Pull to kill handle needs replacing

[hd002e]

Mine is almost a coat hanger too

I will go the electric route and will want an energize to stop model. I saw there are two kinds:

1. Taps into the fuel line and acts as a valve to shut off the fuel supply
2. Attaches to the fuel shut off lever on the engine

I would be more interested in the second option if it is going to allow me to reach in the engine bay and shut off the motor manually in an emergency.

Originally Posted by capt jgw

Or search eBay "diesel engine stop cable". Many choices, most around $20. This is what you're engine likely came with originally. Much cheaper and easier than installing an electric shut off solenoid. My first diesel boat had a piece of coat hanger wire rigged to make a pull stop. I replaced it with a proper cable. Note if you put the pull end out in the cockpit it will eventually corrode and freeze up. No doubt that's why mine had the coat hanger. I put the pull end just inside the cabin where it was out of the weather.

If you want to go electric, there are two basic types. "Energize to run", the solenoid is wired to your key switch. When you turn the key off the engine stops just like in a car. Downside is if there's an electrical problem the engine won't run. "Energize to stop", you push a button to stop the engine. Upside is if there's an electrical problem the engine will continue to run and get you home. You can then go into the engine space and pull the stop lever manually if that happens.

[hd002e]

Sorry for the confusion, I hve a handle not a switch. I am definitely interested in going for the solenoid option.

Originally Posted by rls8r

hg002e -

Can I ask for just a bit more information? Since diesel engines don't have spark plugs they are generally stopped by stopping the flow of fuel to the injectors. The fuel is generally cut off at the high pressure pump. The cutoff mechanism can be either "mechanical" (by use of a cable to swing a lever) or "electrical" (by use of a solenoid that does the work that would otherwise be done by the cable).

In your initial post you mention both "switch" and "cable." Mentioning "switch" makes me think that you have a solenoid on your engine that cuts off the fuel supply. However, mentioning "cable" and suggesting a dyneema line makes me think that perhaps the cutoff is mechanical.

Which is it?

If it's a solenoid mechanism - then why not simply move the switch from the lazarette to the cockpit? Easy peasy! If it's a cable system, then any confined cable would work (a bicycle cable would work - but may rust over time). There are lots of cables out there (like the ones that you may use for the throttle and gear shift). Fireboy has a nice cockpit cable adapter to make the cockpit end look nice. You just need to make sure that the engine end of the cable can take the fitting needed to attach it to the engine. If it is mechanical then I'd steer you away from considering the dyneema line. Unless the return spring is very strong you'll need to push the cable to re-open the fuel supply that will allow the engine to restart the next time you want to use it. While dyneema has great tensile strength it is notoriously poor for compressive strength. If you currently have a mechanical cable system and you want to modify the way you stop your engine to be solenoid-actuated - well, that's another ball of wax entirely.

[hd002e]

Oh this is quite interesting! I know the boat was re-powered with the westerbeke universal and they used the ignition switch that was original to the boat i stead of a westerbeke universal specific model. I will have to investigate if the optional solenoid was installed. The PO said to use the lazarette pull handle.

Originally Posted by Mickeyrouse

Our engine (Isuzu) has both a switch to turn off the fuel lift pump and a cable to pull the fuel flow to the injector pump. It is a Morse, cockpit mounted, and has yet to show any signs of corrosion. I oil it every five years or so. It gets little use, but is nice to have as an emergency kill device.
I’m not familiar with the Universal, but since it is marketed by Westerbeke as is ours it likely has a solenoid kill device as well. If so, the switch to kill is generally wired with the start switch. Keying the starter also keys the lift pump, and simultaneously engages the fuel solenoid, otherwise the engine won’t run. It’s just possible the fuel switch is located in the lazarette because it was intended to only be used in an emergency. Check to see if the engine can be killed by turning the key off. Kinda sounds like engine start-stop procedure didn’t get relayed by the previous owner via broker or something.

[hd002e]

Very useful information, thank you!

Originally Posted by GordMay

Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid: EMERGENCY SHUT-DOWN [Westerbeke, Perkins, etc]

The Engine Stop [momentary] push button is fed from the +12VDC positive bus [in engine control panel].

The fuel solenoid is normally open [un-energised], with piston extended, allowing fuel flow.
When momentary contact engine shut-down button is pressed [closed], solenoid is energised, valve closes [piston retracted], shutting off fuel flow.

If pressing engine stop button fails to stop engine, your fuel solenoid may be ‘frozen’ open, or the stop circuit may be faulty.

1. Check the fuel solenoid. If the fuel valve rack piston is extended, the solenoid is open, and providing fuel.

2. Jumper the solenoid terminal [with (grey /w yellow stripe?) wire coming from stop button] to ground.
The piston should retract, closing off fuel. If not, tap solenoid lightly, to free ‘frozen’ piston, allowing it to close.

