Perkins Perama

[Outdoortony]

Hi everyone
I have just viewed a Colvic Countess that has a Perkins Perama (M30 I think) the engine and battery had been standing for 3 years but it started. The oil was clean on the dipstick and in side the water cap was clear I am concerned about the corrosion and oxidation in the pictures. Has anyone had and experience with this engine in the condition?
Thanks in advance

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Tony.

[Outdoortony]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Tony.

Thank you very much Sir

[GordMay]

Perkins Perama M25/M30 Workshop Manual
➥ http://www.marinesurveyorontario.com...riesm25m30.pdf


FWIW: We’re in the wrong section of the CF. This is for discussing problems with the forum.
We should be in the “Engines and Propulsion Systems” section.
➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/

[Cowpoos]

Parts are plentiful for these, the base engine is one of the most produced engines of the eighties and early nineties. Shibaura s753, lots of parts available new from parts4engines.com. With the corrosion, clean it up, etch prime and paint it again, it will be fine.

[DougR]

Agree with Cowpoos, most of the corrosion can be cleaned up with little problem, and if the circulation pump on the front of the engine is too far gone they are readily available from Perkins, Volvo or Parts4engines in the UK.

Couple of other things you might want to explore......
- the new exhaust elbow has been installed 90 degrees out.... it’s lying on its side. This was done to allow a hose to run from the heat exchanger boot to a vacuum valve and then back into the elbow. This can expose the engine to potential seawater backflow from the exhaust. I would suggest turning the elbow back to its correct position so the exhaust drops away from the engine and the water has less chance of backing into the exhaust. Put your vacuum valve connection between the seawater pump and the heat exchanger.
- The rubber boot on the CV joint is torn and throwing grease all over the hull...check the condition of the CV joint.
- the flex mounts are looking pretty sad....starboard rear mount has the rubber cover twisted relative to the base, and the rubber is probably torn.....expect to have to replace them
- the gear box looks shiny and new....nice

[Baronkrak]

Originally Posted by DougR

...
Put your vacuum valve connection between the seawater pump and the heat exchanger.
...

Debatable.

[DougR]

Originally Posted by Baronkrak

Debatable.

Sure, everything is debatable...., but the first photoI have posted shows the engine with the exhaust elbow in the factory installed position. The elbow is pointing down so that the injected water and exhaust flow away from the exhaust manifold with little chance of water backing into the engine. In the photo that the PO shows, the exhaust elbow has been laid on its side so that the flow is exiting almost horizontal, with significant potential for water reversion back into the manifold. I have seen reversion problems with these engines even with the elbow installed correctly.

The second photo I have posted is taken from the factory installation manual, showing the vacuum valve installed between the seawater pump and the rubber boot on the front of the heat exchanger. This functions exactly the same as if the vacuum valve was at the rear of the HE, except for about a pint more water draining into the exhaust system on shutdown.

So the question is whether you prefer to risk engine damage from water reversion in the exhaust, or you accept an extra pint of water draining into the waterlift muffler.

[Outdoortony]

Awesome advice thank you for taking the time to reply to me and I can see the error with the exhaust and will definitely rectify this , can quite make out the vacuum pump but will continue to research this so I understand

[Emmalina]

Should clean up no problem and a lick of paint good as new but think you might have a small leak somewhere !

[deblen]

I got tired of cleaning corrosion out of the alum. VR valve supplied by Volvo.
I replaced it with a brass home plumbing VR valve.
Still working after 10 yrs salt water use. YMMV
https://www.watts.com/products/plumb...-relief-valves

[Outdoortony]

Originally Posted by Emmalina

Should clean up no problem and a lick of paint good as new but think you might have a small leak somewhere !

😂😂 yea my friend thought that but I can see it myself

[kenbo]

Originally Posted by deblen

I got tired of cleaning corrosion out of the alum. VR valve supplied by Volvo.
I replaced it with a brass home plumbing VR valve.
Still working after 10 yrs salt water use. YMMV
https://www.watts.com/products/plumb...-relief-valves

Not denying that the VR valve you used is working in your application but that valve is not designed to prevent siphoning backflow. Watts specifically states that in their spec sheet. My guess is the cracking vacuum is too high to reliably prevent back siphoning.

[Sailormantx]

I have the same engine, it just needs a little clean up. Do pull the hoses off the water pump and check the hose connection. The water pump is aluminum and I have had the hose attachment corrode away to nothing under the hose. There are no zincs on this motor.

[Outdoortony]

Ah thanks for the heads up about no Zinks I’ll stipe out the hoses