Tohatsu 6hp sailpro spares?

[SVSOLITAIRE]

Hi, I’m sailing an Alberg 30, I have removed the inboard and built an outboard well. I have a Tohatsu 6 hp sailpro extra long shaft 25” 6 amp alternator. This outboard is my main motor for the boat. Although I only use it in and out of marinas. So I would say it’s light use but definitely want it to work in a pinch. That being said I am not too familiar with outboards in general. I have been looking up spares lists for outboards but was wondering if anyone could give a more realistic spares list specifically concerning the tohatsu? Or if there is an existing spares thread concerning outboards that would be helpful too. I am live aboard/full time cruising currently in Florida making my way to Caribbean so cold weather is currently not a concern as it pertains to the motor.

[Paul L]

The Tohatsu carbs are reasonably priced and most likely to cause a problem. They are quick to change out, then you can clean the other one at your leisure. Water pump impeller. Spare prop. Spare fuel connector with squeeze pump.

[SVSOLITAIRE]

Thanks Paul. Wasn’t thinking of an extra carb.

[Jammer]

I have a 9.9 hp Tohatsu long shaft.


Here is what I would suggest:


* Spark plugs

* Gaskets and membrane for fuel pump
* Carb to intake gasket (o-ring style; ordinarily these can be reused but they're small and cheap)
* Carb bowl gasket (same)
* Fuel filter, either complete assembly or bowl, seal, and screen
* internal fuel lines and clips, can skip these if recently replaced
* Spare stop switch lanyard and clip
* Spare fuel line assembly from motor to tank, can skip if recently replaced
* Starter rope (can skip if electric start and the recoil is only used rarely)
* Gearcase drain plug (easy to lose)
* Spare propshaft seal. Mine uses an assembly that includes the bearing. (easily damaged by fishing line but may be an expensive spare)

* Propeller washer, nut, and cotter pin
* Spare propeller (big and expensive, skip if that's a problem)

* Water pump impeller, housing, wear plate, shaft seal, and rubber outlet washer
* Water pump woodruff key (easy to lose)


Usually the carb can be cleaned, and it's unusual for them to fail on a regularly run motor, so I wouldn't necessarily bring a spare carb.


Ignition coils, module, etc are more likely to fail than the carb but make an expensive set of spares if you get everything. You need a puller and large wrench to get the flywheel off to replace them. Still good to have in case you need a shop in a remote area to replace them.


If you depend on the alternator I would carry a spare diode assembly.

[thomm225]

I have a 2011 Mercury 5hp 4 stroke 25" extra long shaft outboard on my Bristol 27.

I bought the engine new in 2011.

So in 9 years, I have replaced the impeller maybe 4X.

Engine and lower unit oil 9X.

Fuel filter 1X.

Spark plug 1X.

Flushed the engine maybe 12X.

Greased 7X.

Spares onboard are integral/external tank switch.

The old spark plug that I replaced. It's the spare now.

Impeller.

Fuel filter.

I put Stabil in the gas that is left over for the Winter and use that in the Spring.

I have a leech line holding out my stop switch. Lost the real "thingy."

My outboard is pull start only and no alternator. My power comes from solar. No control lines etc either. I don't want that crap cluttering up the boat.

The outboard is the auxiliary power on my boat so if it were to fail that wouldn't be that big a deal

[SVSOLITAIRE]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I have a 9.9 hp Tohatsu long shaft.


Here is what I would suggest:


* Spark plugs

* Gaskets and membrane for fuel pump
* Carb to intake gasket (o-ring style; ordinarily these can be reused but they're small and cheap)
* Carb bowl gasket (same)
* Fuel filter, either complete assembly or bowl, seal, and screen
* internal fuel lines and clips, can skip these if recently replaced
* Spare stop switch lanyard and clip
* Spare fuel line assembly from motor to tank, can skip if recently replaced
* Starter rope (can skip if electric start and the recoil is only used rarely)
* Gearcase drain plug (easy to lose)
* Spare propshaft seal. Mine uses an assembly that includes the bearing. (easily damaged by fishing line but may be an expensive spare)

* Propeller washer, nut, and cotter pin
* Spare propeller (big and expensive, skip if that's a problem)

* Water pump impeller, housing, wear plate, shaft seal, and rubber outlet washer
* Water pump woodruff key (easy to lose)


Usually the carb can be cleaned, and it's unusual for them to fail on a regularly run motor, so I wouldn't necessarily bring a spare carb.


