Perkins 4108 Engine Sailboat Stuck

[SailnParadise]

I've followed the fuel line from the tank to the injectors. The vent at the top of the pump is the hardest since the anti-stall nut is below the vent nut and needs to be held in place while opening so it doesn't move. Some instructions I found also had me bleed the atomizers before the injectors. I am picking up some WD40 now and will update once I redo bleed and crack 1 injector while cranking. A Tow would be 500-600 and not doing that. I'd rather wait on wind an sail just outside of the nearest harbor about 50nm away. I'll get seatow policy once I get in.

[Kettlewell]

Through many failed bleed attempts I found the single most important thing I did after making sure I was getting no bubbles at the injector pump was to use more throttle when cranking and to open 2 injector nuts. I use full throttle when cranking. TAD recommends at least 50% throttle. Make sure you aren't in gear!

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by SailnParadise

Got a new to me sailboat that broke loose during the storm and previous owner gave up on it and just gave me the coordinates. Have ot get it moved somewhere safe. Mainsail is shredded but headsail is usable and so is the mizzen. But I need to get into a harbor somewhere so need my the engine desperately before another storm comes or some strong winds out of the west. PO said it ran for his last trip from Tampa to the Keys. Stated that he kept clogging the filter. I checked the Rancor FG500 and it is full of black growth. There is also a cracked injector flange. I bled the lines to and from the fuel pump and cracked each injector while turning the engine. There is also an onboard fuel transfer pump that I used to assist in bleeding the fuel lines. But I still cannot get it to start. The PO said to use the ether onboard during this process but the Manual says it has glow plugs and the can specifically states NOT to use it if the engine has glow plugs. So I did not follow that direction. The engine looks good, no corrosion. Turns over strong enough. Just cannot get it to start. Any help would be appreciated. For now I have bypassed the fuel tank and am using a 5 gallon can of fresh diesel with the fuel line and return going into it. I have a new set of Rancor FG500 filters arriving in 2 days but need to move before then. Using a generator, 75amp charger with engine start and new battery so batteries arent the issue.

They
I have a 4108 and it has an electric ignition in the air intake check the wires no glow plug
even at that if you cranck it without, it will start
need any parts ?
three weeks ago after an expensive partial overhaul my engine "ranaway" from me after hearing some clicking noises managed to ram it in reverse and stop i ' end of the line for this motor
Pumped at least 15 liters of oil and fuel from the block

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by Fore and Aft

SailnParadise ether is what I am talking about, I am not brand loyal and just use what is the cheapest starter fluid on the shelf. Once on that Cat diesel in desperation I used brake cleaner fluid to get the SOB to fire up. We had that motor perfectly primed, but nothing was happening. What's strange is after a warm up period we never had any drama starting until the next filter change.
Cheers

Carb cleaner and even WD40 will work too. Carb cleaner and ether are too explosive and can damage the engine. WD40 is mostly kerosene, which is like a more refined diesel fuel so it won't cause damage. If it runs on WD you know it's got compression and air, the only thing left is fuel supply.

[skipperpete]

There’s a bit of incorrect information getting into this really good and important thread, loosening the injector lines and operating the manual priming pump will not allow fuel or air to be purged from the system (except on some early Caterpillar engines), the engine needs to be cranked to achieve this. There is only a small arc of useful camshaft lobe where the manual lift pump can be operated, on most of the cam the lever will have moved the pump diaphragm to a point where the manual priming lever is inoperable so turn the engine over with a wrench till there’s a positive response from the manual priming lever. Strenuously avoid using the idle buffer screw to bleed the engine unless you know how to reassemble it after the tiny shuttle and spring pop out with the air and fuel. Never overtighten the actual dedicated bleed screws, they will break. Always check that the fuel cutoff/shutdown lever does indeed totally stop the fuel at the open injector pipes while dead cranking and make darn sure the seacock is turned off to avoid flooding the exhaust.
4-108’s are not known for uncontrolled overspeeds due to the nature of the injector pump but occasionally will escape and reached flight revs but, as with any runaway, the time available to react is so small that any thought of removing the aircleaner and blocking the intake is not reasonable..... you need to anticipate the overspeed and be completely prepared in advance.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I have some 4108 parts too, alternators and a starter motor. The old beast ran away and is now being turned into a Toyota bumper or something.

