Right oil for volno penta 2002

[Pete7]

BTW, the 2003 engine has a second bolt which matches your bolt only further back which is used to drain down the block. The bolt you are holding has a second bolt in the end which allows a hose to be attached and then undo to drain the block down.

Worth checking from the manual if the 2002 uses the same bolt or has two like the 2003.

Pete

[deblen]

CYLINDER%20BLOCK%20%20A11.pdf

Originally Posted by arecuk

Ive got another trouble

I was installating alternator ... but I chose wrong post on the engine when tightening the belt and one screw on the engine body broke apart ... see attached screenshot

there is a lot of water coming out of the hole ... could you advise me how to fix it? the thing is that a part of the screw is still inside of the engine body

I believe the engine is fresh water cooled so that might the fresh water, right? or sea water? if fresh water I could dump it out and repair the place ... but what if it is sea water? seacocks are permanently open [plan to clean them but not now]

any ideas welcome ... I was planing first trip today as the alternator was the last thing to hook up ... and know this issue

thanks a lot, tomas

You broke the pipe plug & zinc anode assembly.No big problem.It definitely was not the original plug.
The part that is still inside the block is probably the zinc anode,& it is not required in a fresh water cooled engine.If you can get it out with needle nose pliers-OK.If not,don't worry about it.
You need to find a brass or steel 1/4inch NPT pipe plug.Common in North America,but you may have to check refrigeration supply shops,etc.elsewhere.Same size BSPT British Standard Pipe Taper plug should work also.
Put some pipe dope/thread sealer or teflon tape on threads of new plug & carefully screw plug into the hole by fingers.If threads in hole are still OK,you should be able to screw plug several full turns by fingers.
If you cannot do this,you may need to repair the threads with a 1/4 NPT tap tool.
Be very careful that you get the new plug started straight by fingers.
Once you have it turned in several turns by fingers,use a wrench to tighten it further.The threads on plug are tapered-small at the end & larger as you screw it into hole.Do not overtighten it.The amount that you can apply using your wrist only is plenty.
Refill the engine with automobile radiator antifreeze.Never use just water,except in a temporary emergency.The antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors & lubricant that is required by water pump & engine.It also helps prevent boil over & cools engine better.
If all else fails,I see in pic that you are using the "wood plug" trick.This will work in an emergency,but I would not trust it very long.

With my 2003,I installed a Temp.guage sender in this hole.

Good luck / Len

[arecuk]

first, thanks for comments guys!

second, I took detailed picture and added comments, have look at attachment

>> coolant tank and a fresh water pump
I have not noticed a tank and second pump but I thought I have fresh water cooled engine

>> unused temp sender - might be, see screenshot ... there was no cable attached

the water coming out tastes like fresh water but thats not surprising as Im on the lake ... but a mixture wih coolant like glycerol would be sweet and thats not the case ... the water coming out is clear ... the previous owner the boat neglected so he might use fresh water as coolant, hard to say

I let the hole opened for a while and the stream of water after while vanished and it drops only ... the hole is at the same level as water outside the boat

>> anode bolt
might be anode as well as temp sender, not sure how to distinguish between then ... also, if its anode, whats the purpose of it? do I have to get a new one or regular bolt do the trick too?

Im in Guatemala and its my first boat, hence my basic questions

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Pete7

That looks like the anode bolt which has come out. The anode screws onto a bolt and the whole lot goes into a hole just under the alternator, but that isn't the original bolt.

Chances are that hole is below the level of the sea water on the outside and the engine looks like a sea water cooled version btw. So your in trouble.

I would start by sorting the sea cock out so that at least you can leave the boat afloat without worrying about that bung coming out. Next how much thread is left on that bolt?

Take a good look at the manual to see the shape of the original bolt. If I remember correctly the anode screws into the the thread end of that bolt. So does the bolt have a hole in the end?

