't burn.

But then, your question. How much does this engine weigh? Can you wrestle it onto the tender by hand, or do you need a hoist with which to lower it onto the boat? I think this is the central issue in your plans.

The 15HP Tohatsu outboard weighs 95 pounds dry. That could be a bear to get on and off while standing on the rim of the fantail, and dropping it would cost you $1,600.

You can minimize the exposure question by storing it upright and tying a cover over it.

Doug's right on being ahead - most outboards take one hell of a lot of abuse. Flushing will be most appreciated by the cooling system. The manual should tell you how; engines used to need flush muffs when being flushed, but more recently some have a direct hose connection to the cooling system.

[fgd3]

Outboards with a direct hose connection are flushed with the engine not running. If you are not at the dock you can flush the engine from your boat's pressure water system if you have a big enough water tank. That could be done with the engine secured on the stern rail.

[dougweibel]

I forgot about draining the fuel. I leave my outboard for 2-4+ months frequently and don't bother draining the fuel tank but I do drain the carburetor. Yes, the gas in the tank might not be the best but I've never had a problem that way. On the other hand if you leave fuel in the carburetor bad things will happen - small passages get blocked with varnish as the fuel evaporates, etc. Fortunately for the outboards I have owned draining the carb is a quick and easy job.

I also try to run high-octane ethanol-free fuel whenever possible, like the stuff they market as Rec-90 in Florida. You get a lot less problems from fuel age with that stuff.

[Jammer]

The 4-stroke Yamahas have a garden hose fitting for flushing. Assuming that's what you have since AU/NZ have phased out the 2-strokes. It doesn't take much water flow to do. I suppose you could rig up a garden sprayer with the proper fitting if you don't have fresh water under pressure on your boat.

[BigAl.NZ]

Thanks guys. We have a davit/winch setup above the push pit for hoisting the outboard so that shouldn't be an issue.

Covering the outboard sounds like good for storage protection and I have been told that the local chandlery have a collapsible bucket that can be used for flushing (would probably use less water than the hose fitting but that is an option too)

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by Jammer

The 4-stroke Yamahas have a garden hose fitting for flushing. Assuming that's what you have since AU/NZ have phased out the 2-strokes. It doesn't take much water flow to do. I suppose you could rig up a garden sprayer with the proper fitting if you don't have fresh water under pressure on your boat.

15HP two strokes still being sold in NZ.

[Dreamcatcher34]

We acquired a new 6hp Yam 4 stroke earlier this year and seems great compared to previous 3.3 mercury but at a weight price. While quite happy to bring the merc home each winter for ritual carb cleaning and run through in the wheelie bin of freshwater I’ve decided to let the Yam stay on board. I did wonder if getting a full length cover was advisable compared to a rank cover but my impression is a Yam is far more reliable staring wise than a 2 stroke plus it has the option of a spare tank feed . Just getting used to all the extra power but seems to go well on a quicksilver rib so far . Might invest in a hard bottom one next year though.

[thomm225]

The main engine for my boat is an outboard which I installed in 2012. ( 5hp 4 strok Mercury 25" shaft. 57 lbs.)

It is on a bracket on the stern, but I dock the boat bow in so there's really no good way to flush the engine with fresh water that's convenient.

So I have flushed this engine maybe 10X since 2012.

I do run it a lot though and usually start it every two weeks all Winter using the left over gas from the previous sailing season which I treat with Stabil.

I flush the engine when I do the yearly oil change or when I replace the impeller

[HankOnthewater]

I might not display best behaviour when I say never flush the engine, or drain the carburettor, and I do not use the outboard that often. And ...... as expected, a few months ago, could not turn the engine over with starter cord. All came had to come apart, and the salt and crusty bits removed from the shaft.
Hmm, have to start flushing after use, or use the engine more regularly. engine has fabric cover and lived on the stern rail all its (10 years) life. Engine still look like new, it goes well. So life on the railing does not hurt, just need to flush now and then.

Engine is 2-stoke Yamaha enduro 15 HP. Yes I wish they would come with a flush connection, as flushing with ears on the railing is nigh impossible

[Chotu]

Here’s how I store mine. (A little joke).

I was actually working on it and needed it supported upright.

[valhalla360]

I would just switch over to using the 15hp motor. You can always throttle back to 2hp speeds but regular use will make for a more reliable motor and largely avoid the issue of draining the carb (I'm assuming you live aboard and use the dingy regularly). With 4 stroke motors, idling isn't nearly as bad as the old style 2 strokes and as long as every couple weeks, you can open her up and burn out the soot, it should be fine.

As far as flushing, we were outboard powered for the mother ship and about once every week or two when at dock, we would slip the muffs on and run her for 10-15min. The exterior never showed corrosion.