Pulling engine to paint, what else should we do?

[Ryban]

Since we'll be in the boatyard for a little while while we wait for the bottom to dry, we're considering taking the opportunity to pull the engine out since we want to repaint the engine bay and also replace our engine mounts (as well as a few other projects).

We'll also take this opportunity to really clean up the engine and give it some new paint, but I'm wondering what other maintenace we should consider doing while we have the convenience of having the engine out of the boat?

Also, other than alignment, what things should we watch out for when re-installing the engine and its first start after we splash? Obviously the fuel system will need to be bled and primed.

Engine is a Vetus M4.14.

[jkishel]

Oil pan gasket, old hoses that are easier to replace with the engine pulled, fix any leaks, good chance to inspect mixing elbow, change raw water impeller or rebuild/replace water pump">raw water pump if easier to do with engine pulled.

[Greatest Lakes]

Consider adding a remote oil drain line to the drain plug location. Just a fitting that fits where the plug was with a flexible line that reaches someplace convenient for oil changes. If you use a stainless braided hose, you can pull a substantial vacuum.

[flightlead404]

Don't paint rubber hoses. I might look nice for a few weeks, but the paint flakes off and it also has the potential to hide issues. Don't paint over clamps, don't paint screws or fasteners you might need to remove. Especially socket heads.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I would replace seals and gaskets to keep it oil tight. While you're at it I would change the seals on the transmission too.

[skipperpete]

Check the drive plate and the spline on the gearbox input shaft. Also, if there’s any oil in the flywheel housing you might want to find out if it came from the crankshaft rear main seal or the gearbox seal. Basically what NorthCoastJoe prescribed.

[Don C L]

I always like seeing a bright white coat of bilge-kote under an engine; it makes spotting new leaks easier. And looks cool. This is on other people’s boats; I don’t have an inboard.

[donradcliffe]

As long as the engine is out, consider new hoses and improving sound insulation.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Greatest Lakes

Consider adding a remote oil drain line to the drain plug location. Just a fitting that fits where the plug was with a flexible line that reaches someplace convenient for oil changes. If you use a stainless braided hose, you can pull a substantial vacuum.

^ This in spades.
Probably one of the best things you can do.

[Ryban]

These are all great ideas. Our engine actually has a built-in hand-pump for extracting oil, though I don't know how low in the sump it goes.

After chatting with the yard manager, and finding out we're being charged for our bowsprit length in the yard (and not just the hull length), I think we're going to save the engine lift for when we're back in the water.

What paints do people like for under their engines? I've worked with BilgeKote, and the name gets thrown around a lot. I've also heard people say good things about TileClad (the stuff they use for garage floors and the like) -- but I have so far failed to find a way to buy that where I am. I got the run around for a few months straight from our local Sherwin-Williams. Whatever paint we use, we'll also probably use it for our bilges.

[kayakerChuck]

Consider replacing your stuffing box hose.

[Orion Jim]

Originally Posted by kayakerChuck

Consider replacing your stuffing box hose.

This is great advice. I’d replace every hose, clean the heat exchanger and replace the seals, and if your exhaust riser is more than five seasons old replace it also.

[scherzoja]

Relocate the oil filter if it's a PIA to reach in its current position, especially if the filter is horizontal. Same with the fuel filter.

[Pete7]

I would pull the heat exchanger apart and clean thoroughly then re assemble with new o rings. Much easier to do slow time as a planned job. Before you launch though pull the water intake valve and check now. Replace with bronze or Tru Design.

Pete

[sinnerman]

As others have stated, change out the stuffing box hose and put new packing in the stuffing box.

You cuold switch to a dripless shaft seal at this time as well (not my personal preference)

Could also be an opportunity to inspect/replace the cutlass bearing if you have one.

Final shaft alignment is done with the boat in the water.

Check the exhaust system, hoses, mixing elbow.

I have a 40 year old (I believe) engine with aging compression, so if I pulled, it I would pull the head and look at the cylinders or maybe even over haul it..

My two cents

Cheers.