Bleeding is a pain if you put a squeeze bulb ( like on an outboard ) in the line coming from your fuel jug you can use that to pump the fuel much easier than the lift pump lever.

One other trick, if all else fails and you think the compression may be weak you can put 2 batteries in series for the starter. It will spin faster but only do it in a short shot. They can take a short blast of 24 volts. If you do that be sure the starter is the only thing in that circuit.

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by Turtle Blues

Glow plug on engine

Is this a 4108 perkins?
on my engine there is only one ingnition in the air intake

[Kettlewell]

the time available to react is so small that any thought of removing the aircleaner and blocking the intake is not reasonable.....

Don't know what his intake is like on the 4.108 but on my 4.236 there is no need to remove anything. Just plug the inlet hole with something, and on my boat it is right in front of my face when I open the engine compartment.

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by Fore and Aft

Sailnparadise did you try some easy start fluid. I have worked on a worn Cat 3208 diesel and Perkins 4108 and every time after a filter change they needed a squirt of easy start to get going. Then it's all good until the next filter change and the engine wants to test my patience again.
Cheers

I was told NEVER to use easy start on a diesel engines , is seams to wash out the oil layer on the cylinder walls

[SailnParadise]

Got it running!! Cracked 2 injectors and gave it some starter fluid. But now the throttle wont engage in gear, only neutral. It will go into forward and reverse but when I give it throttle nothing happens. No increase in RPM. I have found a frayed cable coming from the pedestal. I have included photos. But the throttle linkage and transmission linkage seem to work fine.




Another question. I hooked up the electric fuel transfer pump to help with bleeding. Can I leave it inline? Does it need to be on?

[SailnParadise]

Here are the photos of the broken linkage

https://ibb.co/7jg7WPj
https://ibb.co/Dt6cgQ7
https://ibb.co/6Xq23nY

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by SailnParadise

Got a new to me sailboat that broke loose during the storm and previous owner gave up on it and just gave me the coordinates. Have ot get it moved somewhere safe. Mainsail is shredded but headsail is usable and so is the mizzen. But I need to get into a harbor somewhere so need my the engine desperately before another storm comes or some strong winds out of the west. PO said it ran for his last trip from Tampa to the Keys. Stated that he kept clogging the filter. I checked the Rancor FG500 and it is full of black growth. There is also a cracked injector flange. I bled the lines to and from the fuel pump and cracked each injector while turning the engine. There is also an onboard fuel transfer pump that I used to assist in bleeding the fuel lines. But I still cannot get it to start. The PO said to use the ether onboard during this process but the Manual says it has glow plugs and the can specifically states NOT to use it if the engine has glow plugs. So I did not follow that direction. The engine looks good, no corrosion. Turns over strong enough. Just cannot get it to start. Any help would be appreciated. For now I have bypassed the fuel tank and am using a 5 gallon can of fresh diesel with the fuel line and return going into it. I have a new set of Rancor FG500 filters arriving in 2 days but need to move before then. Using a generator, 75amp charger with engine start and new battery so batteries arent the issue.

There is a hand lift pump at the fuel filterside of the enigine it operates from inside the block incase there is NOT much movement then you have to rotate the engine afull turn since the cam inside blocks the pump lever

[SailnParadise]

PROBLEM SOLVED. Created new thread for Throttle Issue.

Link to new thread specifically about the throttle issues:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3822444

[Cheechako]

The glow plug is not your problem... especially in Florida! Dont waste your time. I never once used the glow plug on my 4-108 even in Seattle Washington winter.
With little to go on I would say you have fuel issues. Clean filters (there's one on the engine too!) Clean fuel. No air leaks.
-The hand lift pump is rather difficult. I would install an outboard fuel "squeeze bulb" between the tank and the first fuel filter (your racor I imagine?) Or better... install an electric fuel pump from NAPA etc. in the same position. This solves many fuel related problems like after you clean your fuel filter etc. OH I SEE YOU DID IT!

-You can leave the pump in line and run it in most cases. I made a bypass for mine though.

[swisel]

Late to the party but for posterity all the same.
Bleeding.pdf

Bleeding 2.pdf

Bleeding Thermostart.pdf