Raw Water pump lip seal island repair

[Networker]

Hi all, I’m away from civilization in the islands, will get to civilization in a few weeks. I have the lip seal in my water pump">raw water pump leaking, and will replace it when I get to Puerto Rico. In the meantime, is there a way to seal this up emergency style, temporarily until I get to civilization?

Thank you in advance!

[mike d.]

I would think you have to pull it apart after closing the seacock supply to see what your issue is and go from there no ?

[Bellinghamster]

Raw water pumps typically have a ceramic face seal on the water side, and a lip seal to protect the bearings and/or keep oil in the engine (if they're driven off a timing gear, for example).

If the ceramic seal is leaking water, the cause is usually corroded spring or salt/mineral buildup in the face seal that reduces or eliminates the compressive force between the seal faces. You have to disassemble the pump (remove the shaft, bearings, etc.) to get to it, and doing so may make the leak worse.

If you're leaking raw water due to failed seal, probably not a whole lot you can do out in the wild other than try to direct the water into the bilge and prevent it from spraying all over the engine (i.e. hang or tape a piece of plastic over the pump body) Be very sure it won't get caught in a belt if you do this!

One possible short-term fix would be to pull the impeller and smear waterproof grease around the shaft but this might cause the seal to spin on the shaft and wear grooves in it (the shaft), making the ultimate repair more expensive.

I had a belt-driven raw water pump start leaking badly on a boat I bought in Puerto Vallarta on the way to San Diego - I took the impeller out of it so the engine belts could still be tensioned and plumbed an electric vane pump in its place.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by Networker

Hi all, I’m away from civilization in the islands, will get to civilization in a few weeks. I have the lip seal in my raw water pump leaking, and will replace it when I get to Puerto Rico. In the meantime, is there a way to seal this up emergency style, temporarily until I get to civilization?

Thank you in advance!

There might be,depending on what type of seal is in your pump(lip or ceramic) if you have an oring kit and your pump has a lip seal you might be able to replace the garter spring with an oring that applies a little more pressure to the lip. You might even be able to do this without stripping the pump, just pull the impeller and you should be able to see the garter spring ( or the remains of it)
Pete

[qwert]

There's sure to be another electric water pump in your boat such as the sink etc. Take it out and plumb it in, bypassing the original.


CAUTION...... If you do this make sure you turn the pump off BEFORE you stop the engine, The raw water pump is regulated by the engine, engine stops......pump stops. If its an electric bypass it will carry on and possibly fill the exhaust system and run back into the engine......then you really will have a problem !!

[Celestialsailor]

Is your raw water pump mounted on a bracket, independently driven by a belt ot is it bolted to the timing cover and driven internally...it matters.

[Networker]

Originally Posted by Bellinghamster

Raw water pumps typically have a ceramic face seal on the water side, and a lip seal to protect the bearings and/or keep oil in the engine (if they're driven off a timing gear, for example).

If the ceramic seal is leaking water, the cause is usually corroded spring or salt/mineral buildup in the face seal that reduces or eliminates the compressive force between the seal faces. You have to disassemble the pump (remove the shaft, bearings, etc.) to get to it, and doing so may make the leak worse.

If you're leaking raw water due to failed seal, probably not a whole lot you can do out in the wild other than try to direct the water into the bilge and prevent it from spraying all over the engine (i.e. hang or tape a piece of plastic over the pump body) Be very sure it won't get caught in a belt if you do this!

One possible short-term fix would be to pull the impeller and smear waterproof grease around the shaft but this might cause the seal to spin on the shaft and wear grooves in it (the shaft), making the ultimate repair more expensive.

I had a belt-driven raw water pump start leaking badly on a boat I bought in Puerto Vallarta on the way to San Diego - I took the impeller out of it so the engine belts could still be tensioned and plumbed an electric vane pump in its place.

I wet vacuumed the engine room floors this am, and based off your advice, (will protect the engine block (even blue painters tape won top of the drops on engine?). This should solve it right??

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by qwert

There's sure to be another electric water pump in your boat such as the sink etc. Take it out and plumb it in, bypassing the original.


CAUTION...... If you do this make sure you turn the pump off BEFORE you stop the engine, The raw water pump is regulated by the engine, engine stops......pump stops. If its an electric bypass it will carry on and possibly fill the exhaust system and run back into the engine......then you really will have a problem !!

You can fix that problem by using a relay with the pump powered by the normally closed terminals from the auxiliary terminal on the ignition switch and the coil from the oil pressure switch.

When you turn the ignition on the auxiliary will turn the pump on but when the oil warning light goes on it will power the coil and open the NC terminals on the relay open. When the oil pressure warning light goes off as the engine starts the relay will release allowing the pump to be powered through the NC terminal.

[Networker]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Is your raw water pump mounted on a bracket, independently driven by a belt ot is it bolted to the timing cover and driven internally...it matters.

It’s belt driven, can’t quite tell how it’s mounted, but seems like a simple part: Just metal outside; What’s inside via rebuild kit? I have no parts;, assume I can wait until PR.

An engine guru told me to not worry about the leak, but if I was, to just seal it with 4200 until I get to a place to rebuild or replace the pump. Makes sense to me, was just worried about this unwanted raw water somehow getting into engine, killing itS so the default is to let it leak and not worry. Thoughts?

[Celestialsailor]

Your Guru is correct. If it is mounted as a separate unit, let it leak but keep and eye on the loss and that your temperature does not climb.,..I wonder if someone will tell you to "Toss it in the ocean and get a new one"

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Your Guru is correct. If it is mounted as a separate unit, let it leak but keep and eye on the loss and that your temperature does not climb.,..I wonder if someone will tell you to "Toss it in the ocean and get a new one"

I wouldn't say toss it but I would suggest a new one and a rebuild kit for the old one, which becomes a spare after rebuilding thus guaranteeing that it will never be needed.

[Networker]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Your Guru is correct. If it is mounted as a separate unit, let it leak but keep and eye on the loss and that your temperature does not climb.,..I wonder if someone will tell you to "Toss it in the ocean and get a new one"

Lol, I’m buying a new pump and keeping this one (plus getting 2 rebuild kits as spares). The fix seems to be a $20 part but happy to replace it now so the new one gives me peace of mind, while old one can help when I’m out of luck.

[Networker]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

I wouldn't say toss it but I would suggest a new one and a rebuild kit for the old one, which becomes a spare after rebuilding thus guaranteeing that it will never be needed.

That’s my plan. I almost bought the pump replacement before I left. Figured it can wait; ready to pay and get a rebuild kit as spare now.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Networker

That’s my plan. I almost bought the pump replacement before I left. Figured it can wait; ready to pay and get a rebuild kit as spare now.

Be aware that if it is a lip seal they are readily available from bearing and seal vendors at a fraction of the price marine merchants will charge. Simply replace the garter spring with an appropriate "o" ring and voila, a perfect long term seal.

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by Networker

It’s belt driven, can’t quite tell how it’s mounted, but seems like a simple part: Just metal outside; What’s inside via rebuild kit? I have no parts;, assume I can wait until PR.

An engine guru told me to not worry about the leak, but if I was, to just seal it with 4200 until I get to a place to rebuild or replace the pump. Makes sense to me, was just worried about this unwanted raw water somehow getting into engine, killing itS so the default is to let it leak and not worry. Thoughts?

Not a problem to the operation of the pump however you don't want it getting on the pulley and spraying all over the engine.

Is your engine a yanmar?