Suzuki DF 9.9 runs then not

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by lestersails

Hi all
I did the reset by pulling kill switch button thrice. Started it up and red light flashing immediately. Revved it for a couple mins and then red light flashing changed to solid red light on. Engine is clearly missing. I am thinking it is not capn bills h block cooling problem because flashing light came on immediately. Also when I test temp of water spilling from around motor flusher and out of rear of prop it is warmer than source water.

Is this a pull start or electric start?
And a pump stream, was there?
On the chance it's set up differently, try this,
Key on, or power on, remove the lanyard, push the start/stop button 3 times, replace the lanyard, it's a possible fly by wire reset procedure.heres a link.
https://www.google.com/search?q=code...&client=safari
Also this list of codes include the limp mode code conditions for soft and hard fault codes.

As to your question about it the impeller install.
The engine input shaft is rotated CW as you push the impeller housing upon it.
A little squirt of dish liquid is great for slipping the impeller housing over it.
And , YES those fins on the impeller all go the same way, sometimes if improperly installed it'll pump water but it's not a full stream pressure, and you'll find 1 impeller blade facing the opposite direction.

Remove and recheck if you don't think you installed correctly.

In either case you'll need that code scan, it can be reset there as well.
There is an issue as you've gleaned.
Sorry I don't have a source for a cable or PC.
Boatyarddog

[lestersails]

Hi All
Another couple of updates.
1. I removed the bottom unit. I carefully slid the water pump housing up and peeked under before it was mostly off of the impeller. All of the vanes seemed to be correctly seated for clockwise shaft rotation. Just to be safe - I removed it fully, re-lubed a bit, and re-seated it with the clockwise rotation of the shaft.
1.A. Here is a scary thing. When I dropped the lower unit there were several large (>1/2 inch long) of what looked to be flakes of thin, heavily rusted metal. I am very much hoping this is not a sign of Capn Bills warning about corrosion!
2. I pulled the injectors. They looked pristine by visual inspection from the outside. I did not test them because I don't have the electronic gadget to do that.
3. I pulled the fuel pump. I (badly) disassembled it but the bottom line here is that I am pretty sure this is bad news. One of the four screws holding the cover on the pump was badly rusted. Rust was leaking out of that cover joint and onto the rubber harness that holds the pump. It looks like to me that the pump has significant internal rust as well. I will try to upload a picture to show you. Obviously, some water got in there some time. I have a pump on order and will get that in and let you know what happens.
3.A. Seeing that rust inside the fuel pump makes me concerned that little bits of rust could be on the inside of the injectors. Fuel injector cleaner will not clear rust, I assume. Can one backflush injectors or do they have to be replaced?
I guess my next move is to get that new pump in and then run it with that and see if the problem is corrected.
Unfortunately, I did not see BYD's suggestion on pushing the stop button until after I had left the marina. So that is to be done on the next trip as well!

[Rumrace]

Sounded like fuel starvation. You can clean the injectors with a quick dip in CLR then coat in fuel. Replace the fuel feed lines they sound perforated or at least full of flakes.
Change your oil filter if you have not. Rust particles in the combustion chamber cause blow by especially with the cylinder compressed and parked. Lead to barrel and ring failures.

[lestersails]

Trying to upload photos. One of injectors and one of interior of fuel pump.

[Rumrace]

I’m just looking at Suzuki schematic for fuel system. The Vapour canister is worth 450$ and can be cleaned. There are instructions on you tube.
I would open the schematic under their web site and pick out the lines and a new pump.
I’m looking for a Fram platinum filter to fit your motor. It has tiny particles of Teflon which fill scratches.

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

Is this a pull start or electric start?
And a pump stream, was there?

Hey BYD - it is an electric start and with electric tilt (yes, I know, overkill and heavy for an auxiliary for a 22 foot boat).
yes the pump stream (which I have now learned is called a telltale - which I thought was only a sail air flow indicator!)

[Fbfisher]

When my Mercury 9.9 would run well for a bit then bog down and only run at low rpm is was an overheating problem.

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by Fbfisher

When my Mercury 9.9 would run well for a bit then bog down and only run at low rpm is was an overheating problem.

Thanks! And was the diagnosis impeller or Capn Bill's head/block corrosion issue or ???

[Lightwave99]

We bought a Suzuki 20hp long leg to power our 37 foot catamaran when we need power and thought this would be a big step up from our 9.9 Yamaha. Not so! It quit for no apparent reason twice, and the last time luckily was only about 1/4 mile away from our marina. We tried everything but could not get it to start. We kept it meticulously, used non-ethanal gas, etc., did absolutely everything we could do. I cannot provide you the details because my husband did the work. Ultimately, we returned it to the Suzuki dealer and got about 3/4 of our original price back, because we have to have an engine we can rely on. Sometimes we are coming into our home dock on the river and the current is really strong and if the engine quit then, we would hit other boats. Or we could be in a channel with a lee shore and not enough wind to sail, and we would end up on the rocks.