Ignition coils, module, etc are more likely to fail than the carb but make an expensive set of spares if you get everything. You need a puller and large wrench to get the flywheel off to replace them. Still good to have in case you need a shop in a remote area to replace them.


If you depend on the alternator I would carry a spare diode assembly.

Heck yeah! That was very informative and I appreciate you taking the time to differentiate essential spares from luxury spares. Thank you

[Boatguy30]

For long term cruising you should have a spare motor for the dinghy. Same power head or have a complete set of electrics including the exciter coil. Obviously a spare high thrust prop also I'd guess the thrust rubber isn't going to last too long pushing a boat like that.

[GordMay]

Manuals:
Service ➥ http://www.tohatsu.pl/wp-content/upl...4B-5B-6B_E.pdf
Parts ➥ https://tohatsuoutboards.net/resourc...parts-manuals/

[zstine]

The fuel pumps in the 9.8 Tohatsu are notorious for failing. The diaphragm fails and allows fuel into the oil, since they are driven off the cam. If the 6hp has the same type of pump, I would carry a spare fuel pump.... I have gone through 2 pumps in the 7 years I've had mine.

Carb rebuild kit, spark plug, impeller.

[Daniel Grant]

I would have several fiber gaskets for the foot oil screws. They should not b reused. It is not worth the risk of getting seawater in the foot to save a few dimes. I think all the other needed spare parts were mentioned.

[Gneiss]

Additionally an external inline fuel filter/water separator

[letoile]

We have the same motor and use it for the same purpose...in and out of the harbour. The lists provided are all inclusive and I can't add much to them other than to recommend removing the rubber valve from the underside of your gas cap on your portable tank. A pair of pliers and a pull and twist will potentially save you many hours of frustration. This rubber valve is supposed to decrease/stop gasing off from the tank. On our tank it would not release any pressure at all which resulting in the tank becoming over pressurized in the sun and flooding the engine and/or creating a vaccum that would not allow fuel flow and causing engine stalling. This remedy was recommended by a local Tohatsu mechanic and has allowed us to use it with confindence. Its still environmentally sound if you close the manual threaded twist valve when not in use like on the old tanks.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by letoile

We have the same motor and use it for the same purpose...in and out of the harbour. The lists provided are all inclusive and I can't add much to them other than to recommend removing the rubber valve from the underside of your gas cap on your portable tank. A pair of pliers and a pull and twist will potentially save you many hours of frustration. This rubber valve is supposed to decrease/stop gasing off from the tank. On our tank it would not release any pressure at all which resulting in the tank becoming over pressurized in the sun and flooding the engine and/or creating a vaccum that would not allow fuel flow and causing engine stalling. This remedy was recommended by a local Tohatsu mechanic and has allowed us to use it with confindence. Its still environmentally sound if you close the manual threaded twist valve when not in use like on the old tanks.

thats a good tip thanks.
I'd imagine it would cause frustration & such an easy fix.

[Daniel Grant]

I had one of the new tanks in the shade in coastal Georgia and it got so much pressure it emptied the tank through the connection. I have seen pictures of very swollen and deformed tanks from these new Government required tanks. They were designed to keep gas fumes from being released into the air. If I had had that tank in my boat I would have had 3 gallons of gasoline in my bilge. That is far more dangerous than fumes released into the air.

[Peter1949]

Great tips
I’ll just add to Use non ethanol if you can purchase it at a gas station.
Pure gas.com has a list by states where you can purchase non ethanol
Will difinetly help the carb problem most small hp motors have