Pete

Yes. It looks like the engine anode to me which means you don't have a fresh water cooled engine. I can't see anything broken at all. But you should have quite a flow coming out of the block if you removed it with the seacock open. Is your seacock frozen partially open?

If you have seacocks permanently open you shouldn't be going anywhere far from shore.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by arecuk

first, thanks for comments guys!

second, I took detailed picture and added comments, have look at attachment

>> coolant tank and a fresh water pump
I have not noticed a tank and second pump but I thought I have fresh water cooled engine

>> unused temp sender - might be, see screenshot ... there was no cable attached

the water coming out tastes like fresh water but thats not surprising as Im on the lake ... but a mixture wih coolant like glycerol would be sweet and thats not the case ... the water coming out is clear

>> anode bolt
might be anode as well as temp sender, not sure how to distinguish between then ... also, if its anode, whats the purpose of it? do I have to get a new one or regular bolt do the trick too?

Im in Guatemala and its my first boat, hence my basic questions

Everyone has to start somewhere so it's good your asking.
You definately have a raw water cooled engine, not a fresh water cooled. Where you have taken that out off on a fresh water cooled engine, like mine, is a simple plug only. You can temporarily replace it with a bolt to get going whilst you order a new 'pencil' anode. The idea of the anode is the same as the anodes on your hull. They are sacrificed rather than essential items in your engine. You definately need one though. Yours looks very new.

Fresh water cooled engines have a small water tank the same as you have on a car that you put 'fresh' water plus a mixture of green anti corrosion coolant in.

But, if your thread has broken off 'in' the engine, you need to get that out to even put a plug in it. If it's stripped the thread in the block, the best solution will be to arrange to put a new thread in it. Or possibly even a replacement thread. You can do this with a thing called a 'heli coil' (Google it), but you will definately need to plug it somehow before using your engine again. If your permanently in fresh water you don't have as much a problem as if you were in salt water. The fresh water your in, the lake, would explain why your anode looks so new.

Attached is pretty much what your after as an anode.

[DougR]

Lots of info flowing here, most of it correct......

I'll confirm , as others have said, your engine is salt water cooled. There is no circulation pump, Heat exchanger or expansion tank, and the sea water pump is pushing water directly into the cylinder head...thus salt water cooled. On the salt water cooled 2002 engines the zinc anode is located in the front of the cylinder head. You can see the hex head of the anode holder in the picture right beside the fuel filter. The opening with the broken fitting was used for different things depending on the engine model and vintage. On the 2002 for a time the port was used to take hot water to a house hot water heater. Later 2002 engines didn't use the opening for anything except a drain. 2003 engines also had various uses for the port depending on salt/ fresh water cooled, etc. So......either put a zinc in the opening as already described or plug the opening if you have a zinc in the head.

Looking at your picture, you have correctly identified the various senders: the tach sender is just above the oil fill with two grey wires or a grey and grey/ black, the sender above the oil filter boss is the oil pressure alarm switch, the sender in the side of the cylinder head with the brown/white wire is the temp
alarm switch.

DougR

[arecuk]

clear enough guys, thanks a lot

btw, in my case, the broken screw was holding the original mechanical temp sender, not in use anymore

[mike d.]

If you break a hacksaw blade to look like a knife, straight on the cutting edge side and tapered at the top, you can gently cut through most of what's left of the brass thread. Stop when you see the color change from yellow(brass) to silver (steel). Do it in 2 or 3 places and you, and you should be able to pick out the remnants with out damage to the threads of the block. Then put a bronze plug in there sealed with pipe thread compound. I know you are In Guatemala, but you should be able to find something same or similar. The only other alternative would be to thread whats left of the brass thread left in there and put a plug in that, but that would be a scary fix!

[Rustic Charm]

Just to be clear, as your engine is raw water cooled, you need that zinc in your block. So whatever you do to temporarily get going, you shouldn't leave it too long before doing a permanent fix with replacing the anode.