You get the picture.

Bottom line: our conclusion was that Suzuki's specialty is motorcycles, not outboards. They really do not have the years of history and expertise of Yamaha, and other manufacturers like that. We would never go back to a Suzuki.

[BBill]

From what I can find the red light on this Suzuki is for oil pressure. It flashes briefly when engine is first started and then goes out. Staying on means lack of oil pressure. My 2 Tohatsu engines also flash briefly only when first started and when shut down. I just bought a new Suzuki DF60A outboard and the code reset is the same as posted already but it has the C10 gauge that gives codes instead of a red light.

I would say take it to a dealer and have him read the codes. It's a one minute plug and play deal and way more user friendly than swapping parts. Might be an oil pressure sensor acting up and going to limp mode and shut down .

[Fbfisher]

I think it may have been a thermostat.

[BBill]

Originally Posted by Lightwave99

We bought a Suzuki 20hp long leg to power our 37 foot catamaran when we need power and thought this would be a big step up from our 9.9 Yamaha. Not so! It quit for no apparent reason twice, and the last time luckily was only about 1/4 mile away from our marina. We tried everything but could not get it to start. We kept it meticulously, used non-ethanal gas, etc., did absolutely everything we could do. I cannot provide you the details because my husband did the work. Ultimately, we returned it to the Suzuki dealer and got about 3/4 of our original price back, because we have to have an engine we can rely on. Sometimes we are coming into our home dock on the river and the current is really strong and if the engine quit then, we would hit other boats. Or we could be in a channel with a lee shore and not enough wind to sail, and we would end up on the rocks.

You get the picture.

Bottom line: our conclusion was that Suzuki's specialty is motorcycles, not outboards. They really do not have the years of history and expertise of Yamaha, and other manufacturers like that. We would never go back to a Suzuki.

What did your dealer say the problem was? I researched long and hard before buying a new Suzuki and found SeaTow and TowBoatsUS around Florida are using Suzuki engines. Same with many guides and commercial guys now. Suzuki has been building outboards since the 1960s/70s so aren't exactly new kids on the block. Mine just turned 35 hrs so we will see how it goes, fingers crossed.

[nofacey]

Friggin Suzuki 4 stroke…..I carried a DF 15 around the world, could count on it plugging up at least 2x a year. Changed tank, fuel line, installed inline filter, never used old fuel.
Sold it, bought an old 2 stroke - cleaning plugs once a year is easssyy compared to getting into that buried Suzuki fuel system.

[hirondeller]

The OP asked if injectors can be serviced. Happily, the answer is Yes! There are several shops where you can mail in gasoline injectors, they are put on a test stand and the 'breaking pressure' and spray pattern are analyzed for proper function. Typically they don't go bad, they are just clogged, this can definitely happen if the injectors ingested water, (it sounds like yours did). The injector shop can cycle cleaners (under pressure) through an injector until the spray pattern and correct breaking pressure are restored.



Here is one sample link: https://www.mrinjector.us/


Typically this service is cheaper than buying a new injector. There are many serial components in the Suzuki 9.9 EFI fuel system. Starting at the tank and fuel line, rubber bulb, lift pump, high pressure pump, fuel filter you should consider disassembly and cleaning all of it, lots of work but not too much in terms of $$$ for a DIYer.



Best wishes, if you try an injector cleaning service let us know how it worked out.

[Captain Bill]

On a cold engine the indicator light stays on for a few seconds at start-up, then goes out. If it comes back on after a few minutes which could be as much as 10 at idle/low rpm to a minute or less under high rpm and the engine running very rough it has gone into limp home mode. It will run in limp home mode for 3 minutes then stop. It will restart and run for about 30 second at what seems like normal at least at idle and/or run in limp home mode for another 3 minutes before shutting down. If it follows this pattern it is overheating. The light has only two functions, oil pressure and temperature. Temperature can have two modes that trigger it. Absolute temperature and rate of temperature increase. I know this because that is what the diagnostic software told me when the block was clogged. If you remove the thermostat you will find crystals coating the back of it and also on the zinc if you remove that. This is a key indicator that the cooling passages are clogged. I know large Suzuki's are very popular and I have not heard of this problem on them. I suspect it has something to do with the size of the cooling passages and the alloy they use. Does anyone know if large Suzukies have a warning in the manual about using them in salt water?