Remove perkins 4.108 cylinder liners with screwdriver

[toerail]

Thank you for that post oldcal6skipper, lots of people would like to know that, and I will keep it in mind too.

[toerail]

OK I went to the screwdriver method because i couldnt get enough amps out of my mig to make penetration, it mostly balled up but did apply a lot of heat, but didnt have the effect looking for, I should have gone to get a stick but also afraid Ill weld the liner to the block since I weld kinda deep. Yes the screwdriver method scatched the block, the screwdriver must be tiny, guessing 3/32 tip, and 5 inches long, and I rounded off the back side blade corners that goes toward the block which made scratching much less, i will barely sand it with 360 sandpaper only on the scratch so as not to change bore at all. Not trying to remove scratch. Scratches look kinda like made from a sewing needle run lightly up the bore. Since its a solid forced dry fitted sleeve I dont think it will be a problem. Its not like having cavitation and vibration issues with wet cylinders. Hopefully I wont have to replace the liners for quite a few years, just bearings, pistons and rings and lifters, head gasket and seals next time. Have to replace lifters now, and will put in new valves and springs, and pushrods,

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by toerail

OK I went to the screwdriver method because i couldnt get enough amps out of my mig to make penetration, it mostly balled up but did apply a lot of heat, but didnt have the effect looking for, I should have gone to get a stick but also afraid Ill weld the liner to the block since I weld kinda deep. Yes the screwdriver method scatched the block, the screwdriver must be tiny, guessing 3/32 tip, and 5 inches long, and I rounded off the back side blade corners that goes toward the block which made scratching much less, i will barely sand it with 360 sandpaper only on the scratch so as not to change bore at all. Not trying to remove scratch. Scratches look kinda like made from a sewing needle run lightly up the bore. Since its a solid forced dry fitted sleeve I dont think it will be a problem. Its not like having cavitation and vibration issues with wet cylinders. Hopefully I wont have to replace the liners for quite a few years, just bearings, pistons and rings and lifters, head gasket and seals next time. Have to replace lifters now, and will put in new valves and springs, and pushrods,

Thanks for the update toenail ....and for mentioning that it is possible to mark the parent bore. Is that just the first one or have you done all 4 (or 6). Are you pressing in the new liners or freezing em in?

[toerail]

Oh I did all 4. When I get the rebuild kit in I will freeze the liners, transport one liner at a time out of the freezer to the block in ice water, 32 degrees. Heat the bore with a gas torch maybe propane. Prep the bore with alight coat of oil. Pull out a liner and wipe the outside quickly and oil and hammer in, will see if it works. The new liner cups for pressing are not complete circles and have a problem twisting or pulling into the liner itself. I will be ready with home made press which is a flat stainless bar with a hole, allthread rod, another metal plate on bottom, and press it in if needed, thats how I press in wet liners, will find out. The hard part was getting the old liners removed, I can get them back in. I think. Going to find out. The block should outlast me even if I have to replace the liners several more times.

[toerail]

I have two sizes of home made press allthread, 5/8 inch and a big 1 inch allthread

[skipperpete]

Get the distance between the freezer and the engine block down to the absolute minimum. Any freezer that can easily keep ice cream cold is good, that’s about -15°C
Wear gloves for the transit from fridge to engine and be completely prepared to whack em down if they stick.......but if all goes well they should drop fully in without any help at all. Good luck with the install.

[toerail]

Thanks and Thanks for the info.

[toerail]

update
My rebuild has stopped because I am converting to electric
On the rebuild
I got the liner stuck half way in the parent bore and cracked the liner
hammering on the top
The middle of the liners is where they get stuck because the middle
circumference is greater than than the ends
You cant see that by looking at it

So I could pull it out
A local shop said he would press them at at 75 dollars a hole
I dont think he is going to replace the block if he messes it up

Also there is a hydraulic puller on ebay I think would pull them in or out
but needs a better cup, would have to try it

But this isnt why I am going electric, not the rebuild part

Yes I could press in the liners and continue but time is short
On with other things

[skipperpete]

Reviving an old thread here. Sorry to hear that the liner install and rebuild failed and you lost a set of new sleeves but now you know what works and what definitely does not.
From the start I was solidly against the suggestion that it was ok to chisel out 4-108 liners with a screwdriver mainly because of the risk of block damage but also because a hydraulic press is required to refit the new liners.... so why not just press em out in the first place and avoid chiseling?
Then today I saw a video of a dedicated engine rebuilder actually boring out 4-236 liners on a boring machine until they were .010” thick and peeling them out by hand like sheets of paper to avoid any possibility of damaging the parent bore. Very time consuming, messy and highly accurate operation but for guys who do re sleeves on a daily basis no problem at all.
Good luck with the electric conversion, much quieter than a chattery old Perkins