Stop Lever on D1-30F regulator

[KER OZENN]

Hi, I'm french and I'm getting in trouble with the stop lever of D1-30-F. ... It was hard to actuate and after having unscrewed it.. I may have done something wrong because it's moving now but not working, even leads the engine to increase RPM.. Any idea ? Do I have to disassemble a lot to fix it ? Thanks.

On the only exploded view I have I can't see to what is connected the #19 lever

François

[DougR]

Stop lever #12 is activated by hand or by the stop cable. #12 is connected to #19 inside the timing case as they are both mounted on a common shaft.

When #12 is pulled by the stop cable, #19 rotates and presses on a tab on #25, and pushes #25 forward until it comes to a stop against an aluminum tab cast into the inside of the timing case.

The rear most part of #25 ( left side of the drawing by the hole and retaining clip) is connected directly to the injection pump fuel rack. When lever #12 is activated, #19 pushes #25 forward, and that pulls the fuel rack into the “no fuel” position and the engine shuts off.


I don’t know what happened when you removed the lever #12 from the shaft, perhaps it was reinstalled 180* out of position, or #19 has been able to move out of position.

Another option is that sometimes when an engine has sat for a long time and the injection pump has gotten gummed up, the lever #12 won’t move because the fuel rack won’t move. If #12 is forced it can bend the tab on #25, and then the engine won’t idle down and sometimes cannot be stopped with the stop lever.

Most of the time these problems require the removal of the front timing cover to correct, but you might be able to see something thru the oil fill opening.

[skipperpete]

DougR really knows his VP D1-30, very well stated description of the governor and fuel pump operation.
Here’s a photo of the other end of lever 19 and the little thin plate it pushes on to shut down the engine

[KER OZENN]

Hi DouG And Skipperpete

So many thanks for your precious replies.

The engine is running every week. My trouble occurred after the oil change when testing the alternate stop (no cable). In fact this stop lever had never been actuated before : painting was all around the #16 spring. I usually use the stop in the control panel that actuate a solenoid.


I’ll look for a dentist mirror to check via the oil fill opening. That would be nice if I can avoid removing front timing cover .. injection pump...

What is sure is that I haven’t felt the tab actuated by the stop lever with my fingers via the opening.

I fear using my engine as it is now in case a spring falls or the regulator jammed and goes in high rpm ... can you tell me to what are connected springs #32 and #29 ?

I will go to my boat in a few days, I’ll tell you.

spkipperpete, your picture comes from a similar engine, right ? Because I can’t see the oil fill opening on it ?


Again, many thanks !

Francois

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by KER OZENN

Hi DouG And Skipperpete

So many thanks for your precious replies.

The engine is running every week. My trouble occurred after the oil change when testing the alternate stop (no cable). In fact this stop lever had never been actuated before : painting was all around the #16 spring. I usually use the stop in the control panel that actuate a solenoid.


I’ll look for a dentist mirror to check via the oil fill opening. That would be nice if I can avoid removing front timing cover .. injection pump...

What is sure is that I haven’t felt the tab actuated by the stop lever with my fingers via the opening.

I fear using my engine as it is now in case a spring falls or the regulator jammed and goes in high rpm ... can you tell me to what are connected springs #32 and #29 ?

I will go to my boat in a few days, I’ll tell you.

spkipperpete, your picture comes from a similar engine, right ? Because I can’t see the oil fill opening on it ?


Again, many thanks !

Francois

Yes Francois, similar engine. Your D1-130 is a Volvo marinisation of one of a range of Shibaura industrial engines. My one is the earlier MD2030 but all Shibaura (pre electronic) share the same governor type . I like the addition of the oil filler above the governor, you might very well be able to able to adjust the contact plate to reclaim the idle speed.
A word of warning.
If DougR is correct about the fuel control rack being part of the problem you do risk the chance of an uncontrolled overspeed so be prepared to either block off the air intake or to open the injector lines.... a runaway happens surprisingly quickly and can damage your engine terminally.
Pete.

[KER OZENN]

Hello,

Thank everyone , thanks to your advises and pictures I was able to replace the lever on the right side of the #19 part ! Everything is fine now. Thanks again.
François