[hd002e]

Hahahah I wish! Those were the days.

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Interjecting levity.
You're the captain, you don't fool around.
You order the mate to ring up "finished with engines" on the telegraph.
The engineer will do what is necessary.

[hd002e]

Looks good, if I can’t go the solenoid route, I will move mine out to the cockpit as well.

Originally Posted by Khaos13

My Cape Dory had the kill handle mounted in the lazzarette also. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the aft corner of the cockpit next to the CD instrument panel where it was unlikely to snag a line. The existing cable was long enough so the only modification was drilling the hole, removing the cable mounting hardware and reinstalling it in the new location.

[hd002e]

OK, so I did some investigating on the engine and there is simply a cable that attaches to the kill lever (for lack of a better word), I do not believe my engine has the optional solenoid that is connected to the ignition switch. What do you fine folks think?

[massnspace]

I just repaired the pull handle kill switch on my Universal M-40. Looks exactly like your pic….

Not 100% on topic, but if this helps, you or anyone else….

My pull handle was getting EXTREMELY hard to pull. Almost had to brace your knee against the panel to get the leverage to pull it out.

Went to my local marine store and the they wanted $130 for a new cable/handle. Went back to the boat, disconnected both ends, dripped a bunch of oil down the openings…..both ends…fed cable back in, worked back and forth, repeat. Cable now slides easily, no money spent (oil, I guess, 5 cents).

Anyway, the cable system works. I would guess 99.999 per cent of the time, which I feel good about. Solenoids/switches/wires work, but have many more points of potential failure…..

[rls8r]

Yep, that's it. No solenoid, though. The lever next to it should be the throttle. Often there's a pretty heavy spring leading forward from the fuel shut-ff lever and attached in some way to the block that will re-open the fuel when you release the cable (if the cable is free to travel and well-oiled).

Just re-route the cable to wherever you want it to come into the cockpit. You may need to get a new cable if the length to the cockpit is different than the length to the lazarette. You don't want the cable to be too long - and often it helps to attach the cable at places along its length like you would an electrical cable/wire. There are several fittings (like the one that I mentioned in a previous post) and knobs that you can use to make it look nice in the cockpit and not snag a line (e.g., use a rounded knob rather than a "T" handle like this one).

You'll have to look at a manual to see about installing a solenoid if that's what you want to do - but I wouldn't (and haven't). The cable works just fine by itself and there's less to go wrong.

[Traumerei]

Just google “diesel engine shutoff handle”, multiple options pop-up.

https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC32...CABEgJeufD_BwE

[Boatwright]

Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has an excellent assortment of push-pull cables in a variety of types, handle styles, low-friction inner liners, etc..

Good stuff, good service, reasonable prices.

Nice thing about a cable instead of a solenoid is one less electrical gizmo to cause trouble, as electrical gizmos in boats tend to do.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/

[nofacey]

I prefer the pull cable rigged to a point easily accessible to the helm….a solenoid introduces more unnecessary complexity = more points of failure. Keep it simple….

[Jimmyhenry]

Any manual system is safer than electronic. In a fire or electrical failure the electronic system may fail.

[sinnerman]

You will need to determine the cable length required from the cockpit/lazarette location to the engine.

(You will most likely find one long enough at a tractor dealer....)

Buy one at least this minimum length. You then cut the cable to length as required. (See the instructions in one of the tabs for the Catalina Direct cable below.)

Tie a string to the old cable at the engine, then disconnect the cable and pull it to the lazarette. The string can then be tied to the new cable to guide it along the correct return path to the engine.

I would NOT recommend installing an electrical solenoid in place of the cable (if this is at all possible) as it is just another thing to troubleshoot when you have engine start problems.

Catalina direct sells shutoff cables...
Example:https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-...50-c-30-c-390/

They sell 15 and 20 feet lengths. You cut to fit.

The "marine" grade cables are more expensive as they are salt water corrosion resistant (stainless) where the tractor cables are not

my two cents

cheers

[sinnerman]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

You will need to determine the cable length required from the cockpit/lazarette location to the engine.

(You will most likely find one long enough at a tractor dealer....)

Buy one at least this minimum length. You then cut the cable to length as required. (See the instructions in one of the tabs for the Catalina Direct cable below.)

Tie a string to the old cable at the engine, then disconnect the cable and pull it to the lazarette. The string can then be tied to the new cable to guide it along the correct return path to the engine.

I would NOT recommend installing an electrical solenoid in place of the cable (if this is at all possible) as it is just another thing to troubleshoot when you have engine start problems.

Catalina direct sells shutoff cables...
Example:https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-...50-c-30-c-390/

They sell 15 and 20 feet lengths. You cut to fit.

The "marine" grade cables are more expensive as they are salt water corrosion resistant (stainless) where the tractor cables are not

my two cents

cheers

Correction:


(You will most likely NOT find one long enough at a tractor dealer....)

cheers