Perkins 4 108: “Emergency” Starting Without Ignition/Panel

[HardTAC]

Originally Posted by HardTAC

We’re stuck in a (somewhat) remote location and it’s clear my ignition circuit is shot. Or maybe it’s wiring leading to it. Anyway, no response to turning the key. And, I can’t find any voltage getting to the back wires of the ignition. Engine instrument panel unresponsive. And yet, my batteries are fine, and all other DC systems are working fine.

I’m 3-4 days away (sailing) to get back home. There, I can work with my mechanic to fix/upgrade things. In the meantime, I just need to be able to start my Perkins to enter/exit harbors (and transit the Cape Cod Canal) along the way.

Does anyone know how (with detailed instructions) I could apply 12v to the starter motor to fire the old girl up? I’m handy, but don’t have much experience around around engines.

Thanks for any immediate ideas!

My wife thanks you too!!

Todd

Thank you so much for all the quick replies! I'm digging into the engine compartment now and will let you know what worked (how's that for optimism) and how we made out.

Cheers,

Todd

[captlloyd]

Originally Posted by parkstone bay

If you are playing with jump leads, shorting terminals with screwdrivers etc., for Heaven's sake, please keep hands, clothing (especially neckties) , jewelry (including watch strap), well clear of rotating bits like the starter motor and the flywheel.

These rotating bits that you mention are not exposed and you stand little chance of getting wrapped up in them.

[stormalong]

Jump starting an engine with a screwdriver is not something a novice should do. Shorting the positive to ground by accident would result in a melted screwdriver and possible fire. That method is for if the solenoid is bad and it is a Bendix spring starter - one where the solenoid does not pull in the starter gear.

[masonc]

Forget the whole "screwdriver across the terminals" thing. That's only necessary when the solenoid no longer works. His starter is fine, probably his whole panels is fine, he just doesn't have power to the panel. The right thing to do is find the cause of the problem, and chances are it's corrosion the connector. If he troubleshoots and finds the problem, it's over and he is back to normal.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

The starter solenoid has the small terminal for energizing the solenoid, plus the big terminal with the red wire from the battery. Those are the terminals you need to jump across, not the two big ones.

On all my engines, I install a permanent jumper wire with a push button switch in the middle, which is mounted on the outside of the engine compartment. If the ignition circuit fails, pushing the button is a lot faster and safer than finding a screwdriver or wire and opening up the engine compartment.

I've done this preemptive strike too, Don. Mine is inside the engine box, but accessible through the rubbish bin door. Also useful when needing to turn the engine over setting valves or starting up after an oil change, checking for leaks and so on. IMO, a very useful item, and quite easy to organize. Recommended for all!

Jim

[waterman46]

Originally Posted by michaelratinter

I use a quarter (US 25 cent coin) to jump the large post on the starter solenoid to the smaller post on the starter solenoid. The sparks scare the crap out of me but it works.

+1 on finding the stop solenoid before starting the engine.

Risky business this. The sparks and your fear are trying to tell you something. Hope you do this with asbestos glove on your finger.

Seriously, if you already have access to back of ignition switch, just jump any source of +12V that you may have near your ignition switch, over to the switch terminals. Don't mess with a screwdriver or any other object directly on the starter motor unless you have a need to start that engine right NOW.

My old Perkins fuel injection pump uses a manual lever connected to a pull handle in the cockpit, which is used to stop the fuel flow, in order to stop the engine. If that is the case with yours, then it's good to permanently install a small pull rod with a finger sized loop on the end of it (use coat hanger if you don't have SS) on that same lever down on the pump itself, so you can cut the fuel and stop the engine right there without having to go back to cockpit.

[HardTAC]

Originally Posted by HardTAC

We’re stuck in a (somewhat) remote location and it’s clear my ignition circuit is shot. Or maybe it’s wiring leading to it. Anyway, no response to turning the key. And, I can’t find any voltage getting to the back wires of the ignition. Engine instrument panel unresponsive. And yet, my batteries are fine, and all other DC systems are working fine.

I’m 3-4 days away (sailing) to get back home. There, I can work with my mechanic to fix/upgrade things. In the meantime, I just need to be able to start my Perkins to enter/exit harbors (and transit the Cape Cod Canal) along the way.

Does anyone know how (with detailed instructions) I could apply 12v to the starter motor to fire the old girl up? I’m handy, but don’t have much experience around around engines.

Thanks for any immediate ideas!

My wife thanks you too!!

Todd

Temporary fix is this: I ran a wire from the starter battery to the ignition. Boat fires right up with the turn of the key and energizes the instrument panel as well.

I believe the problem is a bad wire coming off the solenoid (accessory terminal) to the panel. It’s a real pain to get at but will replace when back to home dock.

I really appreciated all the replies (especially talk of sparks, fear, and popcorn)!

-Todd

[Dougtiff]

As per donradcliffe instructions, i have a permanently wired push button installed, comes in handy when i'm alone, and need to turn the engine over.

[Tampabayfireman]

Our boat came with a pre wired starter button located next to the engine, on the odd chance you need to bleed the injectors you can do it with one hand while using wrench to bleed with the other. Have used it before and works great.